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rkapuaala · 27-05-2008

I drew up these shop drawings for the casements prior to milling up the wood.

I test fitted the first casement into the sides to make sure I was moving in the right direction and then moved on to the sash.

I used 1/32" styrene laminated to 1/64" Koa for the sash. The purest in me hated doing that, but the 3/64" Koa sash was just too fragile so I figured since the outside was paint grade, I shouldn't have any problems with using styrene from an esthetic point of view.

I used modeling clay for the glazing putty and acetate for the windows.
They cleaned up great with a little alchol and a cotton swab.

So I moved on to adding the letterboard, trim and casings to the side. The image above shows me testing the ends with the sides in place.

27-05-2008	#2 (permalink)
rkapuaala Scale Model Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: Central Coast California Real Name: Richard My Models: 1:20.32 Trains, H.O. Brass, model ships, canoes and planes. Visit rkapuaala's Gallery Posts: 18 Images: 24	Moving on to the window casements. I drew up these shop drawings for the casements prior to milling up the wood. I test fitted the first casement into the sides to make sure I was moving in the right direction and then moved on to the sash. I used 1/32" styrene laminated to 1/64" Koa for the sash. The purest in me hated doing that, but the 3/64" Koa sash was just too fragile so I figured since the outside was paint grade, I shouldn't have any problems with using styrene from an esthetic point of view. I used modeling clay for the glazing putty and acetate for the windows. They cleaned up great with a little alchol and a cotton swab. So I moved on to adding the letterboard, trim and casings to the side. The image above shows me testing the ends with the sides in place.