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Old 01-04-2006   #121 (permalink)
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Its very good
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Old 01-04-2006   #122 (permalink)
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Coming along nicely John. I can't wait to get home and have a go at mine. I suspect there will still be a few not finished by then so I won't be completely left out.

It will be interesting to see what display options people come up with.

I have a specific idea for mine that I have never seen before so looking forward to seeing how it will work.
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Old 01-04-2006   #123 (permalink)
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pogo if you take a look at mine, i have tried to follow the camo pattern from the instructions as best i can...
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Old 01-04-2006   #124 (permalink)
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I have found that the pattern was changed slightly on various aircraft. some when they had been sent back to the factory for major repairs and some when they went to MU for minor repairs. On base, repairs often ended witha quick coat of paint not ness in the same areas but close. Most did follow air ministry specs and stuck to the schemes laid down.
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Old 01-04-2006   #125 (permalink)
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lol...well if van gough painted the "stary night" again it wouldnt be the same would it!
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Old 02-04-2006   #126 (permalink)
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I had a few problems with the finishing off, first of all I didn't have any yellow paint for the propeller tips so I had to use white, I also lost the fuel cap, I had a few decals tear, I managed to fit them together apart from one that was beyond repair

Anyway I don't think it's turned out that bad

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Old 02-04-2006   #127 (permalink)
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Nice job John.

I was reading an article only this morning that said in the first year of the war most camoflage was hard edged so a painted scheme is probably more appropriate than air brushed for this model anyway.

I like the idea of leaving out the pilot to see inside more clearly.
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Old 02-04-2006   #128 (permalink)
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Good one John Nice pattern as well
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Old 02-04-2006   #129 (permalink)
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yea nice one john. maybe we should have groub-build gallery?
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Old 02-04-2006   #130 (permalink)
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When you consider that John has only built a couple of kits,this is not a bad job at all,just remember the sequence 1/paint model 2/treat with Johnsons 3/apply decals 4/seal with Johnsons,this stops what is called 'silvering' on the edges of the decal film,the problem with decals is there are so many different processes to produce them,the best that I have ever come across were in the Revell 'Borek' finished Tornado,they slid on like a dream,and followed the tricky curves at the same time.
If you do a test piece first with say the makers lettering on the decal and it cracks up,then apply a thin coat of Johnsons that helps hold the decal together.
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