Evolution of a U.S. Fleet Boat Conning Tower, 1:24

J

johnpipe108

Guest
I just made up a dimensioning rule on craft-paper, by taking the hull diameter from the print in the background. I divided it down with a compass for accurate measurements, then used it to get the approximate measure of goods represented in the drawing. First goods to be made up are the tin blanks for the below-decks access hatches, shown next to their approximate locations shown on the print. Masked with 1/4" Tamiya masking tape for 1/8" all round in preparation for painting. The centers will be painted linoleum-green to match the decks:



Also thought I'd toss in some odd ends; the manual (emergency) operating lever for the main air induction valve:



The bridge has acquired the port-side step (but I really should have been patient and painted it first!):



That's all for now, Regards,

John
 

geegad

Can't cheat fate..
Joined
Mar 7, 2010
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John
super work as always buddy
 
A

AVB99

Guest
True modelling! A combination of woodwork. metalwork, electronics, mechanical engineering and much more. Enviable skils. Thank you for sharing these. Well done sir!
 

mossiepilot

A learner learning
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Jul 17, 2011
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Tony
Top work John, looking forward to more.

Tony.
 
J

johnpipe108

Guest
Periscope Hoisting Motor has had a brainstorm! It finally occured to me that I had some old sewing machine spools, which are just right for the cable-hoist drums! I need to make an axle-shell, and that problem will have been solved. Motor (Tamiya 3v. gearbox) housing and cable are ready for airbrushing. Portside lift will be used instead of starboard, as it needs to be out of the line of sight thru the viewports in to the tower.



And close in on the spools ("cable" is 100lb test fishline):



I need to fix up the pulley-bracket, and some guide to keep the "cable" from slipping from the pulley while spooling, and of course it all has to line up close-enough to the periscope standard, where the lifting pulleys will be installed. Going to be a bit of work, but I can see it evolving. Got the only logical idea for the top limit switch to stop the scope at the top of lift, bottom switch is already done.

Regards, John
 
J

johnpipe108

Guest
Water-tight door, with first operating handle. Ball-ends are from key-chain bead, CA adhesive on end of 1/32 rod, with length of 1/16 tube adhered over that, and rod trimmed leaving stub for other bead after inserting through hub (also of tubing, 3/32 and 1/8). Body of 1/8 basswood, other wooden details of 1/32 hobby ply. Assembled handle sits over 1/16 tube axle through door. Once the opposite side has been painted, the viewport can be "glassed" by a bead of Crafter's Pick adhesive, which dries clear and similar to silicone rubber in consistency, makes good clear windows on very small scale models in general.

It took me quite a while before I figured out how to make the handle; I used an older style as seen in "Destination Tokyo."

Regards, John
 
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