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Old 15-10-2006   #1 (permalink)
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Strted to build My C-5A Vacform Galaxy

Right Folks I have now decided to do my C-5A Galxy 1:72 Vaform. When i cut the pieces out i couldnt believe it was so huge. My dad couldnt even believe it. Ill be posting pics of the vac very soon.
Char.
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Old 15-10-2006   #2 (permalink)
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I always suspected that the C5 Galaxy was large.
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Old 15-10-2006   #3 (permalink)
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Well put it this way i am using my old snooker table which is medium size, like the ones you get from Argos. Basicallly it covers that. The length of the fusalage is 103cm and the length of the Wings is 92cm.
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Old 15-10-2006   #4 (permalink)
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Where are you going to keep it?
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Old 15-10-2006   #5 (permalink)
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Im putting up on my Cealing lol.
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Old 15-10-2006   #6 (permalink)
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Here are some pics after I have cut the fuselage. You can see how big it is compared to my snooker table.
strted-build-my-c-5a-vacform-galaxy-dsc00025.jpgstrted-build-my-c-5a-vacform-galaxy-dsc00023.jpgstrted-build-my-c-5a-vacform-galaxy-dsc00024.jpg

Hope you enjoy.
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Old 15-10-2006   #7 (permalink)
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That is truly huge, and its 1:72. It must be huge!!!
Have Fun!!
Euan
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Old 15-10-2006   #8 (permalink)
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Howdy Miss Charlotte,

Well, I know the real aircraft weighs 380,000 lbs. empty, and a 1:72 scale model of this plane will be huge....get Nigel to put in more ceiling joists lol.

Have a good day,

Greg

Just imagine this aircraft fully loaded with fuel and cargo topping out at about 769,000 lb. (3/4 of a million pounds) now ask yourself how something that heavy flies.
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Old 15-10-2006   #9 (permalink)
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Char,put plenty of formers etc into that long fuselage,get hold of one of those carpet fitters tools that has multi prongs that push out when you place it into the fuselage,draw around the shape onto thick Plastikard and scribe around with a sharp knife or better still an Olfa Cutter ( craft shops ),then snap the Plastikard at right angles finishing off with a sanding block,you could even use balsa wood internal formers,to use these apply balsa cement to the wood and polystyrene cement for the plastic,when joined together the two cements fuse together.
When you build the wings put spars in them to stop them drooping too much,see my tutorial on how to fix them in place.
I look forward to seeing this model as it goes along,Vac forms are real fun to build if not slower than conventional kits,but who cares as long as the end result is there,so plenty of pictures Char !
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Old 15-10-2006   #10 (permalink)
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For convenience and to offer encouregement here is the tutorial-

BUILDING VAC FORM MODELS.
What is a vac-form ? well to fully understand the purpose of these limited production run type of kit it is important to understand why they are made in the first place ? The larger manufacturers rely heavily on recouping the high costs of producing the master pattern or mould as it is termed,to this end they must ensure that the subject that they choose will reach high levels of sale ie the well known Spitfire's,Hurricane's,Me.109 etc are guaranteed money spinners,but what about the types of aircraft models that builders want for their collections ? well this is where the cottage industry come into force with simple vac-forming equipment capable of building adequate model kits,I use the word 'adequate' because this is what is offered,a basic set of mouldings in thin plastic sheet and sometimes you as the builder are required to scratch build undercarriages,propellers and other detail parts.But true modellers look upon these kits as a stepping stone to building those rare elusive types of aircraft and jump at the opportunity to build something very different from the usual run of kits.


This is what you get for your money,a basic sheet of plastic parts that have been hot blown over a master mould,this kit is an Airmodel Bristol Brigand which has not yet to my knowledge been made as a conventional moulded kit.

Start by drawing around the shapes with a marker pen,the reason for this is that it gives us a guide as to where we are going to sand down to,it is much easier to see the pen mark than to judge where the blade has cut into raw plastic.

The first requirement is to tape a sheet of wet & dry paper onto a piece of plate glass,this will provide a perfectly flat surface from which you can prepare the various parts to build the model,you can either tape the paper or better still tack glue the sheet to the glass with a 'cow gum' adhesive,or even use double sided tape to do the job.

To make life easier firstly seperate the pieces leaving a reasonable gap between the parts as above,this makes the parts more manageable at the initial cutting stage.

Use an Olfa cutter to scribe ( not cut through) the various parts,simply butt the blade against the plastic and pull gently towards you,a slither of plastic will be pulled from the plastic leaving a slight 'v' cut this is exactly what we want.

Next carefully snap away the parts,the pieces should break away easily.

You will then be left with a kit of parts that look like this...
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