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hand-painting enamel

Discussion in 'The paint box' started by markg, Sep 15, 2010.

  1. markg

    markg Scale Model Member

    If I decide to hand-paint a small section of a plane, say the rudder, do I do it in one coat preferrably? or should it be done in 2 coats?
     
  2. spanner570

    spanner570 SALAD DODGER Scale Model Member

    I use brushes for all my model painting Mark and I use two coats, sometimes three, all slightly thinned with turps.

    One coat is rarely enough to give a decent finish. That's how I do it anyway. Other modellers might, and probably will do it differently.

    Ron
     
  3. Ian M

    Ian M GB+SIG Mod. Staff Member Admin

    Several thin coats will give a better result than one thick one. Been a long time since I really painted some thing with a brush, unless you count the windows upstairs!
    Just remember to give it good time to dry before the next coat or you will drag the previous coat(s) off !!!

    Ian M
     
  4. markg

    markg Scale Model Member

    Thanks guys. I only have Humbrol enamels and Humbrol thinner. What ratio paint/thinner is best? Also, are there good acrylics for hand-painting? I tried Tamiya acrylics but they didn't seem suitable for hand-painting.
    cheers.
     
  5. markg

    markg Scale Model Member

    wow Ron !! I've just looked at your gallery... you've been busy !! and they're all hand painted???
     
  6. stona

    stona Scale Model Member

    I still brush paint enamels and find that there is no set thinning ratio even for paints from the same manufacturer. In my case it probably depends on how long the paint has been opened,I have a few tinlets which must be fifteen years old. You need to thin enough for the paint to flow and give an even finish without crossing the line to where it is too thin to cover properly.
    I don't brush acrylics but I think opinion is that Tamiya are virtually unbrushable! I'll wait for a proper brusher to recommend some that work.
    Cheers
    Steve
     
  7. spanner570

    spanner570 SALAD DODGER Scale Model Member

    Yes they are Mark, I was modelling before A/Bs for modelling came out so my dad taught me to paint them using brushes. I sometimes look at A/Bs, but I just sit down and have a drink...the notion soon passes!! lol
    I don't have a ratio for thinning, as Steve points out there are too many variables. I just mix until I get the right consistancy for the job.

    Steve, in my view Tamiya acrylics are not worth a flick of the wrist for briush work. I always use the superb Vallejo model color acrylics, thinned with distilled water if required. I am very happy with the results from this range of paints.
    For detail, weathering and washes, I keep it simple and use Humbrol Enamels, thinned with turps.

    Cheers,
    Ron
     
  8. Bunkerbarge

    Bunkerbarge Moderator Staff Member Moderator

    As with so many things in modelling there is no hard and fast rule but some of the variables you might want to think about are the following:

    1) The coverage of the paint being applied.

    2) The detail of the part being painted such as canvas texture, plate and rivet detail etc..etc..

    3) The colour of the base and whether it has a primer on it. Painting a dark colour over a white plastic will require more pigment than if you are painting over a grey primer.

    Years ago in the days of my making motorcycles I always used gloss enamels to paint the body parts because I got a far better finish than I could with an airbrush. I always used a new brush and a new pot of paint, held the part with a piece of sprue and washed the parts with warm soapy water before applying the paint. I usually only needed a single coat and applied the paint quickly and evenly without thinning. In those cases though there was no detail to hide so as I said it all depends on the individual situation.
     

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