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'when i applied the decals it has left water marks on the paint, i have had to go over (as best i can) the paint again where the water marks have been) does this happen to anyone else???'
***Richard W,the way around this is to first give a thin coat of Johnsons to the matt paint,this sinks into the matt finish,as most paints are just too matt anyway this rectifies the problem of giving just the right camouflage sheen,next apply the decals over this and when dry seal again with Johnsons in the area of the decal,this way there will be no marks,I know it is probably too late now to do this but that is the technique,any attempt to apply Johnsons over the decals now will silver the edges so do not apply at this stage.
__________________ 'And there I was oil on my goggles from a broken pipe,then I looked at the altimeter,all I could see was the makers name !' www.wonwinglo.scale-models.net/
ah what a shame john. it always a bugger when things like that happen!!!
earlier in this thread when we were talking about johnsons it says never to use ploy-cement on the cannopys (due to the fapour clouding them up i suppose)
when making a model i use the liquid cyment and the glue (as in the strange shapped one with a needle aplicator) i have always used this one to fix cannopys/windows on and it is solvent free, ie, no fapours....no clouding! just use it sparingly and its perfect, no pva or johnsons needed
although i still need to get myself some of this johnsons clear stuff (do they sell it in sainsbursy??)
ok guys, here she is, what tamiya say she sould ...kinda look like.
lol, bare in mind i have not made a plane in about 5 years or used matt paints! i missed out the "do not step" stickers on the inside of both wings as they just wouldnt go on right over the bumbs where they are ment to go.
Richard W,what a splendid effort,your model really looks the part and conveys the lines of the Spitfire very well,congratulations on being the first to show a completed model.
You could have fooled me that you have not built a model for all of those years.
__________________ 'And there I was oil on my goggles from a broken pipe,then I looked at the altimeter,all I could see was the makers name !' www.wonwinglo.scale-models.net/
some one said (think it was you barry) that at the end of this it would be good to compare some brush painted ones and sprayed ones.
if only i had known about that finishing technique for matt paints and the decals you told me, can you put that up in the tips section please so i dont have to search through all this.
thanks
edit...
this tip, maybe it could be sifted out from the tutorial into a little tip in the tips section? just an idea....
Quote:
This is a common problem with applying decals to matt paint.
Firstly you paint the surface with a gloss finish. You then need to use a decal softening liquid such as Micro Sol when you put the decals on and then use the Micro Set solution after the decal has dried. Finally you use a flat matt over spray and the edges of the decal become invisible and the transfer looks like it has been painted on.
Nothing wrong with brush painting when done properly,after all Rolls Royce hand painted cars for years,owning an airbrush will not guarantee a fine finish just like buying the finest watercolour paints will not guarantee a masterpiece,it is all about build one model,then after a further 100 models you start getting what you want,success in any medium only comes with lots of practise.
You just keep building on what experience that you have,I keep learning from people like yourself Richard W,keep at it,perfection is almost impossible,but improvement is certainly not.
__________________ 'And there I was oil on my goggles from a broken pipe,then I looked at the altimeter,all I could see was the makers name !' www.wonwinglo.scale-models.net/
spilt over a few parts, my cutting mat has almost melted, fortunately saved the main parts
Linear Mode
