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Old 30-03-2005   #11 (permalink)
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Barry

I didn’t attach the spats solidly to the wing. The top, blue bit, is attached to the wing; it was made out of a latex material from the model shop, using a plaster of Paris mould. It comes in small lumps that you gently heat then pour into the mould. The top of the ABS spat was strengthened with balsa and glued to the latex. The “gaiter” is a piece of bicycle inner tube. This system worked well, at least for the 3 take offs and 1 landing that I made with it!!!

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Old 30-03-2005   #12 (permalink)
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With the exception of the cowl and spats, which have double curves, the model was covered using panels cut from A4 printer paper. Using the 3 - view as a guide cut a rough panel and Selotape to the model, then mark accurately. To make life easier, cut a strip about 1cm wide from acetate sheet, this will bend around any curvature. Remove the panel and cut to shape, emboss “rivets” from the reverse side using a dressmaker’s pattern copying wheel. To get a good fit to the next panel, Selotape the finished panel in position slightly overlapping the rough cut next panel, using the edge of the finished panel as a guide accurately mark the next panel. Depending on where you start you may need to make a few panels before you permanently attach the first, it sounds complicated but it’s easier to do than to explain! I used watered down PVA to initially glue the panels, this made them a bit pliable and enabled them to be stretched for a good fit. When the model was completely covered a couple of coats of very thin dope finally sealed everything in place.

Inspection panels are made from self-adhesive aluminium tape as used in car repairs and the cowl had a couple of litho plate panels to break up the plainness of the ABS.

When suitably weathered the resulting finish is very realistic, as in real life the butt joints between adjacent panels is quite subtle, I’ve seen quite a few reasonable sport-scale models ruined by thick black painted on panel lines.
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Old 30-03-2005   #13 (permalink)
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Looks very effective Grahame,the paper will also knit the wood grain together much the same as good old tissue does when doped into place,another way to stick the panels on is to use Scotch spraymount,the permanent variety,perhaps a tad lighter than the PVA,the model certainly looks like metal clad.
I think that my Hawker Typhoon renovation will receive this treatment.
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Old 30-03-2005   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wonwinglo
... Scotch spraymount,the permanent variety,perhaps a tad lighter than the PVA,....
Barry

I don't know if using spraymount would be as good, the slight stretchiness using watered down PVA enables the panels to made to butt up tightly against each other and even take on slight double curves. You do have to be careful not to apply too much pressure over the rivets though or they disappear!



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Old 26-10-2005   #15 (permalink)
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thats very good ive got a 1/24 stuka and i havent built it yet but i took photos from duxford and im going to use the camuflague on that. its a very big kit i must say
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Old 26-10-2005   #16 (permalink)
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Please post some photos as you build the kit, it’s always nice to see the progression from “bare bones” to finished article; I hope some of my photos help and act as an incentive.
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