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16-01-2007
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#141 (permalink)
| | Hi I'm New | after 70? Hi I’m from South Africa and I’m building the Hachette nitro monster truck. Can any one tell me what issues come after 70 and are it necessary to buy them or can I stop at no 70? |
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16-01-2007
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#142 (permalink)
| | Mad Modeller at large
Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: CHESHIRE,UK Real Name: steven My Models: R/C Nitro/Electric Cars,Boats and Model Railways,Scalextric Visit dynamite25's Gallery
Posts: 515
| You don't need to get the extra issues 71 to 87 to build the truck there just to convert it to the V2 model of the truck so you can stop at issue 70 and build the truck as V1,and with the extra issues you get extra ballraces for front and rear hubs/two speed gearbox/alloy front hubs and blue anodized metal parts to replace the plastic centre braces and some other things. |
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16-01-2007
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#143 (permalink)
| | Hi I'm New | hmmmmmm two speed gearbox!!! :-) maybe i should....
thanx alot! |
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17-01-2007
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#144 (permalink)
| | Hi I'm New | I found another problem with my motor. The idling is fine but a soon as it revs up to a 1/4 of its power it cuts out. What can the problem be? I’ve checked the clutch and for any leaks but couldn’t find any thing wrong? |
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17-01-2007
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#145 (permalink)
| | Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Halifax, Yorks: Nassau, Bahama's:Port Canaveral, USA: and all points in between. Real Name: Richard My Models: Robbe U-47, Deans Marine Cossack, Steam Coaster, Revell U-Boat, Motorcycles. Visit Bunkerbarge's Gallery
Posts: 3,710
| Not knowing this particular engine but looking at this from a general engineering point of view it sounds like fuel starvation. If it works fins at tickover it is obviously getting some fuel through but not enough for higher revs.
Check out fuel filters, kinks in fuel pipes, tank breather, etc...etc...
__________________ 
“Dirty British coaster with a salt-caked smoke stack, Butting through the Channel in the mad March days" |
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22-06-2007
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#146 (permalink)
| | Hi I'm New | I am just wondering is it possible to fit a Kyosho GS15R (with touch start adaption) in to the car that came with the Nitro Racer Magazines. As my pull start is slipping when I am pulling it. and I want to replace the engine.
Last edited by Mole; 22-06-2007 at 01:09.
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22-06-2007
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#147 (permalink)
| | All Round Modeller | Hi Mole and Welcome to the Forums,
The GS15 should go straight into the Nitro Racer No problem as the crankcase is essentially the same size as the GX12 engines. (I have both engines)
The main concern on the one you are looking at, is to make sure that the exhaust would clear the touch starter...as it has been designed by Kyosho it probably will but I would still check it out. It should fit onto the chassis ok (I have a spare chassis here so I have checked that bit out) If you can find a store near you with one of these engines in why not take your car there and check it out just to make sure.
If it was me I would go for it as I can always do modifications if they were needed.
Pull starts for the GX12 engine are cheap enough to replace new too !!
Regards.......Mark
__________________ I'm Only Here Coz I'm Not All There !!! |
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25-06-2007
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#148 (permalink)
| | Hi I'm New | The engine I was looking at was more than I was willing to spend so. What is involved in fitting a pull start on GX12 engine? And does it have to be a pull start. Can it be roto start or any other kind? I have looked on the internet and can’t find a back plate for the GX12 engine. |
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25-06-2007
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#149 (permalink)
| | All Round Modeller | Hi Mole,
Fitting a new pullstart is quite an easy task as there are only 4 screws that hold it onto the back of the engine, undo those and the whole thing will lift away from the engine. There is a Hex shaft inside there as well which you need to keep as it is that part that engages the pullstart to the crankshaft in the engine.
There is a separate backplate on this engine, the one you will see when you undo the pullstart. Whilst you have the pullstart off, have a look at that backplate and there will be another 4 small screws there that secure it to the crankcase, make sure these are tightened up fully, use some thread lock if you need to, as these do undo from time to time through normal vibration when running. If they come undone you will lose pressure in the engine and have leakage which will cause erratic running. (I have recently tightened mine up because of the same problem)
I don't think you can do a roto-start attachement on these and even if you could, you have the problem of accessing it once the engine is mounted in the car. There are other parts of the chassis that will be in the way.
As for the slippage on your current pullstart, it sounds like the spring has gone inside where it secures into the plastic housing inside the pullstart, you can buy separate springs but they can be fiddly to replace, a whole new pullstart is not much more in price and a lot easier to fit.
If you do buy one, follow the steps above and simply slide the hex head of the rear shaft into the pullstart and then fit the shaft in the hole in the backplate. Once on simply replace your 4 small screws and screw the plastic housing onto the back plate, (I always use thread lock on mine now) and that is it....Job Done
The whole job can be done within 10 mins and that includes taking the engine out of the car to do it !! It is really easy.
Regards........Mark.
__________________ I'm Only Here Coz I'm Not All There !!! |
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04-07-2007
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#150 (permalink)
| | Hi I'm New | Hi I’ve fitted the pull start and it was no bother to do. Thanks about telling me to check the screws in the inside they had become lose due to the vibrations when I was at the shop I bought the 2 Speed Transmission and I’ve tried to fit it but there is one thing I am not sure about it shows I need to cut bits out of the rear Differential casing am I needing to do this as I have put it together and don’t see why it needs cut out. |
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