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27-07-2006
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#21 (permalink)
| | Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Warwick,UK Real Name: Barry My Models: Aviation artifacts Visit wonwinglo's Gallery
Posts: 5,626
| Dont forget to drill through the hinge area Iain,then push toothpicks through,then slice off,otherwise they come adrift in flight usually.
__________________ 'And there I was oil on my goggles from a broken pipe,then I looked at the altimeter,all I could see was the makers name !' www.wonwinglo.scale-models.net/ |
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27-07-2006
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#22 (permalink)
| | Scale Model Member
Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Inverness Scotland Real Name: Iain My Models: i currently have a hpi nitro mt2 and a thundertiger ts4n Visit Phoenix's Gallery
Posts: 461
| Quote: |
Originally Posted by wonwinglo Dont forget to drill through the hinge area Iain,then push toothpicks through,then slice off,otherwise they come adrift in flight usually. | they are super glued in so i dont think it will be a problem cos i stuff one up and had to cut it out and it was stuck pretty good so i dont think that will be a problem
when my dad did the planes all he did was super glue them in after giving them a little rub with sand paper to take off the polish so he says it should be fine but we shal see when it gets flown hehe |
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27-07-2006
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#23 (permalink)
| | Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Warwick,UK Real Name: Barry My Models: Aviation artifacts Visit wonwinglo's Gallery
Posts: 5,626
| Iain,that should be fine,the problem with superglue on things like aligning say three or four hinges is that the adhesive sticks too quickly,sometimes you get in a right mess trying to hold the control and position the hinges.
So if you rough up the hinges,then apply say evostick adhesive,then push all hinges into place lining up,allow to dry and next day drill and peg.
Anyway it is something to think about next time around if you have to do the job again to make life easier for you and others here tackling a similar job.
__________________ 'And there I was oil on my goggles from a broken pipe,then I looked at the altimeter,all I could see was the makers name !' www.wonwinglo.scale-models.net/ |
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27-07-2006
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#24 (permalink)
| | Scale Model Member
Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Inverness Scotland Real Name: Iain My Models: i currently have a hpi nitro mt2 and a thundertiger ts4n Visit Phoenix's Gallery
Posts: 461
| what i did was cut the slot on a trailing edge then i put the hinges in and chacked to see if it would foul anything on the other surface
then i put some super glue on the hinge at the base of the slot and the super glue flows down the hinge and the slot
then i marked on the other part where the hinges are then cut the slots on those bits fitted the edge and pushed it to the side so it looked like this
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/
then put some super glue on it and did the same for the other side
they seem pretty solid to me from doing it that way
i think the cocktail stick pegs is a good idea but i dont like it that the solar film has to be popped to do it |
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27-07-2006
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#25 (permalink)
| | Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Warwick,UK Real Name: Barry My Models: Aviation artifacts Visit wonwinglo's Gallery
Posts: 5,626
| That sounds fine Iain. |
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27-07-2006
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#26 (permalink)
| | Scale Model Member
Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Inverness Scotland Real Name: Iain My Models: i currently have a hpi nitro mt2 and a thundertiger ts4n Visit Phoenix's Gallery
Posts: 461
| i have now done the airelon servo and linkages
but i am needing help with the rudder and elevator |
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28-07-2006
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#27 (permalink)
| | Scale Model Member
Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Inverness Scotland Real Name: Iain My Models: i currently have a hpi nitro mt2 and a thundertiger ts4n Visit Phoenix's Gallery
Posts: 461
| ok got all my linkages done except at the servo ends as i need to clear coat it then install the servos
so here comes my question
what should i do to clear coat it? should i wipe the engine bay with white spirit to remove dust etc also should i wipe the solar film with white spirit to remove grease and dirt etc
advice please
but before i clear coat it im gonna paint the white horns on the rudder and elevator red to make it look a little better
i will post some pictures later |
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28-07-2006
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#28 (permalink)
| | Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Warwick,UK Real Name: Barry My Models: Aviation artifacts Visit wonwinglo's Gallery
Posts: 5,626
| Clearcote is a balsa sealer and not a fuel proofer Iain,any porous balsa pieces in line with the hot engine exhaust should be treated,also seal around any solarfilm joins with the clearcote to stop them lifting.
Once you have done all this now is the time to fuelproof the engine bay,for this use Tufcote a two part furniture varnish widely used for our models to protect them from hot fuel ingress.
Just use a big mop type brush to apply it,do not use it indoors,either of these products especially this weather will wreak through your house and the fridge in minutes,I know of one case where a flat had to be evacuated because a modeller had Tufcoated below,all of the residents eyes were watering with the acrid fumes,so use with care.
__________________ 'And there I was oil on my goggles from a broken pipe,then I looked at the altimeter,all I could see was the makers name !' www.wonwinglo.scale-models.net/ |
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28-07-2006
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#29 (permalink)
| | Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Warwick,UK Real Name: Barry My Models: Aviation artifacts Visit wonwinglo's Gallery
Posts: 5,626
| Iain,you can clean Solarfilm with rubbing alcohol,Meths etc,this will remove any grease,clean around the nose with an old toothbrush used dry to get rid of any dust particles etc.
__________________ 'And there I was oil on my goggles from a broken pipe,then I looked at the altimeter,all I could see was the makers name !' www.wonwinglo.scale-models.net/ |
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