Resirators

[Tom Rigg]

Been thinking of getting a respirator but I don't know what to look for.
A brief overview:
I only spray Tamiya acrylics and primer (Tamiya or Halfords) in a well ventilated garage (e.g spray primer base, then base colour then camouflage colours as applicable) not all in one sitting and probable less than 8 times a year. And very limited resin work (always thoroughly wet the stuff when sawing/sanding).
Any recommendations please.
I've been looking around but can't make up my mind on what size particulate protection for example, and is it better to get one with replaceable filters (how long do they last and how often do you change tham etc.)
Thanks All
Tom

 

[Jens Andrée]

The (active) filters starts to "wear out" as soon as you break the seal on them and have to be replaced according to the manufacturers instruction. Max 6 months but honestly I think it's a lot less.
I've got a mask (3M full face mask) with particle filters for sanding resin/epoxy, and another set of filters for when I handle certain acids (for deep etching).
Expensive but we're talking a fair bit of dust/vapour here that I doubt you make when modelling?
The active 3M filters are very expensive but cheaper than new lunges...

My full face mask costs ~£120 and the filters are £10 each for generic "paint" filters and there are generic "dust/particle" filters, either standalone - or as pre-filters for around £10 each. When I splosh around with my corrosive acids I use more expensive filters like £35 each - and they are used only a couple of times because they break down the active ingredients faster and it becomes harder to breath through them.
Passive filters have a longer lifespan in my opinion than active ones, but you have to store the mask and filters properly between sessions in a dust free box with lid for obvious reasons.

This is a picture of me with blue epoxy dust all over my face (using beard as "particle filter") that made me realise I had to get a proper mask! The filter I'm using in this picture is NOT a valid solution for sanding resin/epoxy.

I don't use my mask when sanding/painting scale models simply because it isn't dirty enough. I use acrylics with isopropanol which isn't smelly or dusty, and the sanding isn't exactly creating any dust clouds, but I'm not sanding large pieces of resin/epoxy for modelling. If I did then I'd wear my mask. Lesson learned.

This is the 3M mask I've got.

This is the respirator I really should've been using but it was too expensive at the time... It costs £1000!
It's a lot nicer to use though, but it's designed for professional use in dirty environments.

 

[Snowman]

I use a 3M 6200 Half Mask with suitable cartridges and particle filters.

 

[John Rixon]

You've got the same issues as me Jens, beards are not at all good when it comes to wearing all but a full faced hood type! Thankfully, I never want to use solvent based materials any more, so it ain't gonna be an issue! But if folks are going to be using Alclad or MRP laquers, or ven Tamiya thinned with X20, proper protection is paramount.

 

[BarryW]

Having changed my spray booth to a BenchVent, vented outside through a window, I barely notice the smell from MRP as it does seem to 'draw' well. The first time I sprayed with it I used a respirator but since then I have not bothered, I just let the spray booth do its job. Maybe I should use one....

More importantly my missus has not noticed any smell at all...

 

[Tony]

I use a 3M 6200 Half Mask with suitable cartridges and particle filters.
View attachment 287176

Same as i use. Been sometime since i did any model painting but have since purchased one of those foldaway spray booths and venting hose but as i have no permanent workspace chances are the next time i set up it will see me using my mask.

 

[Snowman]

purchased one of those foldaway spray booths and venting hose

I build my own using chipboard and an old extractor fan.:D