Spitfire Mk VIII 'Pauline' - Tamiya 1/32

T

Tony

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Barry

That is a fantastic looking model. Those masks you mention don't look very good on the backing sheet do they? To me they seem to have some very large white areas were they have been cut.
 

BarryW

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Tony - The HGW masks are a waste of time, rather like the unusable seatbelts they do. I have other masks for the main marking except for the nose art, they are much better than decals specially in this scale, easier too.

Ian - the Clever Putty is excellent and as you say is similar to Panzer Putty. It is by far the best way to mask camo. One thing I noticed about using them with MRP Paint, the solvent attacks the putty so it is best to leave the putty half an hour after spraying before removing it. It is not a problem if you dont, its just that you may have a little otherwise unnecessary clean up to do.
 

BarryW

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More progress....

Preparing masks for the serial number, roundels and flashes...
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Already masked the outline for the yellow wing leading edge stripes and the exhausts.
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Once I have positioned all the masks I will extend the masking before spraying.

Likely won't get a chance to progress further for a couple of days.... next will be detail painting then some decals....
 
J

John Rixon

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This is beginning to rally look the part Barry, that camo is superb, and clearly shows off the advantages of black basing, I'm sold, and will try this on my zero. Also looking forward to seeing the painted insignia.
 

BarryW

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I managed a fair bit of progress over the weekend, largely therapitic as my mother died on Friday, she was a good age 88 with her quality of life damaged by a stroke 4 years ago, she died peacefully with the family around her. In a way, though he is devastated, it is a relief for my father who insisted on being her carer and it was taking a toll on him. They were married for 64 years and had a good life together. Anyway, life does not stand still....

If you have not used masks then I strongly recommend that you try them. First of all they are easier to use than decals and produce a much better result, specially in a large scale. I got my masks, custom made, from Mal Mayfield who I understand is now semi-retired but there are others around. You cannot all together stop using decals and those I used are Kits World which are the best I have found, being very thin and much less prone to splintering than many others.

Here is a sequence of photos showing the process....
Having applied all the masks I widened the masked are with Tammy tape.
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The Miracle Masks are a semi transparent vinyl which makes placing them easier. Mal Mayfield is quite generous with spare masks and blanks to hold each element together when removing them from the backing paper and placing them on the model.
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Above are the elements that I then removed and placed on the backing sheet to put back later once I have sprayed the first colour.
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The light roundel blue has been sprayed in the centre on all roundels and the tail flashes.
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I sprayed the exhausts MRPs Exhaust Metal after which I did a light spray of Burnt Iron. I love the final look that achieved. There will be some dry brushing and washes to do as well.
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I replaced the centre circles to mask the Light Roundel Blue and the fin flash element. Then I removed the outer circle of the roundles and other fin flash element. before spraying Marking Blue. The serial number was also sprayed black.

Oh - I forgot to mention. I lightly sprayed the yellow ID strip with a yellew primer before spraying that Marking Yellow.

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Above you can see those troublesome underwing roundels look pretty perfect. Always a problem with decal splintering around the uneven surface. It was quite easy with masks though I did have to use two centre elements to make sure it was right.
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The above pics were immediately after removing the masks. As you can see, no runs. Achieved by using a cocktail stick to burinish down the masks. To deal with any slight ridge I wipe a polishing stick over the area lightly. Not that there is much of that with the ultra thin MRP paint. A little on the fin flash only.
Not only do the markings look painted on but they are a lot better for weathering washes.
Some declals were needed.
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Pauline herself, prior to the application of Mr Softener
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The walk lines and stencilling in place, above pictured after an application of Mr Softener. I also masked and painted the red around the gun ports and the red and green wing tip lights.
Panel line washes next.

One great thing about MRP is that I did not need to apply any gloss coats for the decals or washes. It is just not needed given the very smooth shiny finish it provides. I will be doing the first matt coat after I have done the panel line washes.
 

flyjoe180

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Condolences for the loss of your mother Barry.

Your Spitfire is looking fantastic, very nicely applied painted markings and decals.
 

stillp

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My condolences Barry, it's never a good time to lose a parent but this time of year is perhaps the worst.

Pete
 
J

John Rixon

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Condolences for your loss Barry, it's tough losing your mum, and very hard on your father.
 
J

John Rixon

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Those markings look fantastic! I can clearly see the advantages of the MRP here, I reckon it's thinness is what makes this look so realistic. I've always been aware of the scale thickness of paint, and this stuff gets closer to reality than most. I'm guessing that those masks may be very similar to Frisk Film, that we used to use back in the day for doing technical illustrations. Have any of them to go on a compound curve yet?
 

papa 695

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My condolences for the loss of your mother Barry.
Nice work with the painting of the roundels and stencils.
 

stona

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Sorry for your loss Barry. There's not much more I can say.

As for masks, I thought Mal had retired! He did do me a set for my 1/24 Spitfire floatplane a while back and claimed to be knocking it on the head then :smiling3:

I've used masks from Maketar on a few recent efforts, they do kabuki tape and vinyl versions of which I find the vinyl best.

The Spitfire looks superb, looking forward to the finished model.

Cheers

Steve
 

BarryW

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Mal has retired Steve. I got those done about a year ago and he told me then that he was restricting the number of masks he was producing. I agree with you about Maketar, they are excellent as are Montex.

Last night I finished a panel line wash with the AK product. I then did the first matt coat. I will be applying pigments and some dirt streaking before the final matt coat.

here is how she looks now.

IMG_2881.jpg
Dark Earth is one of those colours that is really good to weather. For some reason it seems to respond to washes, dry brushing and pigments taking on a depth of colour that greens and greys dont seem to quite manage. The photo does not capture it as well as I hoped.
 
A

Airfix Modeller Freak

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Another HGW failure. When I was unable to get their fabric seatbelts to work I thought I could at least make use of the canopy masks in the set.

Well, the canopy masks are no use at all.
They comprise of an inner and outer set, something I consider to be an overkill. Well here is the set.
View attachment 290965

You can see that I removed a piece from the ‘outer’ set of masks. Well it did not fit. Indeed I have placed it beside the Tammy masks to compare and, for good measure put the ‘inside’ element next to it as well. You would expect of course the inner one to be smaller but the outer should be the same size as the Tammy.
View attachment 290967
I did not bother to try the other elements in the set. I threw the HGW masks away and used the ones supplied by Tamiya instead.

Do not bother with HGW products. Clearly the issues with this brand is not limited to the difficulty in putting together their fabric seatbelts, they are incapable of actually supplying masks that fit. Perhaps the failures with their seatbelts is not all down to me.
been away for a bit and saw this. Just from my experience, the eduard/hgw fabric seatbelts, in my opinion are fantastic, however, vinyl masks are not ideal. They tend to shrink and pull away. Montex masks tend to do this as well. I only use them for insignia masks. The best masks in the game in my opinion are the eduard masks. They have zero shrinkage and are very user friendly.
This is my 1/32 Bf 109G-2 Black 2 Gunther Rall build in the pit with HGW/eduard fabric seatbelts. As you can see, they can bring out some fantastic results with patience
IMG_2916.JPG

Btw, great job on your spit mk VIII. it's looking amazing so far. I would like to see you do a Grey nurse Australian Mk VIII Spitfire one day. Those schemes look fantastic
Cheers, John
 

BarryW

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Well she is done....
I applied pigments over the first matt coat along with dirt streaking. For the first time I used various shades of MIG Oil Brushers for this which worked very well. I then applied the final matt coat on top of which oil and kerosene leaks were done and paint chipping using Uschi Metal powders.
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The SAC uc legs fitted perfectly.
I will do a Completed thread as soon as I get a chance.
 

BarryW

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I missed a photo that gives a better view of the streaks.
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