Airbrush arrived, some advice needed! - Page 3

**Bunkerbarge** · 18-05-2006

Another possibility is to bind the hose end with wire removed from some household flex.

Strip it and remove some of the copper strands then bind it tightly around the end of the hose, ensuring it seals on the nipple. The loose ends should be twisted together and then further tightened with a pair of pliers.

By the way the pictures are excellent, well done!

rjwood_uk · 18-05-2006

the good old water trick always works!!!

bin doing it since i was a kid to find out where punctures where on my bikes inner-tubes!

5thelement · 18-05-2006

Well, i've got a little further forward...i just went and wrapped bluetac all around the connection where its screwed on, and its pretty much stopped the leak, until i cover the other end of the hose, which obviously makes the pressure go up and it starts leaking again, but it doesnt seem as bad, but still too bad to really use it. Better than how it was before though, as i didn't even have to cover the hose at the other end for it to be pissing out.

So, looks like its leaking out of the thread on the screw on the end of the hose. I dont think it's a problem with the hose side, as i never covered that at all.

To answer the question about the hose connection, im 99% sure it's slightly conical, with a small o-ring seated in it.

Maybe these pliers will give it a nice tight seal, but i guess time will tell.

Cant thank you all enough for helping me through this, wouldn't of thought of most of this stuff, especially not the water thing!

Im guessing most of the gas is gone now lol but if i can find some solution, i wont be too bothered about buying some more aslong as it works!

I'll keep you updated.

rjwood_uk · 18-05-2006

il get some pics up of my airbrush and the regulator, connections tomorrow so you can compare.

mine is quite different!!!

i highly recomomend a badger 200 once who have the money and feel confident with using an airbrush!!!

it ranges from being able to do a almost pin point line to a bout 2" accross

when cleaning yours can you take the needle out? if you can its always a good idea to give it a nice wipe with some white spirit/thinners and a nice rince. MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT BEND IT!!! its a fiddle to get back in as you have to hold the "button" in the right possison to allow the needle to pass through it.

to get an idea how this works, once the needle is out, lift the button out and you will see how it goes through!!!

edit:

but just having a look at the type of airbrush you got i dont think you can remove the needle.....

rjwood_uk · 18-05-2006

ok, just so you can see what im on about incase you can do it on yours...

the first picture shows the airbrush complete, i have labled the needle and the button that im on about

the second picture shows the needle and the button out of the airbrush and i have circled where the needle has to go through it when you put it back togeather.

if this cant be done on yours its a waste of my time but hey.

you just wait till they start talking about double-action buttons (the button controlls the paint release by pressing down (as normal) and the air flow by pulling back!!!!)

so not only do you have to think about painting the model correctly you also have to think about what your doing with your finger twice has hard!!!

sod that!!! single-action for me all the way!!!!

5thelement · 18-05-2006

Pin point line to 2 inches is pretty good! apparently mine can do 3mm-50mm, which i thought would be ok to begin with to get the hang of it.

Cheers for the pictures, quite different from mine, but im pretty sure i can remove the needle, i think i read something about that in the instructions, and it has a photo of it disassembled.

It looks like i might be a long way off painting with it though, let alone cleaning it lol

In future i'll try avoiding cheap crap like this

it's just caused nothing but hassle.

Anyways, i'll give these pliers a try tomorrow and see if it makes any difference.

**Bunkerbarge** · 18-05-2006

5th Honestly you are better off learning with cheap crap and learning how to make the mistakes before you progress to more expensive gear that you would be a lot more upset if you broke.

Just think how much you have learned already!!!

If it is just the thread that is dodgy I would wrap some PTFE plumbers thread tape around it. You can get some at B&Q, Do-It-All etc for only a few pence. Wrap a small amount around the thread in the direction of the thread and screw the connection on. You will probably find with such a small thread that it is easier if you cut a thin strip off the tape with a pair of scissors. As you wrap it keep some tension on it and it will follow the contours of the thread. You should only need a turn or two.

5thelement · 18-05-2006

Well, update time. I got the pliers, tightened it as much as possible, and it still leaks

Re-tried the water test, and im not even 100% sure where it's escaping from anymore really, cant pinpoint if its where i thought it was from, or if its possibly from the botton of the adaptor which is screwed onto the can.

I might just contact the seller and tell him it doesn't work and see what he says, although a replacement probably wouldnt make much difference if they're just poorly made. Typical of my luck really

Im itching to paint this tank, and i was really hoping to use the airbrush and get a nice smooth finish with the base coat, but looks like it's back to a brush now

rjwood_uk · 18-05-2006

just go to your local model shop, humbrol do this thing which is just a big, more simple version of what you have and it costs about £10 i think.

get a nice bit humbrol air can for about £6 and there you go!

rjwood_uk · 18-05-2006

here is my regulator as promised, mine seals the whole of the top of the can to prevent any leeks from the centre part.

as iv tried to show in the pictures where all the seals are and also that my air hose is concave as well.

if you want i could give you the contact and parts infor and you could order one of these badger regulators, see if that helps?