Log in

• Remember Me?
  Register Help

Nope I've used some (a lot of) artistic license on the greasy bits under the footplate. I didnt fancy machining the cylinders and hackworth valve gear on this build! Depending on how well it works out In my next loco I'll probably machine those myself.

How did you do your rivets? What wheels have you used?

I used copper rivets from MacModels, to get the exact length I pushed them through a hole drilled in a piece of 4mm aluminium sheet, snipped off the ends and filed to length. I countersunk the holes on the back and then peened the ends over and filed them down flat.

For a raised rivet I use a rivet snap held vertical in a vice and then peen the other end over, finally finishing off with another rivet snap to give a neat appearance. I actually used a blob of bluetack to position the buffer beams on the top of the vice to align everything and keep the bits in place. That way I had two hands free to hold the rivet snap and hammer.

For smaller rivets I was considering buying (or making from a pair of molegrips) one of these tools:

Dave Noble - Tools

I used wheels from IP Engineering for the loco! I was going to turn my own but had some of those spare and they do run nice and true too!

Hi Alan, What gauge is your Mamod project going to run on?...narrow gauge looks like.
Have you a layout already? Your brief biopic say's you model anything worth saving, how diverse are your projects?

...I've considered live-steam in OO gauge, but I'm going to wait for a while yet, and see what other models Hornby produce.

You've a fine start to your Engine, you are obviously a very competent machinist, and I hope it goes as good as it's starting to look...excellent rivet detail....

Best wishes...jules

Jules,

The Loco is a 16mm/ft model of a small 2ft gauge Loco it runs on 32mm track. It's based on a Kerr Stuart Sirdar but I've reworked the drawings to allow enough space to fit R/C and gas firing. It's a little longer and a fraction wider too. I'm designing it in CAD as I'm making it too.

In the past I've modelled WW2 subjects and Tamiya 1/20 F1 cars, I've also been interested in Sci-Fi but for some reason the Railway Modelling bug just hit me and thats taking up more of my time.

I've never been a fan of narrow gauge, but my Dad's built a garden railway so I have somewhere to run the loco on! I've always been amazed by model engineering and have never had the confidence to work on a live steam project. I wouldn't call this model engineering as the amount of engineering involved is a minimum using the oscillating cylinders!

It's a learning curve though and now I can happily make things like curved smokebox doors where previously it was a mystery! I've also learned silver soldering and lots of other skills that'll surely be useful in subsequent projects!

There's alot more to soldering than most people realise isn't there?

I've made a few Loco's in 4mm scale and I have to use Low-melt solder and be very careful vis-a-vis Iron temperature. The white metal I work with usually dissolves if you go too far with the heat, and I've been very hesitant to use it in any great strength, so I use mostly superglue Gel... and solder only the brass chassis. I use a thirty watt iron for that, but I've found practising on low melt with even an 18 watt iron is risky at best.

any ideas?...jules

Sorry I can't help you there - soldering white metal kits is going to be problematic as the melting point of the part and the solder is such a close range. Do you use one of those soldering iron stations with the temperature control? Those are very good when soldering sensitive electronic components where you have to avoid cooking them!

The main problem with silver soldering is the other extreme - getting enough heat. I use a Bernzomatic propane torch. It works great and the silver solder seems to flow much better than soft solder too.

Here's an update on the progress on my loco!

I've made the combustion chamber for the external gas burner: