NapierDogs

Glue, why do the model shops never seem to have the same glue that is asked for in your instuctions?
When building a 1/35th scale static model, it never really mattered. You build it, it goes on the shelf, and the dragon moans about how much dust they collect.
But, now i'm building a 1/16th tank, I realise that it could go through some stress and strain, which if not built correctly, could fall apart?? So you try to build your model, to the letter, as it is new territory.
so, the instruction ask for,
Tamiya instant cement.
Tamiya plastic cement.
Synthetic rubber cement.
I find out, from the shop that Tamiya do not import either of the above cements. plus I can't find Synthetic rubber cement for love-nor-money.

There are a lot of glue's on the market. Are they all the same quality, are some better than others, is there glues or makes and brands that are never to be touched. or, do you get what you pay for.
What is the difference between plastic cement, instant cement, synthetic rubber? or are there other glues that I should be looking at to use, instead of the above?
To you who have been rc model maker for a long time, this might seem a very, easy subject.
As for common sense, with glues. There's no substitute for "knowledge".

NapierDogs.
P.S. If anyone can help with the synthetic rubber I would be eternally grateful.

George

What material is your tank made from? if plastic then a good plastic cement to use is Revell Profesional, which comes in a small bottle with a log applicator spout, which allows you to get the gule where you want it. Anoth good plastic cement is the liquid type which you apply witha brush and the capillery action then takes the glue where you want it. This stuff actually welds the plastice together instead of just sticking it. There is also Super glue [Cyno] various makes and can be got in thin, medium or thick varieties, and again this is good but instant sticking of the bits, ideal for tacking parts before joining them or for applying to small parts that you want to stick instantly.
There are lote of glues on the market suitable for plastic material so it can be a case you take your pick and what is easiest to get hold of where you are

duncan

Synthetic rubber might be what we call sillicon rubber as used for bath sealing etc, see B&Q for colours and "clear". Overnight drying and smell of vinegar. Instant cement I think is just as George suggests ,cyano. I`d suggest the Medium for ease of use and a bit of gap filling plus a little more shuffling time. Epoxy I`m sure you know about but if you can find a contact in "industry" that could get some of the small sachets of 10 minute heavy duty stuff. Finally I think I`ve found the answer to a post I made about an adhesive for sticking the lids on 35mm film cassettes. I`ve experimented with Foaming PU glue from www.falcon-aviation.com It seems to have worked and I only need to find out if it is nitro-fuel proof. Its use on a military tank might make some authenic looking "welds" as it bubbles a bit during the cure on the application of a little water. A lot model shops stock "DeLuxe Materials" which are aimed at modellers and can advise for specific uses. Tamiya just want to sell you another product ! Happy building.

adzam

NApier, i`ve built one of the tamiya series tanks, (most of it Apart from the mechanical parts) go`s togethor fine with a polysterene cement. just make sure that parts fit fine and if nevessary use a fine wet or dry paper or very fine emery board for trimming up/removing flash.

these models go togethor very nicely.
any probs let us know

cheers

Uncivil Serpent

Hi Napier,

For further help etc. try the following web site:

http://www.thistothat.com/

Bit Americanised but what the heck.

Regrds

Chris

Bluewavestudios

In short:

Plastic cement is your normal plastic model kit glue
Instant cement is usually Cyano superglues

and finally rubber cement is as it says, the closest I can think of sold in the UK would be something like Loctite Threadlock compound...the stuff you put on your nuts and bolts to stop them shaking undone.
Quite a few model shops sell this stuff and even Tamiya make it too.

I have an excellent rubber cement bought many years ago at a model show called Fender-Mender, An American product but, it is basically clear liquid rubber & when applied it dries very strong (and it is flexible too)...even on metal. It will only come undone when you apply the necessary force to it....it does withstand heat to a good degree too.......If you have any rubber dinghy's or lilos with leaks...this is the stuff to use as they won't leak after that.
And for all you Cyclists out there, small coat of this stuff on any puncture will seal it for good, no need for puncture repair patches at all.

Regards.......Mark

wonwinglo

Quite a few products produced by companies abroad do not comply with the necessary safety rulings,for example Tamiya produced a rather abnoxious thinners some years back which was taken off the market in the UK.
It is annoying that when we buy a kit the appropiate materials cannot be obtained,the terms 'use only Tamiya products' with this model etc do not hold much water.
A lot of the blame must be directed at the importers,who should check to make sure that they order suitable back-up materials to build the model in question.
The modeller gets fobbed off all of the time and I dont think that it is good enough,we should not have to accept second best.

__________________
'And there I was oil on my goggles from a broken pipe,then I looked at the altimeter,all I could see was the makers name !'
www.wonwinglo.scale-models.net/

new to trains

having just read the above posts regarding adhesives then a great supplier of adhesives to industry and the industrial modelmakiing community is a business called adhesive brokers in Bucks

www.adhesivebrokers.co.uk

please may i make it known i have no interest in this business but my recommendation comes from excellent service, knowledgable advice and brilliant products now for over 10 years from this company- so if you need to source any type of resin, adhesive, solvent or activator then try this business if you are stuck.....

also regarding the posting earlier when using bath sealant be aware that using this product around printed circuit boards ( PCB) is not advisable, the vapour that can be reased during the curing process especially in a confined space can damage components and the electrical tracks on a PCB and the electronics may suffer as a result - so if using this material remove your radio gear first until the silicon is fully cured, then reinstall radio equipment !

also a tip for simulating welds on models try thixotropic cyano gel ( this can be obtained from the above supplier) trim of only a tiny bit of the tube nozzle and then squeeze a fine bead onto the model, ( like piping icing onto a cake) this gel has the consistency of toothpaste and if done carefully a very fine bead can be applied to simulate welds, once happy with the bead spray with a fine mist of activator, this bead will cure and set hard in a short time and is then ready for painting,

this was used to good effect on a fishing trawler and the research sub i built , especially good for larger scale models and its very hard wearing and realistic- ideal for tanks and landing craft and similar.... !

duncan

Didnt know about bath sealant fumes. Waterplane fliers use it to seal radio gear, maybe that is why we get so many problems that we associate with "water ingress". Oh well , win some , lose some. Thanks for link to supplier of glues with some expertise.

wonwinglo

That vinigar smell sure does linger ! remember doing the bath once,the place reeked of vinigar.
Thanks for the very useful glue link,will give these a try soon.

__________________
'And there I was oil on my goggles from a broken pipe,then I looked at the altimeter,all I could see was the makers name !'
www.wonwinglo.scale-models.net/