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dhockey11 · 07-01-2009

Howdy,

I just got an airbrush for christmas, so, I had to make myself a fume hood type thing. Me and my dad put this thing together in about an hour.

1. Get the Materials : Internal Exhaust Oven Hood with Filter and Light(used Craiglist and got a lightly used one for 15$). 1/2" Plywood. Lightbulb (halogen for better lighting and energy efficiency. Power cord and minor electrical supplies.

2. Draw a plan, keep it simple. The hood I found was 30"x18", so thats how big my box needs to be. I made it 22" tall, so it would be a comfortable hieght while sitting on a desk (I'm tall and don't want to hit my head).

3. With those dimensions in mind, I started making cuts on the table saw. the two sides were 18"X22", the bottom was 29"X17.5" and the Back was 29"x22". I used wood glue and brads to assemble into a box type thing. Set the hood on top and fastened with screws.

4. Wire the new electrical cord to the hood, making sure to use the proper amp and gauge cord for the hood's electronics. Clamp the cord so if pulled it doesn't rip everything else out. Screw in the light bulb.

That's all there is to it!

There are some issues with my model you guys might want to change. My filter just doesn't cut it. Replace the stock filter with one made for paint booths, I know testors sells some. Also, the opening just might be too big to contain all of the fumes with such a wimpy fan. You could make it shorter, or attatch an adjustable hood sash made out of thin plexiglass. All scientist know what i'm talking about. It is a sheet of plexi that covers the front opening. Can be shut to limit dust (great feature) and open for working. It allows you to keep the opening of the hood minimal while still alowing you to see in. Just adjust the sash so that your arms fit in freely and have ample mobility for the task at hand.

Good luck, hope this helps.

Zack

dhockey11 · 07-01-2009

Oh, and you could make it external exhaust buy pluging the vents in the front, cutting a hole above the fan, and hooking up a hose to the hole. put the other end out a window and your golden. The planet may prefer you filter that as well though.

Zack

**Bunkerbarge** · 07-01-2009

Zack, please don't use this device until you have done a lot more research and study.

There is a very real danger that the volatile paints and thinners you are going to be generating, being in a highly flammable state, will be ignited by either the fan or the halogen lamp. The halogen lamp burns very hot and the surface of the lamp could well ignite the fumes and the fan must be an "Intrinsically Safe" type, which basically means the fumes cannot come into contact with an electric spark in any way.

I don't want to deflate your enthusiasm but you do need to take a few more steps to make this a safe device before you use it.

Personally I simply don't spray or airbrush indoors but I realise that not every one has the luxury of the right facilities but if you are going to do so then you must use a safely designed hood and extractor.

bribri10307 · 08-01-2009

that thing is sweet i always used a cardbord box with a hole poked in the top and shoved a light in it no vent so the pant mist wood fall back onto what ever i was panting ill have to make one i even have a overhead fan for a stove that i got from a job

dhockey11 · 08-01-2009

good thought, one that i totally missed. Has this actually happened? I looked at all the MSDS of my volatile materials, and they all mention absolutely nothing about igniting outside of the can/bottle. My main concern is the lightbulb, since the fan and electrical for everything else is behing the filter contraption which will be retrofitted with a paint fume proof filter. For the ligthbulb, I would assume that the pressures are simply to low to ignite. Although some of the products contain both propane and butane, even if it did ignite, nothing would happen.

My issue with doing this outdoors is for both pollution and wind/cold. I live in the windiest place on the planet (slight exxageration) and absolutely cannot do this outdoors.

Thanks for the headsup

Zack

dhockey11 · 08-01-2009

oh to Bunkerbarge, and switched the light bulb to flourescent because its cooler. It still pushes the 120C that is required to ignite the most flamable of these volatile components, but only when on for a while.

To BriBri, Thanks, but heed Bunkerbarge's caution while building. Although low risk, there is validity to his claim. I'm still looking for some formal sort of warning, but it would be a good idea to be careful.

**Bunkerbarge** · 08-01-2009

Have a read through these threads on another forum, follow the included links and do a bit of Googling for further information:

Spray painting indoors..

Homemade Spray Booth

dhockey11 · 09-01-2009

Thanks for the info. I guess most of the danger is from spray cans, but there is some hazard from the thinners used in certain paints. My airbrush eliminates the propellant issue from the can, but the thinner... For now, i will have to postpone using the hood. I'm only down 15 bucks, though, and an hour, so no damage done.

I still am having a hard time believing that, while using an airbrush, the fumes would actually create a bomb. It would be the lack of containing pressure. At most it would be a eye brow singing fireball.

Anyways, I guess this would be a good time to ask HOW do people spray paint SAFELY indoors? As I mentioned earlier, there is no way for me to paint outdoors in this windy dust pit. It seems almost impossible to use any modelling products safely, since they all are toxic, flamable, and potentially explosive.

Any ideas?

Zack