Part 1 Supermarine Spitfire MkVb

PhilJ

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#81
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Hi all and well disaster really ( I never really thought the deep sea blue sat right with the spitfire and it just looked at me and said I'm not wearing the correct colours ( my error ) so back to stage 1 of the painting process
I have made a good start on the removal with IPA and well it's start again!!


The azure blue is still masked and not damaged ( I'm hoping )


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Blimey Robert! Gutted for you mate. I have just been through the entire build again and really appreciate the work and effort your putting in, not just with the build but with thread also, really enjoyable and informative.


Just a couple of things I'd like to say which I hope you don't mind, I don't feel like I'm in a place to criticise much as I'm still a relative newbie really. However I have found with the burnt umber washes on the cockpit I use a Windsor and Newton oil which is mixable with water (purchased from the range or hobbycraft I think) I put a tiny dab on a palette and load in the de ionised water so it's a transparent browny water. I then apply these thinly and let them do their thing, if you want it heavier you just build it up and because it's so thin it drys fairly quick. Also with your scheme try thinning the paint down and build the colour up slowly especially with your build specific "overspray", from what it sounds like these weren't done perfect so if it was me I'd probably like to finish it with a washy kind of effect and the original colour almost showing through in places. I would imagine the ground crew trying to get a overspray done with sea air and sand in the air it was not the best conditions to lay paint down and probably a bit of a pain.


Keep going mate


Phil
 

papa 695

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#82
Just caught up on this one Robert and your doing a great job, it's not easy masking for the camo no matter what medium you use, and your learning on the job so to speak. I can't remember how many times I've had to strip a kit down not being happy with the paint job, but it's something we can do. Keep at it top work mate.
 

Robert1968

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#83
Well finally got round to getting some more cleaning done a quick coat of stynylrez and when dry I put down the dark earth


Good point you made there Ian on the overspray. This time I'm going straight for the EDSG or Tamiya XF 54 once I worm the spit up again. There will be gaps which I'm going to diliberatly make to emphasise wear so the mid stone will show through ( hard to describe but I hope you understand what I'm up to.I have left the wing a bit patchy so this will emphasise wear and tear from heat and salt air damage ( what I'm hoping to do )


Next it sausage time ( Again )


Oh and I sprayed with my new A/b ( I promised John I'd plug it ( it's around £16 and has a crown capped nib ) sprays lovely and if you don't take my word for it ask Graham ( it's really the doggies stuff and cheap too!!!


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SWR

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#84
And he's off..Again;).


Here's hoping it turn's out better for you this time.
 

Robert1968

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#85
Well I'm happy with the result this time


I did the full spit dark earth then did the worming and then sprayed XF54 deep sea grey


Once removed masking the spit looked a lot batter and more acceptable.


Had to touch up the underside with azure and then I started to weather the front of wings and panels with mid stone. I've still tried to emulate the overspray of deep sea grey over the mid stone that took place anthe wear and tear of the damage to the temp overspray


To be honest I'm rather pleased with this up to now


Still need to do wing walk chipping and once that's done I'll give a coat of clear then start the oils ( I think )


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Fenlander

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#86
This is looking better Robert. If there is no concrete evidence of what was used, go with what looks right. I often go with what looks right even if there is concrete evidence lol.


Good to hear a second opinion on the airbrush, I have done more with mine in the last couple of months than I have done with the Ultra as long as I have had it. If it fell to bits tomorrow, I would just order another one. Not that it will..... I hope...... :oops: Naaa, 'course it won't :D
 

Robert1968

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#87
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This is looking better Robert. If there is no concrete evidence of what was used, go with what looks right. I often go with what looks right even if there is concrete evidence lol.
Good to hear a second opinion on the airbrush, I have done more with mine in the last couple of months than I have done with the Ultra as long as I have had it. If it fell to bits tomorrow, I would just order another one. Not that it will..... I hope...... :oops: Naaa, 'course it won't :D
I agree Graham


I have had lots of one to ones with Steve ( resident spitfire Ace ) and he has given me great feedback.


The idea is to have the Spitfire as it was in operations over Malta. The overspray was done over the mid stone so I've emulated the spray coming off in places and a little overspray over the dark earth.


I'm in process of chipping the wing roots as they were stood on a lot and with boots etc this area would get worse damage ( human with boots etc )


Once this is done I'll go for a klear coat before the decals and oils.


The A/ b is brilliant if the truth be known it's done all the respray for me and cleans a dream too.


Think I'm going to get me another for spare, do you think it's best to give it a couple of A/ b oil every 10/20 uses?


I read this somewhere to keep A/b working well?


Regards


Robert
 

stona

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#88
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Think I'm going to get me another for spare, do you think it's best to give it a couple of A/ b oil every 10/20 uses?


I read this somewhere to keep A/b working well?
Save your money and use WD40. I've been doing it for years. Smear a little on the needle from time to time and when you do a disassembly and clean, squirt a little through the brush. Don't forget to flush with some of your regular airbrush cleaner afterwards.


I haven't stripped my primary airbrush since I started my tropical Bf 110, which means I've now completed three models without doing more than flushing between colours and applying a little WD 40 to the needle occasionally. Regular routine cleaning like this prevents having to take the things to bits every time you use them.


Cheers


Steve
 
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Robert1968

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#89
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Save your money and use WD40. I've been doing it for years. Smear a little on the needle from time to time and when you do a disassembly and clean squirt a little through the brush. Don't forget to flush with some of your regular airbrush cleaner afterwards.
I haven't stripped my primary airbrush since I started my tropical Bf 110, which means I've now completed three models without doing more than flushing between colours and applying a little WD 40 to the needle occasionally. Regular routine cleaning like this prevents having to take the things to bits every time you use them.


Cheers


Steve
This is going to sane me loads as I got lots of that WD 40 in the garage


Brilliant news
 

Fenlander

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#90
Never used WD40 but I did get a free tube of Iwata Supelube years ago at one of the shows, can't remember how I skanked it..... But it is a tiny tube and based on what I have used to date, it will last me about five more years.


All I tend to do after flush cleaning, I still have not removed the actual nozzle from this brush yet, is remove the needle, clean it and just put a tiny drop of Superlube into the needle chuck hole. I then gently slide the needle back in place which has the effect of creating a very thin coat down the length of the needle. I mainly do this as a precaution of the needle sticking in the rear seal.


I am thinking of getting another with a .3mm needle set which I would fit straight away to the new one. This would give me a separate brush for priming and varnishing and a spare .2mm needle set for the original unit.
 

PhilJ

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#91
In agreement with the guys Robert, this looks better mate great recovery, it's a tricky thing your trying to do emulating that overspray. You've inspired me, I'll almost definitely being doing this with my Airfix new tool spit mkVb


Keep going mate we want more!


Phil
 
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Robert
#92
Hi guys and sorry for the long gaps but been really bust with work lately and not much time on the table but here's the updates


Disaster!!!


The Spit Vb was all done nice and painted etc. Just needed another coat of clear ( that's when it all went wrong.


I gave it a nice coat of clear wel mixed and thinned and in the morning after letting it cure it was a ghost and decals and paint messed up, it was to be a simple coat then a wash


I tried cleaning it up but it is just ********


I shall say this humbrol clear is just...... Well let's say it's now in the bin with the spit.


I tried to clean it up with IPA and start again but well let's say it's not going to happen.


The wife was a bit disappointed too


I think I have a couple of pics before that damn clear touched it


Question : I still have the Vc to do but should I get another Vb?


( I'm so angry at myself and humbrol right now


Anyway this is what I had done until the clear messed it up


Regards


Robert


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SWR

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#93
I feel for you Robert.


It seems to be one disaster after another.


One question,why were you thinning humbrol clear and what with?.


It does not need to be thinned.And I think that could have been the problem.
 
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#94
I'm with Ralph mate, Humbrol Clear should be used straight from the bottle - no mixing or thinning.


It's a shame that this disaster befell you, but hopefully the next one will be ok :smiling3:
 
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Robert
#95
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I feel for you Robert.
It seems to be one disaster after another.


One question,why were you thinning humbrol clear and what with?.


It does not need to be thinned.And I think that could have been the problem.
Thanks Ralph ( always great to get words from a great )


The Humbrol clear ( bottle ) shook the hell out of it for a good 20 minutes, poured out bit into a clean ramikin dish and I then used white spirit in a seperate dish and thinned maybe 2 drops 3 if that mixed thoroughly with brush and cleaned brush before attempting to put on model. Even strokes and with the direction of airflow.


Left overnite to dry ( 2 days actually as been very busy at work ) came back to a ghost literally as the model was white and the decals had lifted and the varnish got under that too. The clear ( says it's clear is actually milky white and even shaking the crap out of it it don't do a damn so it went in the bin.


I was really p........ Off as you could imagine as I thought I had done a very acceptable Vb!


Well I was thinking a Me109 F2 ( not sure if they were available in 1942 though however I have no cockpit glass for that one. Oh well the joys of modelling.


Robert
 

SWR

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#96
And there you have it.


Humbrol Clear is an acrylic and you added white spirit:eek:.That is why it F%%%ed up.


It is best to use clear, neat and without thinning.
 
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Robert
#97
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And there you have it.
Humbrol Clear is an acrylic and you added white spirit:eek:.That is why it F%%%ed up.


It is best to use clear, neat and without thinning.
You live and learn ( or not ) it's not coming out of bin though


Cheers Ralph


Regards


Robert
 

SWR

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#98
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You live and learn ( or not ) it's not coming out of bin though
Cheers Ralph


Regards


Robert
We all do stupid thing's Robert;)
 

PhilJ

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#99
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We all do stupid thing's Robert;)
Blimey Robert, where did you get that idea from? That's like trying to put out a fire with petrol!


If your using acrylics you need to stick to acrylic based varnishes. Pledge klear or whatever it's called these days also works really nicely, although I have never tried to brush it on.


I'm gutted for you mate, I say buy another Vb, don't give up mate.


I tell you what, get yourself the airfix new tool Vb I have one in the stash and it looks the nuts, apparently it goes together really well too, I only paid about £18 for it.


Phil
 

Fenlander

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I would try a very, verylight rub over with very fine wet and dry, avoiding the decals then gloss varnish again, it may clear it a bit.
 
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