"Back to Basics"

[Bunkerbarge]

I'm glad I could provide some suggestions and food for thought.

Picture frames can work really well as a base and, as you rightly say, study as many period pictures as possible. keep it very simple and just add one or two other points of interest to create a scene rather than a model on display.

Don't forget to post a picture when you have done.

 

[wonwinglo]

***A good way to simulate the anti slip effect is to obtain a bag of model railway scenic scatter fleece,mix a portion by experimentation with enamel paint,give a good stir,mask the area where it is needed,apply a anti-bleed coat of clear varnish or better still Johnsons Klear to the edge of the masking tape to stop creeping of the black or grey paint,allow to dry and apply your homebrew anti slip finish.

Dont worry what it looks like at first,once it self levels and dries out it looks excellent.

The only thing I have tried in the past to create a similar effect was to add talcum powder to matt paint. I can't even remember what I was doing at the time now as it was such a long time ago.From what I remember this proved quite successfull although a fair amount of experimentation was required!

 

[Bunkerbarge]

I haven't seen this added to for a while. It's nice to know it is still here though.

I think the media you add to the paint depends a lot on the scale that you are working in. Obviously a larger scale demands a much more textured filling such as the scenery with finer scales needing such materials as the talcum powder.

It is great fun playing around with textures like this though and trying to get it to look correct for the scale.

 

[Nigel.D]

Prople might try powdered chalk as this is better for large scales

 

[Antony]

If anyone thinks that "Back to Basics" is too basic please let me know. I don't want to embarrass myself by boring everyone!!

From someone who does remember buying a plastic kit for 2/6 in a plastic bag - keep it up. Ive just begun to enjoy remembering all those things Ive forgotten. And the advice is practical and useful too.

Antony

 

[tigerdonkey]

Hi there.. I used to make models as a kid, and have been hankering after something to do with my hands for months now- your fantastic posts (on this most impressive site) have convinced me to wind my way back to the model shop! Your list of handy things for beginners was especially handy- thanks very much!

 

[john]

Welcome to the forum Tigerdonkey it's good that Richard's post and this site has encouraged you to get back in to modeling, feel free to post as many questions and tips you may have, they all help to help others.

 

[Bunkerbarge]

Thanks for the kind words Tigerdonkey and a very warm welcome to the forum.

Plastic modelling still has a lot to offer in the way of a satisfying hobby and the materials you can buy nowadays make it even more enjoyable. You still can't beat though putting together a simple small kit, painting it up to the best of your ability and sticking it on the shelf at home to admire.

Guarranteed to take you back to your youth!!

 

[bobdoc]

This idea of back to basics is excellent, particularly with the emphasis on on presenting on a single topic. You then enable comments (not like this one, but from other experienced modellers on the detail of the topic). Once the content is stable, perhaps it could be locked (no more direct comments) to be used as a reference site, perhaps even with an index. As and when there are changes required, a discussion thread could provide the basis for amending the reference site.

Well done ... I like it!

Bob

 

[john]

perhaps it could be locked (no more direct comments) to be used as a reference site

Hi Bob welcome to the forum, there is already a page that from this thread http://www.scale-models.co.uk/view.php?pg=backtobasics is this what you had in mind?

 

[bobdoc]

Exactly! Plus the "internals": e.g. wiring, batteries, elctrics, electronics, motors, rigging, painting figures and, of course, etcetera!

Bob

 

[Bunkerbarge]

Thanks for the support Bob and welcome to the forum. We try to make our resources as user friendly as possible and welcome any suggestions as to how we can do things better.

I haven't actually added anything to the Back to Basics thread for a long time, maybe I need to have a think about one or two more subjects.

 

[James Schultz]

These posts have been really informative. As a beginner these posts are helping me a lot.

Thanks

Jim

 

[Graeme Brumfitt]

Bunkerbarge: 1) Knife. I spent most of my modelling life using surgical scalpels. Which are, of course, extremely sharp and a very effective cutting tool but they do have drawbacks. They do not have a very strong blade so heavy cutting will require something more substantial, such as a Stanley Knife, and the blades do not remain keen for very long.

Most of the time it's only the tip that is used to cut, so if you run the back over some wet n dry you can keep the point/tip sharp.

 

[Bunkerbarge]

Bunkerbarge: 1) Knife. I spent most of my modelling life using surgical scalpels. Which are, of course, extremely sharp and a very effective cutting tool but they do have drawbacks. They do not have a very strong blade so heavy cutting will require something more substantial, such as a Stanley Knife, and the blades do not remain keen for very long.Most of the time it's only the tip that is used to cut, so if you run the back over some wet n dry you can keep the point/tip sharp.

I don't know how many times a scalpel blade has 'pinged' across the room because I was trying to cut too big a lump of sprue with it!!

 

[Graeme Brumfitt]

Yep bin there! no amount of sharpening can bring them babys back.

 

[IrishDerek]

Pastels

I've started modelling again a few years ago after a break of 25 years. I have come across many mentions of "pastels" and their use in "ageing" and "weathering" the finished model. Could someone please tell me: What are pastels? and how are they best employed?

Many thanks

Derek

 

[Bunkerbarge]

Pastels are basically a solid block of colour that can probably best be likened to a square section stick of chalk but much much denser in colour.

You can either rub them on sand paper and make a coloured powder, draw directly on your model and spread with a brush, apply the powder with a brush, mix the powder with water or thinners to make a wash etc..etc.. The possibilities are endless.

They are a very versatile source of colour that only your imagination can limit the ways in which you can apply them. Buy a set and enjoy, they really are great fun to use!!

Don't forget pastels are only one method of applying colours for a weathering effect, there are also washes, pigments, dry brush effects, paint chips etc Use any combination of them to achieve the effects you are after.

 

[rjwood_uk]

can i just add that make sure that if you do go out and buy pastels you get normal ones and not "oil pastels"

oil pastels can work but have completely different porperties and cannot be used with water for a wash (but a decent white spirit can do the job)

also, pastels are expensive. but worth it. individually they can range from 50p - £2 and a decent set will set you back £20 odd.

Richard

 

[matti_646]

The pastels suitable for weathering are "soft pastels". "The Works" sell small sets of pastels for £2.99 or £.99 in various "themes" the one that's best for weathering is called something like "autumn" or "earth" colours and is browns greys etc. Better value that shelling out for a larger set which is largely surplus....