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Reply With QuoteI wash the parts on the sprues before starting the build.Then i wash the completed model just before priming.I use water with bit of washing up liduid the same as you.Works everytime for me.
What cleaning technique do you guys use for cleaning off the release agent from a kit prior to priming or airbrushing?
I thought I had cleaned mine well enough with warm water and a dash of washing up liquid in a bowl, giving a good agitation with a brush and then air drying. Then when I tried to apply the Tamiya Fine Primer it managed to separate on a few of the parts as though it was still dirty.
Would it be an idea to clean with some meths on a clean cloth just prior to spraying to remove any last residue or could this damage the acrylic paint application?
Any recommendations??
Thanks,
Colin.
Last edited by Cooperman69; 16-04-2012 at 10:01.
I wash the parts on the sprues before starting the build.Then i wash the completed model just before priming.I use water with bit of washing up liduid the same as you.Works everytime for me.
I rarely wash anything but if a model looks oily I do what you did, warm water & detergent
I always use Halfords primer, it sticks to just about anything
Cheers, Andy
"Never give in--never, never, never, never, in nothing great or small, large or petty, never give in except to convictions of honour and good sense. Never yield to force; never yield to the apparently overwhelming might of the enemy."
Used to wash but do not now.
Every piece large enough I wet & dry with a 1200 to 1500 paper. The smaller the piece the finer the paper which reduces any small accidental damage.
Came to the conclusion that it is not only possible manufacturing fluids residue but the shiny surface of the plastic. Once that has been done using Vallejo primer airbrushed I have not had any problems.
That is except on a small area on the Wellington fuselage that I missed & it peeled. Found it was still shiny.
Also if you use this method to rinse after wet & drying. I also use a Tac Cloth just before priming to get rid of specs & dust.
Laurie
I wipe mine down with white spirit once it is built. Seems to take the shine off the plastic without damaging the model.
I've always used the same method, an idea i had years ago when i was painting endless plastic figures for myself and friends who did war-gaming / played D&D etc.
Its based on a stone polishing method and is so quick and simple.
All you do is stick the bits you need "buffed" into a glass coffee jar (or metal coffee tin for larger bits) about 1/3 full of bird grit ...pop lid on ..... then just shake it, roll it, waggle it, jiggle it, ... whatever makes you feel groovey
Tip out the contents after about 30 seconds of shaking and you'll find they have a nice evenly sanded surface, blow dust off or wash the bits and job done!!
Works for nearly everything .... Just take extra care with delicate bits
Cooperman69 (17-04-2012), roconnell (18-04-2012)
Hey Colin that is a great idea.
Obviously large bits are difficult such as a fuselage but smaller pieces which are hard to prepare are perfect for this method.
Have you a video of your performance Colin. I have visions of model makers prancing around their garage & wives phoning the mental authorities.
Thanks for that .
Laurie
Sorry Laurie i forgot to mention that larger items are able to be "Buffed up" in a large heavy duty plastic bag, just agitate the grit particles enough to abraise the surface.
As for the performance, the DVDs are on sale from under the counter at your local dodgy video shop
[QUOTE=CDW;125178]
As for the performance, the DVDs are on sale from under the counter at your local dodgy video shop
Now that'd be worth a fiver of anyone's money!
That really depends on the performance Patrick !
Colin do you use water with the grit ?
Just off to get the grit.
Laurie
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