wonwinglo

No need to do that chaps an over complication,the Johnsons seals against the edges nicely and slightly darkens the edge,even with larger scales you will not notice it,masking tape cut so thinly has remarkable curvature properties.
The danger of cutting then painting is that no matter how careful you are the paint will creep underneath,you need all the adhesion possible at these widths,once the Johnsons has cured the adhesive will probably degrade over time but good old Johnsons makes a good key against the plastic.
Someone is even marketing a similar thing to this in America,all it is,is the pre cut tape ! and by the way the best cutting edge that you will get hold of is one of those industrial hacksaw blades,the teeth which go either way stop the rule from sliding,any small engineering firm will throw them out when worn,go forth and salvage,they are so useful for cutting narrow strips of wood,film,plasticard etc etc.

__________________
'And there I was oil on my goggles from a broken pipe,then I looked at the altimeter,all I could see was the makers name !'
www.wonwinglo.scale-models.net/

Bunkerbarge

I have never even tried the Johnsons Clear yet!!

I have so may things to play with when I get home.

Nigel.D

Right folks !!! cannopy masking is an art in itself !!! there are numerous ways to achieve this . One is thin strips of masking tape 2 is using copydex and tape (this is my prefered method if you spray the interior clour first it shows thru on the inside) 3 metal foil this can give really sharp lines but is a buggar to clean the adhesive off! Do not repeat do not attempt to hand paint it doesnt work and can spoil an otherwise perfect model!!!!! I think i can hear a tutorial coming on lol

Pogo

Try filling in the space between the canopy frames with PVA . Its easy to remove and leaves no residue.

5thelement

Thanks for all the tips...just need to decide what to do now lol hmm

Is Humbrol Maskol worth buying?

wonwinglo

***It is just latex,I use Copydex it does exactly the same job,do not apply it with your best brushes ! use a rubber 'artists colour shaper' tool obtainable from your local art shop,it has a shaped rubber tip,you can easily roll off the latex when finished,this stuff will wreck brushes in seconds.

__________________
'And there I was oil on my goggles from a broken pipe,then I looked at the altimeter,all I could see was the makers name !'
www.wonwinglo.scale-models.net/

Nigel.D

If your using copy dex on canopys use a tooth pick to apply it is tailor made for the job

5thelement

In the end i persevered with masking tape, cutting tiny strips with a razor blade/scalpel and carefully placing them into position, i got all the glass panels covered pretty well (i hope!) and i've painted it now, so i'll keep my fingers crossed and post a picture when i remove the tape

*praying it looks atleast half decent* lol

Bunkerbarge

I'm looking forward to seeing this. I can't remember the last time I did an aircraft canopy but I would guess it would be in the region of 30 years.

Nowadays I glue a few pieces of wood to a plywood bulkhead and "Voila!" bridge windows.

I am looking forward to having a play with new techniques such as Decal solutions, Johnsons Kleer, and airbrushing with my Tamiya Spit.

5thelement

Well it's done, and i'd be lying if i said i wasn't a bit disapointed, it's far from perfect and could be better, im just trying to look at it like "it could be worse!"

I obviously never masked it too well, and for some reason some small bits of masking tape seemed to turn all gooey and proved a bit difficult to remove again.

I'll post some pictures up later (need to go out right now) but they're kind of embarassing up close lol

Oh well, guess i'll put it down to experience and hope the next time turns out better.