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Old 15-04-2006   #11 (permalink)
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Thats what you say now, we know you have your own!!

As for the paint John, there is definately some evidence there that the paint wasn't quite mixed enough. If a tin od spray has been on the shelf for a while it will take a lot of mixing, especially matt. I put mine into warm water and shake the tin for a long long time. The warmth helps it to mix, increases the pressure a bit and helps the paint dry.

It looks like some paint has gone under the blue tack by capilliary action so maybe you were a bit heavy handed in some areas. Do very light coats, building up the opacity each time and allowing the first coat to dry before you go over again. A bit of practise and you can acheive some very good results with the spray tins.
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Old 15-04-2006   #12 (permalink)
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I think this time I may just try and rub down the affected areas carefully see if that looks ok, but like everything it's a learning curve and so far apart from the few teething problems I'm find it's working for me, I think the next progression will be to get the air brush out again
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Old 08-08-2006   #13 (permalink)
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wash the model in warm soapy water..and let it dry..i use a hairdryer on low heat..carefully.....when its thouroughly dry undercoat the entire model .
i use citdel miniatures plastic undercoat in white...this will give the base coat something to bite onto. wether you paint by hand or use an airbrush.. mix your paint thouroughly ,until it resembles the consistency of milk..use the correct thinner...dont rush it if you dont cover it in one coat WAIT till its dry and do a second coat..its easier to add paint to a model than to take it off...never paint onto bare plastic.. and always even if the bare plastic is the right colour..paint it .it always looks better..if your paint scheme calls for more than one colour.. paint the lighter coulours first..you will use less and its easier to correct mistakes...allow plenty drying time.
and dont touch it with bare hands while its wet........
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Old 28-11-2006   #14 (permalink)
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Cool

Hey guys - not been a member here for long but been usin an airbrush for a fair while. The feathered edge with some steady handed airbrushing is unbeatable especially for tank camo.....methinks I have done the exact model - it's a 1943 model T34/76 - Tamiya? with battery diagrams on the inside of the hull base???? lol

Good idea with the blu-tack but I suspect the paint's creeping in under the blue tack and being held there by surface tension until dry! I used to use cheap s*** maskin tape and this happened AAAAAAAHGHGHGHGH!!!

Anyway chief, hope this helps.
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Old 30-11-2006   #15 (permalink)
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I think in all honesty you will need to clean off the current paint job and start again with a good base coat, some form of red lead colour would be good (perhaps even authentic?") then re spray again, try masking off areas with cotton wool instead of masking tape etc, cotton wool tends to give a better blended effect. I also think the colours you are using are too pristene,I think some mellowing of the shades willl help, look at photographs of real tanks and they all have a dusty grubby appearance which mellows the original colours. What you use to achieve these effects is your decision but I tend to overbrush with weak paint solutions of various shades to make it work. I read a great article on shading at armorama.com which I found very comprehensive and very very helpfull.
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Old 28-05-2007   #16 (permalink)
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I've been working on a T-34/76 for the past few days. Not quite the same one as yours, but close. It's about 90% put done, save for a few really small parts, and I have the whole thing coated in black primer ready for paint.

I'm trying to decide what kind of tank I want it to be. Fresh off the assembly line or Captured by the Germans (similar to yours) or Veteran of Kursk. I'm not sure yet.

Last edited by DirtyDrummer; 28-05-2007 at 05:49.
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