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Johnny · 20-08-2006

Thanks a lot for your positive comments guys!

Building in paper is in my opinion a lot different than building in plastic.
Plasticbuilds are more of assemble the build and then the work starts with coloring,weathering,building dioramas etc etc, in paperbuilds you have to build each part, then assemble, so the building is what takes most of the time.Coloring and sometimes weathering is already done.
Since the model comes in "books" with parts and instructions, I have found that to do a scan of the book is the best way to do it, and leave the book untouched.....so if I make a mistake, I can just print the part again.The paperthickness I use is from 80g to 170g.I try to find paper that is similar to the thickness in the book.On 80g paper I print the parts that is to be glued without color to karton, typical building the structure of something and where the parts doesnt show, and for the parts that is for rolling into cylinders, typical is axels and other tube parts.karton is not easy to get here in Norway, so I had to get mine from germany and Poland.The thickest karton I could find that was suitable for paperbuilds was 0,9mm and that is useless, since the parts is typical 0,2mm, 0,5mm and 1,0mm and combinations of theese.

next step on the kübel was the sides of the vehicle.
The inside , below the doors was made of 2 pieces of 1,5mm karton glued to eachother. No drawing for this operation, just the numbers on the parts.So I'm just showing the finished result.The total thickness on the side is now 4mm and it was a bit hard to bend into the right angle.The floor is going to be placed between the sides.

Making of the floor....was more work than I expected.There was a lot of parts to be laminated onto 0,5mm and 1mm karton

The drawing

And the parts cutted out (most of them)

The floor is quite huge with a lot of small "strips" that took ages to edgepaint.Just kidding

but edgepainting is vital in such builds to not have white edges on the parts.

The underside and the part with the kardan tunnell

For the floor strips I used 1mm balsa and A lot of narrow strips was to be cut out.
I decided to use woodstrips on the floor as it's supposed to be.
here I have cutted out small strips of 1mm balsa wood and are removing the space between the ribs.

I was satisfied with the result.Half floor done....

Put the floor into place just to see how it looks

The floor is finished.It took some time to make this, but it was worth the extra effort

The drawing of the top of the floor.

All wooden strips in place

So I had to make the small paperroundings.each one is made of two small paperstrips, inside and outside

And here are the finished floor

Continuing with the engine room next time.

20-08-2006	#8 (permalink)
Johnny Cardmodeller Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Odda Norway Real Name: Johnny My Models: Papermodels Visit Johnny's Gallery Posts: 415 Images: 19	Thanks a lot for your positive comments guys! Building in paper is in my opinion a lot different than building in plastic. Plasticbuilds are more of assemble the build and then the work starts with coloring,weathering,building dioramas etc etc, in paperbuilds you have to build each part, then assemble, so the building is what takes most of the time.Coloring and sometimes weathering is already done. Since the model comes in "books" with parts and instructions, I have found that to do a scan of the book is the best way to do it, and leave the book untouched.....so if I make a mistake, I can just print the part again.The paperthickness I use is from 80g to 170g.I try to find paper that is similar to the thickness in the book.On 80g paper I print the parts that is to be glued without color to karton, typical building the structure of something and where the parts doesnt show, and for the parts that is for rolling into cylinders, typical is axels and other tube parts.karton is not easy to get here in Norway, so I had to get mine from germany and Poland.The thickest karton I could find that was suitable for paperbuilds was 0,9mm and that is useless, since the parts is typical 0,2mm, 0,5mm and 1,0mm and combinations of theese. next step on the kübel was the sides of the vehicle. The inside , below the doors was made of 2 pieces of 1,5mm karton glued to eachother. No drawing for this operation, just the numbers on the parts.So I'm just showing the finished result.The total thickness on the side is now 4mm and it was a bit hard to bend into the right angle.The floor is going to be placed between the sides. Making of the floor....was more work than I expected.There was a lot of parts to be laminated onto 0,5mm and 1mm karton The drawing And the parts cutted out (most of them) The floor is quite huge with a lot of small "strips" that took ages to edgepaint.Just kidding but edgepainting is vital in such builds to not have white edges on the parts. The underside and the part with the kardan tunnell For the floor strips I used 1mm balsa and A lot of narrow strips was to be cut out. I decided to use woodstrips on the floor as it's supposed to be. here I have cutted out small strips of 1mm balsa wood and are removing the space between the ribs. I was satisfied with the result.Half floor done.... Put the floor into place just to see how it looks The floor is finished.It took some time to make this, but it was worth the extra effort The drawing of the top of the floor. All wooden strips in place So I had to make the small paperroundings.each one is made of two small paperstrips, inside and outside And here are the finished floor Continuing with the engine room next time.