Scale Models - View Single Post

**Bunkerbarge** · 20-02-2008

Firstly a warm welcome to the forum Alan, I hope you find us informative and interesting.

Firstly wood glue, I always use a PVA based wood glue, which can be purchased from B&Q under thier own name or the good old "Resin W" brand. It is the thick white stuff which can be obtained in a waterproof version. The great beauty is that is soaks into the wood and forms a joint far stronger than the wood, can be watered down and brushed on for detail and intricate work and dries clear. I also use it for making deck caulking because it is tremendously versatile.

As for bonding the wood to the fibreglass, you could use cyano, gell would be better to fill in the undulations and surface imperfections but I would use a two part epoxy such as araldite. The rapis stuff isn't supposed to be waterproof but I think when covered with paint, resin or varnish it will do the job. the safer option is the normal cure stuff but you will have to leave it at least overnight to get a good bond.

As for speed controllers I would definately go for an electronic one. They are lighter, more reliable and can be purchased with built in thermal protection. Two popular varieties are Mtronics solid state ones or Electronise which are supposed to be repairable. I have both and the deciding factor is quite often how much room you have in the boat.

As for batteries, you will have to tailor it to your model and motor. A higher voltage will give you more speed etc but it depends on the motor, prop etc. as to what suits best. The biggest dictating factor will be ballast so when you have decided on what voltage you want, 12v, 9.6 or 7.2 depending on number of cells you will then want to experiment to see how big a battery you need to give you the right ballast whilst giving you the maximum duration.

There is never a quick fix easy answer to these questions, you will have to experiment and make your own decisions. Put the hull and propulsion together and experiment in the bath with differrent voltages. Don't forget these boats were fast and you will need to get up enough speed for it to plane correctly, so that has to be part of the ballast thinking. I've seen a lot of pondside experiments with these models over the years and they are not easy to set up correctly but keep trying, leave your interior with enough space to give yourself options and be prepared to mess around for a while until you get it how you want it.

20-02-2008	#2 (permalink)
Bunkerbarge Moderator Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Halifax, Yorks: Nassau, Bahama's:Port Canaveral, USA: and all points in between. Real Name: Richard My Models: Robbe U-47, Deans Marine Cossack, Steam Coaster, Revell U-Boat, Motorcycles. Visit Bunkerbarge's Gallery Posts: 3,715 Images: 230	Firstly a warm welcome to the forum Alan, I hope you find us informative and interesting. Firstly wood glue, I always use a PVA based wood glue, which can be purchased from B&Q under thier own name or the good old "Resin W" brand. It is the thick white stuff which can be obtained in a waterproof version. The great beauty is that is soaks into the wood and forms a joint far stronger than the wood, can be watered down and brushed on for detail and intricate work and dries clear. I also use it for making deck caulking because it is tremendously versatile. As for bonding the wood to the fibreglass, you could use cyano, gell would be better to fill in the undulations and surface imperfections but I would use a two part epoxy such as araldite. The rapis stuff isn't supposed to be waterproof but I think when covered with paint, resin or varnish it will do the job. the safer option is the normal cure stuff but you will have to leave it at least overnight to get a good bond. As for speed controllers I would definately go for an electronic one. They are lighter, more reliable and can be purchased with built in thermal protection. Two popular varieties are Mtronics solid state ones or Electronise which are supposed to be repairable. I have both and the deciding factor is quite often how much room you have in the boat. As for batteries, you will have to tailor it to your model and motor. A higher voltage will give you more speed etc but it depends on the motor, prop etc. as to what suits best. The biggest dictating factor will be ballast so when you have decided on what voltage you want, 12v, 9.6 or 7.2 depending on number of cells you will then want to experiment to see how big a battery you need to give you the right ballast whilst giving you the maximum duration. There is never a quick fix easy answer to these questions, you will have to experiment and make your own decisions. Put the hull and propulsion together and experiment in the bath with differrent voltages. Don't forget these boats were fast and you will need to get up enough speed for it to plane correctly, so that has to be part of the ballast thinking. I've seen a lot of pondside experiments with these models over the years and they are not easy to set up correctly but keep trying, leave your interior with enough space to give yourself options and be prepared to mess around for a while until you get it how you want it. __________________ “Dirty British coaster with a salt-caked smoke stack, Butting through the Channel in the mad March days"