shadowmaker

thanks Phoenix will give it a go and if not will give the shop a ring or visit

shadowmaker

Thanks again phoenix

right gave the screw a fiddle with and it has altered the amount of fuel being blown out the exhaust and i have also tightened the glow plug up as well.

Bluewavestudios

Hi.......I Have Just picked up on this thread,
I agree with the other answers but have noticed another point you made, the steam from near to the glow plug...I take it you are using one of those copper washers with your glow plug...that is there to act as a seal too....if you do have one, check it has not been crushed through over tightening and replace with a new one if need be...being copper they are soft so are very easy to crush. Also check your cylinder head bolts are fully tightened....I recently noticed power loss on the Skyline I did for Nemesis and erratic running too...when we stopped the car I noticed the engine had gone black so something was not right somewhere...the cause was the cylinder head bolts had all come loose through vibration during running (first time I have known that in any r/c engine I have had and this is a brand new engine)
I re-did the cylinder head using some gasket compound to redo the seal and then did the cylinder head bolts back up all with Loctite Thread lock on them.......problem solved.

Regards.........Mark

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wonwinglo

You are getting some good advice here regarding glow motors,if I can add a little extra for all users and especially those that are having problems with gassing joints etc,dont forget that these motors run very hot anyway,and above all vibration can wreak havoc over a period of time,so always check a few things 'when the engine is hot' tighten up the head bolts with the proper tool,nip them up diagonally a couple at a time,ie so that as in good engineering practise there is equal clampdown on the head,dont forget to check the engine backplate as well,often overlooked,a gas leak here will cause erratic running as well.Glow plugs have a life to them,very rarely over 4 hours running time,after that they start to break down and can also start to bubble fuel through at the joint of the plug,throw the defective one away and treat the engine to a new plug,also that washer,use a new one every time as they compress.
If the carb is held with screws etc then make sure they are not loose,make sure every joint is sound,a glow motor is just a fancy pump really and relies on absolute attention to any joint in the system.
On top of this mke sure that your fuel system is sound,ie again no leaks anywhere including pipes,joints and exhaust pressure feed,if you have a pressure feed then always place a filer in line,otherwise crudge blown out from the engine will return to the fuel tank ( often overlooked,think about it !)
That about sums it up,check,check and double check,you learn that very quickly especially when flying helicopters which require that the engine never stops.

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Phoenix

using gasket sealant on the head and threadlok on the head bolts is not recommended by engine manufacturers

the shim on the head should have been ok on its own and for the screws you just gotta check them after every run

i had that happen on my ts4n engine on 3 of the bolts except they stripped when they came out for some reason

and as wonwing says use a fuel filter on both fuel line and pressure pipe

spacezooki

its definatly a fuel mixture problem if it smoking to much and and dies when u stop try leaning it out a little only abt a quarter of a turn in on the carb

Bluewavestudios

Phoenix,

Regarding the Head Gasket compound and Threadlock, I know what the manufacturers recommend...and that is usually to get you to buy their products or send the engines back to them for service...Higher prices and they make more money that way....None of this stuff comes into contact with the engine internals so does not affect the engine in that way.
I have been running I/C Engines for 30 years now and have never had any trouble using those compounds when needed.
The Stuff is good enough for real car engines so why not model ones..??

I am not having a go by the way...just speaking from my own modelling experiences using the stuff I mentioned....It works for me....and I haven't trashed any engines yet !!

Regards.........Mark.

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wonwinglo

I agree with Bluewave on this one,just make sure that you use 'Blue' threadlock and not the red variety,the first one you can crack the joint,the latter one is there for keeps.
Helicopter modellers use this stuff all of the time,you have to on heli's because things just vibrate loose and fall off.

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Phoenix

just as with real car engines though

your not meant to use instant gasket/gasket sealant as a head gasket

each to his own i suppose though

wonwinglo

The biggest problem with these silicone sealers is when used near a carburettor,even the smallest amount of stray sealer can cause problems,there have been cases here in the UK where aircraft engines have stopped due to carb debris caused by silicone sealents,the sealent spreads out even within the flange and dries out as a small flap,then eventually it breaks off and can cause a blockage,with our model engines this is not life threatening,but it is just as well to be aware of the consequences of mis-application.
Used sensibly it can be of use in our hobby.

__________________
'And there I was oil on my goggles from a broken pipe,then I looked at the altimeter,all I could see was the makers name !'
www.wonwinglo.scale-models.net/