MRP Paint - Detailed Review

Discussion in 'Product Reviews' started by BarryW, Aug 24, 2017.

  1. BarryW

    BarryW SMF Poster

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    About MRP Paint:
    These are solvent based acrylic paints designed for the airbrush. It should be noted that they are soon to launch a water based version under the Aqua label. This review is only for the solvent based paints.

    These paints are compatable with Gunze Mr Color range and Tamiya paints using a laquer/alcohol based solvent. The colour range is extensive and growing fast and 50 colours are apparently being released in September 2017 and their plans include the release of WW2 Italian and Japanese (IJN/IJA) colours.

    The colour range currently includes:
    Clears, metalisers and primers
    AFV colours for Germany, Israel, Syria, Czech, USSR vehicles
    Aircraft colours for all the above countries plus the RAF, Sweden and Ukraine
    Included are comprehensive ranges for WW2 combatents, RAF, Luftwaffe, USAAF/USN, USSR plus WW1 aircraft colours.

    The paints are airbrush ready - very thin with an almost ink-like consistency and a very fine pigment, much finer than Model Air. They clean up with Mr Levelling Thinner or Mr Tool Cleaner, or i.p.a. or their own thinner.

    I recommend that if you need to thin them that you use the Mr Levelling Thinner (MLT) but clean up with i.p.a. because, if you buy it in a large quantity, several litres at a time, from Amazon, you can get it a lot cheaper than MLT. Be careful about storage though and I suggest syphoning it out into 2 litre water bottles for use. https://www.amazon.co.uk/ISOPROPANO...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VQH6YN7KSZ0DKPWG019N

    Packaging:

    They are in 30ml glass bottles with steel agitators. The agitators are needed as the pigments do settle and need a lot of shaking. Thanks to the glass bottles you can see if the pigment is fully dissolved and also see how much paint is left. The neck of the bottles is quite narrow making pouring easy(ish), I do recommend using disposable pipettes though.

    Another tip: I recently obtained 500 pipettes through Amazon at a cost of less than £10, under 2p each. A lot cheaper than buying in smaller quantities, for me a 90% saving on buying small packs.
    https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B009WQML82/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Another tip: Consider getting, again from Amazon, a bottle shaker to mix the paint. It is well worth the cost as a bottle can be mixed thoroughly while you get on with something else. There is a brand designed for modellers but if you cannot find that then get a 'nail varnish shaker' off Amazon. It works well, yes it costs a few bob and it does have a pink label, but it works and is well worth the cost and getting your leg pulled by the missus....
    https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_s...aps&field-keywords=nail+varnish+bottle+shaker

    All colours are clearly labelled and are quite specific to subject which is a great help when deciding what paint to use. Examples include 'red chassis cover for SU27, SU35 and SU37' - yes they are THAT specific.... No confusion with this range.

    They are also labelled with RLM, RAL, FS and BS number among others where appropriate.

    How do they spray?
    I have been using Vallejo Model Air for nearly 6 years now and more recently I have used AKI water based acrylics as well. When I first tried VMA it was a revelation having previously struggled with Humbrol enamels and acrylics. I loved them and they helped me to master the airbrush. But these water based paints do have their problems that are well known.

    I am just completing my first build using MRP and from now on I will be using only these. These paints are as big an advance in my airbrushing as it was when I changed to VMA. My confidence with the airbrush has grown and I now feel I can do so much more than I could with VMA.

    All the colours I used in my build, RAF Dark Green, Medium Sea Grey, Interior Green, Signal Red, RAF Marking Yellow dried in minutes to a glossy, hard, robust finish. I also used the Black and Yellow primers and these too behaved beautifully, with a 'satin' finish. I also used their Semi Matt, Matt, Gloss and Semi Gloss varnishes.

    I sprayed at about 12-15 psi but I recommend that you experiment with your own airbrush to see how best to use them.

    They work best if laid down in thin multiple coats with the airbrush relatively close to the model.

    If you make a mistake - nil desperandum.... this paint forgives you.

    I had no tip drying, no splatter, even after 45 minutes spraying. Even after 8 colour changes....

    I cannot wait to do a Luftwaffe mottle - I think I could even manage that night fighter squiggle camo that I could not even consider attempting with VMA.

    I once forget to adjust the air pressure and sprayed at 30psi - no problem. Another time I sprayed from too far away so the pigment hit the model dry. Sandpaper finish, not not with these the pigment is just too gine for that, it in fact felt smooth to the touch and I could only see what happened due to it having a matt finish. Tip: if that happens, just spray a light coat, or two if necessary, of Mr Levelling Thinner, it reactivates the paint, smooths and levels it to the glossy finish it should be.

    Speaking if finishes - I was astonished at just how smooth this paint felt to the touch. Indeed try that MLT trick and you can get an even smoother, shinier finish.....

    In fact the finish is perfect for applying enamel ot water based washes to which it is resistent. No need to gloss varnish for that, or for the decalling. I only gloss varnished to seal in the decals and using the MRP varnish it is very thin and has all the other benefits of this paint.

    One thing - try not to flood the surface of a model when you are painting over another colour. The solvent can lift the base colour and ruin the finish. Always use light coats.

    What I love about this paint is how thin it is. So much thinner than VMA. It really enhances the detail of a model and it also etches into the surface creating that robust finish. If a paint brings out the detail that means it also bring out imperfections in your build....... Speaking of which:
    You can actually see the paint etching the plastic through the paint. This is no problem and not noticable on the inside of a model but on the outer surfaces it is best to lay down a primer coat. Its good practise to do so anyway and you really need to deal with the imperfections in the build before painting. I recommend treating the build as is you are doing a NMF finish.

    What about brush painting?
    No good at all..... But, you can touch up with a brush if you need to but take care and do this......
    Place a drop of the paint into a dish and leave it for a few minutes for most of the solvent to evaporate thickening the paint. Apply it with a small brush, delicately, I do it with a dabbing motion. Do not risk lifting the base coat. Ideally use the airbush to touch up if you can, with localised masking, but for very small touch-ups this method does work.

    So what about the cost, they are expensive to buy after all?
    There is a big difference between cost and value and we need to look at the cost carefully to judge value.

    To purchase I obtained my supply at a cost of £4.89 per bottle and this compares to £2.21 for Vallejo, £2 for Mr Color, £1.75 for Tamiya. But I believe MRP offers significantly better value and a lower long term cost. How come?

    MRP bottles are 30 ml, Vallejo 17 ml and Mr Color/Tamiya 10 ml.
    This works out at a cost comparision for 30 mls as follows:
    MRP £4.89
    Vallejo £3.90
    Mr Color £6.00
    Tamiya £5.26
    On that basis only Vallejo is cheaper - but Mr Color and Tamiya need thinning to be airbrush ready so lets do another calculation. Assuming Mr Color is thinned with Mr Levelling Thinner at £10.95 for 400 mls and Tamiya with X20A at £5.39 for 250 mls at a ratio of 50:50 the figures work out as follows.
    Airbrush Ready - per 30 mils
    Tamiya £2.95
    Mr Color £3.41
    Vallejo MA £3.90
    MRP £4.89

    So - that is a fairer comparison and MRP still looks expensive - but what about value...

    I do not have experience of Tamiya and Mr Color but I have seen builds with them and I have seen one or two coats of varnish being used prior to washes and decalling. I have used VMA and I know that you really need to lay down two varnish coats before these operations.

    You do not need to lay down these gloss varnish coats with MRP. You only need a single sealing coat over the decals.

    I will add though that MRP may react to decal softener, this is something I am checking out and will post more about later.

    Not needing to apply these varnish coats is a 'hidden' cost saving that I cannot quantify.

    In additon, spraying MRP at a low psi in thin coats I found that I am getting better coverage than with VMA, I estimate that I used between 30% and 40% less paint. Another saving that I cannot quantify. In addition, of course, this is very much about the airbrusher as it is the paint. I also do not have the experience with Tamiya or Gunze to compare on this basis.

    I am confident, however, that MRP represents a long term cost saving for me compared to VMA.

    I therefore would suggest that MRP offers the best value for money.
     
    dave, Doug Hughes and Jens Andrée like this.
  2. BarryW

    BarryW SMF Poster

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    To Summarise
    As a previously dedicated Vallejo Model Air user what I love about these paints and why I am switching:

    Their forgiving nature when you make a mistake
    The thin pigment providing a beautiful smooth finish
    The ease of spraying without blockage or tip drying
    Their robustness when handled and masked
    How quick they dry - no more waiting for 24 hours or more to cure, no worries about humidity affecting drying time.
    They speed up my builds
    They clean up easily, easier than VMA, using cheap ipa
    They give me confidence and extend the range of possibilities with my airbrush
    Value for money, in spite of the purchase price.
    The clear, unambigious labelling with specific colours and the wide and ever widening range
    The clear glass bottles with agitators to mix and the ability to see the paint

    Yes - there are things I dont like:
    They do smell, you do need to have windows open and spousal complaints will arise if you do not keep doors closed etc.
    I would prefer an eye dropper style bottle top.

    Errrr - nothing else wrong with them at all.....

    Finally:
    A word about their new Aqua range.
    Apparently they will be mirroring the shades they have in the solvent range. These are apparently designed to enable brush painting as well as airbrush use and brush touch ups of the solvent equivalent shades. So there is a place for them and maybe, just maybe, they have hit on a formula that reduces the downside of water based acrylics. We shall see.

    Links:
    Other reviews:


    https://doogsmodels.com/2015/11/27/test-drive-mr-paint/

    http://imodeler.com/2015/06/mrpaint-the-best-thing-which-can-be-for-modeling-paints/

    http://workshoprecord.blogspot.co.uk/2016/02/mr-paint-review-and-decal-test.html

    Other links:
    MRP site: http://www.mrpaint.sk/

    UK supplier (please John - can you stock?)
    http://www.hmhobbies.co.uk/

    Ushi who has lots of useful tips and suggestions:
    https://www.uschivdr.com/shopping-c...ts-pigments-primer/mr-paint-superfine-inks-1/
     
    john i am, John Rixon, dave and 2 others like this.
  3. papa 695

    papa 695 SMF Poster

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    Thank you Barry for the the very useful and in-depth review, I will give them a try.
     
  4. Doug Hughes

    Doug Hughes SMF Poster

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    Thanks Barry - you've put a lot of effort into this review and it's really informative'
     
  5. Gwyn

    Gwyn SMF Poster

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    Well done Barry, a very detailed review that will be of use to many of us modellers.
     
  6. John Rixon

    John Rixon SMF Poster

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    Thorough and in-depth review indeed! I've also watched the Flory video, and he seems pretty sold on them too. I'm a little confused though - the Acrylic, in acrylic paints, refers to the liquid/binder in which the pigments are suspended, not the pigments. How can they call these acrylic lacquer? It's a bit like saying "oil based watercolours"!!
     
  7. BarryW

    BarryW SMF Poster

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    John - my understanding is that the acrylic refers to the pigment which can be suspended in either solvent or a water based medium.
     
  8. John Rixon

    John Rixon SMF Poster

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    Mmmm, pigments are either organic or synthetic, as far as I'm aware, there's no pigment made from acrylic, as it is inherently transparent ;) . I noticed in the Flory Rreview, that he mentioned this, which piqued my attention (being an unashamed paint geek!). It's a similar paradox to Tamiya paints, which (the irritating pedant in me) I don't consider acrylic. I'm wondering if there are H&S regs someone is trying to ride above with this nomenclature. Did you get a technical sheet with thes paints? I'm certaily going to get a couple of bottles and have a play, but I worry about the fumes, and as a beardy bloke, most respirators are all but useless:confused:.
     
  9. Jens Andrée

    Jens Andrée Active Member

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    Fantastic and thorough review Barry!
    Especially the part about thinners and solvents for thinning and cleaning!
    This can be really tricky to get right when trying a new paint so I thank you for doing all that hard work for us. :)

    For a short while I thought Mr.Paint wasn't going to work for me after all since I use a lot of brush and not just airbrush, but your information about the Aqua range solved that problem.
    You have to buy two jars instead of just one when using mixed techniques I guess, but paint is just a consumable, and I'd prefer to have two different versions to do their thing the best way rather than having one product that does both ok-ish.

    I love Tamiya paints but their jars drive me mad... First they are tiny. Really tiny! Do a big model and one jar isn't enough sometimes. They're also really terrible to pour into the airbrush.
    I've resorted to buying separate mixer bottles, dropper type like AMMO and AK, just so I can add a couple more drops when needed without accidentally spilling a whole jar over the project... Did that a few weeks ago and it was a real mess to clean!
    Mr.Paints bottles looks better than Tamiyas jars, but not as good as the dropper bottles from AMMO and AK imho.

    If the forum had a "donate a pint by clicking here" I would've clicked it already! ;)
     
  10. BarryW

    BarryW SMF Poster

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    Decal update

    I said in the review that I would report back once I tried applying decals and decal setting/softening solutions.

    First of all I found the wonderfully smooth surface ideal for applying decals. This surface is a lot smoother that I have experienced with VMA plus gloss varnish. It is not as glossy as VMA with two varnish coats but that does not matter. Silvering is caused by air trapped between the decal and the surface of the model, a gloss varnish helps resolve that because a matt surface is not totally smooth by definition. The surface of the MRP paint is so totally smooth it does not matter that it is less glossy than varnish, but it is certainly glossy enough. When applying decals it is easily moved across the surface into position even when you have soaked up most of the setting solution/water. The downside is that it is more prone to move when you are 'squeeezing' the water from under the decal with your cotton bud, it just means being more careful.

    I applied Mr Setting solution and Mr Softener with no ill effects to the paint. There was a bloom but that was no more than dried solutiuon easily wiped off with a damp cotton bud.

    I further confirm that you can use enamel and water based washes direct on the surface of MRP without problems. I would not rub too hard though when removing surplus as you cannot be too careful.

    Consequently I can also confirm that using MRP saves a couple of coats of varnish, a hidden cost saving which is also a time saving as well.

    I would suggest a single gloss coat to seal in the decals though before a wash. But if you are using masks or there are no significant decals in the way then don't bother with gloss.
     
    dave likes this.
  11. Jens Andrée

    Jens Andrée Active Member

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    Barry - one question:
    Do you know if MRP will make more AFV colours or are they mostly focusing on aircraft?

    I've sat down and mapped all the important colours for me but there's quite a few missing like some greens and cremeweiss e.g.
    Some I can probably mix but for consistency, and simplicity, but it'd be a whole lot better if I could just buy the colours I need. (and adjust these with white/dark colours when needed)

    As you know I'm keen on using bigger bottles than Tamiyas 10 ml ones and you've convinced me that Mr. Paint is the way to go ;)

    Thanks in advance!
     
  12. BarryW

    BarryW SMF Poster

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    I dont know Jens but I expect so. They have been increasing the range very quickly.
    Have you search by using the sort on their own website:
    Here is a link to the AFV page and you can see further searches by country as well:
    http://mrpaint.sk/farby/bojova-technika
     
  13. Jens Andrée

    Jens Andrée Active Member

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    Thanks for the reply Barry.
    Yes, I've searched their website. I've even made an Excel spreadsheet to match all their colours with my Tamiya and AMMO paints and that's when I discovered that AFV colours were less represented by MRP than aircraft ones.
    I've found most of the important ones but a few, still important, ones were missing and nothing even close, like greens and cremeweiss.

    I could send them an email and ask? That's probably the best method for knowing for sure if they will be released or not.
    I'm still going to try MRP but it would be nice to replace as much as possible.
     
  14. BarryW

    BarryW SMF Poster

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    True Jens. I hear that they are very responsive to enquiries and to be fair to them they have been releasing colours at quite a fast rate. 50 this month to come I understand! The Syrian AFV colours were introduced only recently for instance and I would have thought that WW2 German would be a priority.
     
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  15. Builder

    Builder SMF Poster

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    Superb review Barry. You have covered off on pretty much every aspect. Thanks for the update on the decals. It seems MRP is the new standard for model paints going forward.
     
  16. BarryW

    BarryW SMF Poster

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    I quite agree Bob - they are the ones to beat...
     

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