rjwood_uk

ok, as some of you know i am soon going to be starting the Tamiya 1:350 Musashi,

something toby and i were wondering on is how comes for 3 of the paints you are ment to use enamels, and the rest are acrylics?

the 3 colours they ask you to use enamels for are:

XF-11 - JN Green
XF-12 - JN Grey
XF-9 - Hull Red

(im guessing 'JN' stands for "Japanese Navy", please correct me if im wrong)

Is it something todo with the heat/water resistance of enamels or something? (baring in mind this kit is made so that it can be built as an r/c)

also, seeing as i have not used enamels in oever 5 years, how do i spray them? i have enamel thinner which i baught today, what is a good ratio to stick to when thinning the, down? is it the same "milky" consistancy of acrylics?

what did you do on your bismark Richard?

wonwinglo

Richard W,all acrylic paint will eventually lift if immersed for any time in water,this is why enamels still reign supreme for this type of work,also as model boats share water space with IC models the fuel debris will soon strip off any unprotected paintwork.

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rjwood_uk

oh right, thanks barry.

what about the thinning/spraying of enamels then?

Bunkerbarge

As the paint goes through the same proces you want about the same consistency, roughly milk consistancy. You will have to experiment but I would start with 1/3 thinners. It depends upon the particular paint as well so there is no hard and fast rule.

As always experiment before you commit to the model.

There may be colour compatabilities with acrylics and enamels as well but it may just be water resistance as Barry says.

IJN is Imperial Japaneese Navy used by some paint manufacturers and JN is Japaneese Navy. It is actually a very specific grey that has a very slight green tinge to it.

rjwood_uk

thanks alot richard.

thanks guys, thats cleared it all up for me,

now just got to see what to do a bout the pe stuff.

i know it comes with instructions, but is it just like a normal kit? eg. cut away, paint, stick on?

Nigel.D

Richard thin enamels with turps if your spraying try to get the consistency of milk then use about 10psi and just adjust to what suits you best

rjwood_uk

turps?

unfortunatly i dont have a compressor, i stick to the humble "air in a can" i find as long as it is in a bowl of warm water whilst spraying, a constant pressure is maintained, well...more or less.

and as long as you dont stop for too long whilst its in the water the pressure cant build up enough to explode tha can...i hope :S

can anyone help with the p/e side of this please?