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21-12-2005
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#2 (permalink)
| | R.I.P. Respected Member
Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Basildon Essex Real Name: Nigel My Models: All sorts Visit Nigel.D's Gallery
Posts: 787
| one of the best sources is wooden drawer fronts they come in all different woods and sizes and most diy or furniture stores have plenty to spare |
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21-12-2005
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#3 (permalink)
| | Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Halifax, Yorks: Nassau, Bahama's:Port Canaveral, USA: and all points in between. Real Name: Richard My Models: Robbe U-47, Deans Marine Cossack, Steam Coaster, Revell U-Boat, Motorcycles. Visit Bunkerbarge's Gallery
Posts: 3,754
| Firstly welcome, always nice to see a new face. We are always gentle with people even Nigel who is now allowed out at weekends for good behaviour.
I can't believe you said drawer fronts as I get my wooden drawer fronts from a garden centre for about a pound and they make superb bases for many things. See attached.
If you want smaller try art shops or if you are lucky enough to have a model shop in your town try them. |
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21-12-2005
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#4 (permalink)
| | R.I.P. Respected Member
Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Basildon Essex Real Name: Nigel My Models: All sorts Visit Nigel.D's Gallery
Posts: 787
| lol i make sure i hae a change of nappie first |
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21-12-2005
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#5 (permalink)
| | Scale Model Member
Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: thames valley Real Name: Guy My Models: model boats, subs, and N scale railways, but all types really! Visit new to trains's Gallery
Posts: 765
| welcome to the forum
the other place you can get them from is the craft type DIY centres.... HOBBYCRAFT do them also a local craft store sell ovals, and rectantangular bases for a few quid,
on a slightly seperate note you dont need alot of kit to make your own..... a router for the edge profile, ( can get these cheap from screwfix direct) and a jigsaw to cut the initial shape out.... if you plan to get a few bases the investment in the tools will pay for itself.....
__________________ just gotta keep building ! |
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24-12-2005
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#6 (permalink)
| | All Round Modeller | mmm gonna try one of those wooden drawer fronts for a stand for my HMS Active, she deserves a proper stand after just being propped on top of a box for years....(She is 20 Years old now and still goes well) There is a pic elsewhere on this forum of her sailing.
Regards.....Mark. |
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24-12-2005
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#7 (permalink)
| | Scale Model Member
Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Inverness Scotland Real Name: Iain My Models: i currently have a hpi nitro mt2 and a thundertiger ts4n Visit Phoenix's Gallery
Posts: 461
| Quote: |
Originally Posted by Bunkerbarge Firstly welcome, always nice to see a new face. We are always gentle with people even Nigel who is now allowed out at weekends for good behaviour.
I can't believe you said drawer fronts as I get my wooden drawer fronts from a garden centre for about a pound and they make superb bases for many things. See attached.
If you want smaller try art shops or if you are lucky enough to have a model shop in your town try them. |
off topic but
i like the rust effect on your model dude looks cool is it done how i think it is
i watched a model tv proggie that did this
they sprinkled iron ore powder on the model and left it out side in the rain for a day or too |
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31-12-2005
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#8 (permalink)
| | Guest | what size base are you after? ive have a few excess bases lying about your welcome to have if u can pay the postage (they are not light!) drop me a pm. | |
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31-12-2005
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#9 (permalink)
| | Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Halifax, Yorks: Nassau, Bahama's:Port Canaveral, USA: and all points in between. Real Name: Richard My Models: Robbe U-47, Deans Marine Cossack, Steam Coaster, Revell U-Boat, Motorcycles. Visit Bunkerbarge's Gallery
Posts: 3,754
| Sorry Phoenix, I missed your question.
I am not a great fan of using "real" rust as it tends to be all one colour. If you study any real rusted machinery it is very much multi coloured.
I use three colours, a bright orange, a brown and a purple and put a good blob on a pallette. Then I use dry streaks of each, mixing as I go and building up layers until I am happy with the results. If you look at real ship photo's rust always forms in specific areas such as nooks and cranny's and in the same direction as water flows off contours and relief items. You can't study enough pictures to see how it forms. When I get a bit of time I'll put a couple of photo's on to give you an idea.
As with so many things I do though practise on scrap first until you are happy with the effect and only then commit to your pride and joy.
I once saw a ship model that had used 'real' rust and it really didn't seem to create the effect for me. I would also stay away from air brushing rust, it just does not form in a finely shaded area. Air brushes are perfect for soot stains around funnels and masts though. |
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31-12-2005
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#10 (permalink)
| | R.I.P. Respected Member
Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Basildon Essex Real Name: Nigel My Models: All sorts Visit Nigel.D's Gallery
Posts: 787
| rust is best from artists pastels and chalks try they blend so easily and if you make a mistake just wipe off |
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