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Old 28-05-2006   #51 (permalink)
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Where you from Declan.
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Old 28-05-2006   #52 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dynamite25
Where you from Declan.
Newcastle, Co. Down N. Ireland

Declan
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Old 29-05-2006   #53 (permalink)
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Hah! how'd they make the mistake of getting the "suspension upright/knuckle-arm/hub-carrier" labeled incorrectly

Quote:
6 This rear upright is specifically designed for the right-hand side of the rear suspension assembly. Although we have noted that it is identified by an embossed letter 'L' on the pivot bracket, don't be misled when you are installing the bearings and trying to match the photographs with the instructions; remember, this is the right-hand upright!
Quote:
7 [...] You will now be working with the right-hand side of the suspension system, so ignore the embossed letter 'L' on the upright.

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Old 30-05-2006   #54 (permalink)
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Hmm!!

Was looking at the rear suspension on mine and I swear that the right hand wheel is toeing in rather than running parallel(ish). The left side look fine.

I've built is as the issues arriver (4 at time - subscriber) and I have to say, there were a few places where the text and pictures confused me. I'm wondering if that has something to do with it. I'll post a picture tonight if I can.

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Old 09-06-2006   #55 (permalink)
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Hi i've finished my monster truck and i'm not going to bother get the other 17 mags. Here is a pic


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Old 10-06-2006   #56 (permalink)
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Hi everyone. This is my first post; I'm in Adelaide, Australia, and currently have only just received Hachette Partworks NMT Issue 39, so I realise we're way behind you folks in the northern hemisphere.

My question relates to confusion I have regarding the correct orientation of the turnbuckles on the rear and front upper suspension arms.

My assumptions as to which is correct is that the larger diameter side of the hole in all of the turnbuckles, both rear and front, is oriented downwards, thus making insertion of the ball connectors easier. This side is indicated by the three small circles around the hole.

BUT, I have the turnbuckle sides with the three circles facing *upwards* on my completed rear suspension, as shown in most (but not all) pictures in the instructions. This must surely be wrong, yet I managed to connect the rear ball joints OK. Should I remove the rear ball joints, turn the turnbuckles so the side with the circles around the hole is facing downwards, and then refit the ball joints?
Similarly, regarding the front suspension turnbuckles (which I have not fitted yet), I am assuming the pictures in the instructions which seem to show the side with the circles around the hole is facing downwards *are* correct?
Any advice would be much appreciated, thank you!

regards,
Charles

Last edited by Charles; 10-06-2006 at 11:24..
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Old 14-06-2006   #57 (permalink)
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Hi charles sorry for the delay in answering your post been abit busy but the three holes on the turnbuckle are just from the mold they were made in and don't mean anything,the turnbuckles can be faced either way holes up or down as it doesn't matter as there identical on both sides.

Heres a PDF file of the truck from Thunder Tiger and has a exploded diagram of the truck if you have anymore question just ask and i will answer as quickly as i can.

PDF file.
http://www.acehobby.com/ace/PDF/Car/6710SSKcatalog.pdf
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Old 15-06-2006   #58 (permalink)
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To Chris (Adzam) and Steve (Dynamite25), ***Thank You*** so much for your replies.

I'm so glad I can go on making my Hachette Partworks NMT (ie now ignoring the business of the three circles around the hole in one side of the turnbuckle connected to the upper suspension arms, thanks to your advice, Steve).

It is the first remote control model I have ever built (I'm in the throes of a second childhood at my advanced age [46] lol) and I am also very new to the environment of these forums in general.

I'll learn the PM-thing properly eventally, but for tonight (I also have a brand new job to learn, which I started this week, after 23 years in my old job), so for now, please can I thank you both publically on the forum, for answering my question!

I hope this message gets through to you OK, and I look forward to staying in touch.

Thanks again, guys, and happy modelling!

PS - No worries on the small delays; I (a) didn't really know what I was doing, when I originally posted here, and (b) you weren't put on this earth just to answer my bleats for help!

bestest,
Charles
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Old 17-06-2006   #59 (permalink)
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hachette nitro monster truck model

Hi Dynamite25/Steven

Quote:
Originally Posted by dynamite25
Hi charles sorry for the delay in answering your post been abit busy but the three holes on the turnbuckle are just from the mold they were made in and don't mean anything,the turnbuckles can be faced either way holes up or down as it doesn't matter as there identical on both sides.

Heres a PDF file of the truck from Thunder Tiger and has a exploded diagram of the truck if you have anymore question just ask and i will answer as quickly as i can.

PDF file.
http://www.acehobby.com/ace/PDF/Car/6710SSKcatalog.pdf
Thanks again for your help! I did not realise the Hachette Partworks NMT was also called SSK Thunder Tiger... very confusing. And do you have any idea why Hachette waffle on about the supposedly "differing" hole diameters/three circles, when it is all untrue?

I reckon I've the perfect excuse to buy a set of Vernier calipers (would be handy for all kinds of things); does anyone know where (in Australia) would I be able to buy such, and any idea of cost?

Thanks,
Charles
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Old 05-08-2006   #60 (permalink)
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NMT suspension question

Quote:
Originally Posted by dynamite25
if you have anymore question just ask and i will answer as quickly as i can.
Hi Dynamite25/Steven, and Chris/Adzam,

Thank you so much for your previous help with the Hachette Partworks Nitro Monster Truck I'm building. I've got another problem, this time it is with the insertion of the white nylon piston sleeve onto the suspension of the NMT. In the instructions, it says "Insert the nylon piston [sleeve] on the damper rod, taking care to position it so that the __bevelled side of the piston__ is outermost on the damper rod"...

Well, what does this mean? Outermost on the damper rod means facing AWAY from the axle/wheel (ie TOWARDS the oil reservoir), surely? If I roll the piston vertically on a table surface, it rolls to one side, proving one face of the piston is smaller in diameter than the other, so this must be what they mean by "bevelled side". In other words, I am assuming I should make sure the smaller diameter face of the piston faces towards the oil reservoir. Is this correct? I have no idea if/why this is important, but physics in NOT my strong suit!

The term "bevelled" is confusing to me, because it really usually means, surely, a bevelled _edge_, for instance a smoothed-down edge on a piece of glass, so the edge is not sharp. Still, I suppose here they simply mean the entire side is bevelled, resulting in a "tapered" disc.

Anyway, is my above assumption correct? Also, my local model shop recommended "35 weight" silicone oil, which I bought. Do you think this was a good choice, and why/why not?

I did not realise the Hachette Partworks NMT was also called SSK Thunder Tiger... do you know why? And do you have any idea why Hachette waffle on about the supposedly "differing" hole diameters/three circles in the turnbuckles, when it is all untrue?

Thanks again!

regards,
Charles
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