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Old 07-08-2006   #51 (permalink)
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***Iain,you will quickly drain your flight pack if you leave it as is,the servo will stall out,another way to get around this would be to remove the snake inner and outer altogether,then use the thinnest piece of wire that you have available,when the throttle is set the best you can the thin wire will just bow outwards and take the strain,or you could simply remove the outer of the snake and use only the inner,this would then do the same,the idea is to give a bit of flex in the throttle wire so that on over-ride it does no damage to the servo.
A stalled servo can drain a battery within minutes so beware.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phoenix
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...myplane015.jpg

it doesnt have throttle adjustment just the trim

if it had adjustment it wouldnt be a problem

but i think it will have to be a servo saver option but there is no model shop near me to buy a rods and spring and collets etc

so if possible i would like to keep the snake for now as i cant get the required stuff at this moment

anyqway here is a pic of the radio http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...myplane015.jpg

its a jr magreggor(sp?) apex and is older than me haha

cant find anything on the net about it though
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Old 07-08-2006   #52 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wonwinglo
Iain,I cannot see the fuel tank,looking at the picture I suspect that it could be much too low as the needle is above the front top panel of the model,this was a fault with the Hi-Boy,what you need to do is cut the top of the panel away,then raise the fuel tank level uo higher,otherwise the fuel will not feed properly and the engine will cut .
The tank will stick above the panel line but there is not much you can do about that.
I know that it is a pain to move it but it really does need modifying.

aww man would it not be ok if it was pressed up against the top panel

really dont want to cut it up


Quote:
***Iain,you will quickly drain your flight pack if you leave it as is,the servo will stall out,another way to get around this would be to remove the snake inner and outer altogether,then use the thinnest piece of wire that you have available,when the throttle is set the best you can the thin wire will just bow outwards and take the strain,or you could simply remove the outer of the snake and use only the inner,this would then do the same,the idea is to give a bit of flex in the throttle wire so that on over-ride it does no damage to the servo.
A stalled servo can drain a battery within minutes so beware.
forgot to say i sorted that moved the clevas down the carb arm after redrilling it so it no longer stalls
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Old 07-08-2006   #53 (permalink)
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Iain,no the tank must be higher,these engines need the fuel flow level to be neither too low ( as it is at the moment ) or too high which will flood the carburettor,the mean fuel level ( that is when the tank is about half full) needs to flow easily to the carb,the fuel pressure feed from the silencer takes care of the fuel level only as the engine is running,when drawing glow fuel into the engine via the pressure feed.
I know that you do not want to cut into that panel but it is imerative that you do to get the level right,by doing so adjustment can then also be made by packing the tank up or down to the critical level.
The only other alternative,and one that is just if not more difficult would be to lower the engine by removing and re-positioning the engine mount,but by doing this you would also need to re-route the throttle as well,it is a catch 22 situation.
My advice is to forget the looks ( you could always place more wood around the tank area when it is right to pretty it up a bit ) and go for reliable operation,after all this will be your trainer and you will need to get plenty of flying time with the model.
Reliability is of the utmost importance,I can tell you that having seen so many engine failures on take off, as the fuel does not feed properly and starves the motor,it is the number one cause of crashes.
Get this little bit right and the model will serve you well.
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Old 07-08-2006   #54 (permalink)
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ok im gonna try and mod it so it will still look ok and work correctly but which part of the tank has to be level with the carb? the pressure nipples which are at the top of the tank or the fuel nipple which is in the centre?

i had it running earlier but when it got to half tank and below it started to run poor

also which size prop will give the best performance from my os 40?
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Old 07-08-2006   #55 (permalink)
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Drawing of where the fuel tank should be placed.

Fuel Tank installation in relation to the needle valve assembly.

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Old 07-08-2006   #56 (permalink)
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Propellers for 40 sized engines-
Try a 9 X 6 for general flying and see how the engine behaves,you could also use 9 X 5 even a 10 X 4.
Best test is to start up the engine,hold the model vertical for a few minutes it should run without cutting,if it does cut then richen up the needle by opening it out ie anti clockwise.
Make sure there are no air leaks anywhere in your fuel pipe,fittings etc otherwise the pressure feed will not work reliably.
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Old 07-08-2006   #57 (permalink)
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ok got that

i will attack it tomorrow i think

the thing is they even say in the book to go with the plans that the centre of the tank should be level with the carb needle yet it doesnt allow you to on the model
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Old 07-08-2006   #58 (permalink)
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***The main fuel feed pipe,the one that goes to the clunk is the one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phoenix
ok im gonna try and mod it so it will still look ok and work correctly but which part of the tank has to be level with the carb? the pressure nipples which are at the top of the tank or the fuel nipple which is in the centre?

i had it running earlier but when it got to half tank and below it started to run poor

also which size prop will give the best performance from my os 40?
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Old 07-08-2006   #59 (permalink)
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***I know,it is a fault with most of these trainer designs,trust me the mod is essential for reliable flying.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phoenix
ok got that

i will attack it tomorrow i think

the thing is they even say in the book to go with the plans that the centre of the tank should be level with the carb needle yet it doesnt allow you to on the model
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Old 07-08-2006   #60 (permalink)
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will need to go buy a prop

i have a new 11 by 7 i think or its a 11 x 6.5 it is and a 10x6 with scuffed ends
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