home made Decals

tag · 31-10-2008

Hi all
I am looking for help with some home made decals
I was going to have a go at making some so my question is; when printed on the paper I know you spray with a recomended sealer/varnish, do you then have to cut around the decal and the sealer stays or does the ink on its own get left and the varnish then peel when the decal is applied to the model
hope that makes sense

**Bluewavestudios** · 01-11-2008

Hi Tony,

Once you have applied your sealer / varnish, you just cut your decals out in the normal way that you would do with any other decals and then use them in the same way too.
The idea of the sealer / varnish is to stop the ink running when the decal is placed in water.

Not all decal sheets require a sealer though - I have come across some stuff, where for some strange reason, once the ink is dry it does not run when the decals are placed in water. I got this paper from Crafty Computer Papers And Fabrics For Inkjet And Laser Printers

They supply paper for all types of decals now including dry rub transfers too and they are not expensive . I have had good service with this company.

Regards.......Mark.

Artworks2 · 01-11-2008

Bluewave,
Is correct in his statements on custom decals. Providing one allows the flash time for the "Varnish" (drying time) As with most steps in our hobby one should always take their time and not be too hasty. If using the Testors system get away from their paper as I've had decals explode when dipped in water....Artworks2

tag · 03-11-2008

Thanks for the help lads
I will try that company can you still use a setting solution ie 'Micro sol' for akward places

**Bluewavestudios** · 03-11-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by tag

Thanks for the help lads
I will try that company can you still use a setting solution ie 'Micro sol' for akward places

Hi Tony,

To be honest, I have not tried Micro-sol on home made decals, but if you are making up a sheet of decals, You might as well fill the whole sheet with whatever markings you are doing, that way you will have plenty of spares should anything go wrong. You could also use one of these to test it with Micro-sol. (I don't see why it should not work)

The good thing with home made decals is that you can create whatever you want in whatever size you want and it's cheap too !

Good Luck

Regards.........Mark

jspitza · 03-11-2008

Hi Tony:
Make SURE to use liquid decal film after the printing. Microscale makes it and it works like a pure skin that coats the surface. I've tried to make a few with the wrong paper (clear instead of white) but they still looked kinda cool!

tag · 04-11-2008

Hi Jeff can you give me a bit more info please on:

Quote:

liquid decal film

is this used after applying like 'Klear' or before as a surface preperation
Mark
As you've used both sorts:

Quote:

dry rub transfers

In your opinion what do you prefer I presume they're like the 'Letterset' type of graphic

Also as part of my original question if the decals are intricate and small do you need to cut all around the design or can you just cut it out like a kit supplied decals;
as in my mind there would a 'halo' of the sealer that was applied after printing if that makes sense

jspitza · 04-11-2008

Ok:
Check this link out, Tony:
Micro Liquid Decal Film: Microscale Decals
This is applied with an airbrush over the printed decal sheet paper. It drys really quick and essentially waterproofs the paper. And yes, you will need to trim around the decal so that the white backing does not show-its very labor intensive. Hope this helps!

tag · 04-11-2008

Cheers mate

**Bluewavestudios** · 05-11-2008

Hi Tony,

In answer to your question - yes the dry-set stuff is like the old Letraset transfers - It is a little more involved in making these compared to normal waterslide decals but can be done.
I personally haven't tried these yet as the paper etc is fairly new on the weblink I provided but I will be trying them out so will keep you posted.

As for the other question I think Jeff has given you the best answer there. Just one word of caution though when using Klear - make sure any decals etc are fully dried out after they have been applied and then apply the Klear. The reason for this is Klear will react with moisture and will turn white. You don't want to ruin a good model now !!

Regards.......Mark.