The B.... or how to drive yourself to drink avlb project.

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Michael
#1
Accurate Armour over the years have brought us some very welcome models complimented with etch brass and other materials. If you have ever built a resin kit you will know the finished product is not a shake the box and a kit falls out aka Tamiya/Dragon etc.
I bought this kit some time ago as a project for when I retired, that time has come and gone and in the last month I decided it was time to bite the bullet and get started.
Moan time..... The instructions leave a lot to be desired, if you are looking for step by step illustrations, forget it, you are going to spend a lot of time and effort just searching and sometimes the answer will be lurking in one of the few photo's in the instructions.
As with all resin kits there is cleaning up to do, and this kit has it's fair share. There is also a substantial weight to be added to hold the vehicle itself from tipping over. Moan over....
So what is it that drives sane men to drink?????

rear view.jpg

title2.jpg

I should add that the photo's above are for discusion purposes only.
 
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#2
Work started with the hull, the lower hull is from the old Tamiya Chieftain, although I did take a long look at the Takom offering, but stuck to the instructions. And as i stated earlier there is to be added a substantial weight to be located as far back as you can get it. I first cleaned out all of the old motorised locating plastic, and then built a box to hold the weight, side to side and front to back with a lid, you will need it. The hull without any other fittings except the hull top and bottom now weighs in at 388grammes, compared to my Chieftain ARv at 198grammes.
20181105_214938.jpg
As you can see the hinge points have been added, and out of choice I have superglued plastic tube through the hinge holes to make for a smaller fitting pin.
In the centre you can see the triangular fitment with a sanded area, This is one of the problem areas that are not explained too clearly in the instructions. on top of this you fit part 'C' the Aerial Tower, but be very carefull of which way it fits, I sanded and sanded and shaped untill I spotted the photo, then it was build and add........
And that is how the hull sits at the moment.
 
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Michael
#3
A start was made on the bridge lifting arm and relevant pistons etc.
20180801_085705.jpg
The item above the arm is the Launching Pad. This is the lifting arm after trying to clean it up.....
20180801_115401.jpg
......This is it after cleaning and replacing.....
20180801_085331.jpg
And the launching pad.
 
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#4
We now come to what for me nearly ended the project - the Frame Sides. I may have had a rogue pair, but the casting was for want of better words attrocious, this also goes for the Launching Yoke. After several attempts at cleaning up the frames I decided time would be better spent building a whole new frame complete including top and bottom brace's.
20180801_115337.jpg
20180801_115324.jpg
Not only was there flash, and the expected bubbles, but as you can see from the photos above even the frame had not been moulded inline and the corner was a disaster as was the nose of the frame.
20181105_214950.jpg
So it was out with the plastic and scratch....... The AA frame is this shot is the better of the two in the kit - but this is the 'good' side.
 
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#6
Now do not get me wrong, this kit is a work of art and a lot of work has gone into the production, and rather than scratch build a full model and having researched a bridgelayer project of my own I would like to thank all at AA for saving me a lot of work, and this cleaning up etc for me is just part of the job. I have in my collection the Antar complete with trailer - totally different with what looks like minimum work required.
So on with the build.....
Once all of the work on the launching pad and the yoke had been sorted out it was time to start to assemble these items. This is explained fully in the instructions BUT, when you add the hinge plates B7, and you are going to use the #8 bridge there is also an additional plate to be added - I missed that, but it is just a little work to split the plate and bend the hole so that you can add this, then gently bend the plate back to shape. Adding the launching arm mounts, launch pad inner hooks and smoke pods are all explained, and you should end up with something like this.....
20181105_215154.jpg
Which when dry fitted should look like this.....
20181102_163919.jpg
And if you count the squares it will give you an idea about the size...... Where's that bottle......
Cheers
Mike.
 

John Race

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#7
Mike.
Certainly some excellent scratchery on the lifting arms. A great pity when something as complex as this is let down by poor mouldings.
Going to be massive model when finished. :thumb2:

I've decided if I get any crap parts in future that I can remake I will then sent their offerings back, its about time everyone did this as we pay enough for them.

Yours Annoyed of Tunbridge Wells:smiling2::smiling2:
 
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#8
The instructions leave a lot to be desired, if you are looking for step by step illustrations, forget it, you are going to spend a lot of time and effort just searching and sometimes the answer will be lurking in one of the few photo's in the instructions.
That seems about the norm for Accurate Armour’s instructions, from the kits I’ve built and/or own. There’s resin kits with worse instructions, there’s ones with better, but you’ll definitely need references on the real thing as well. Your work is looking good, though :smiling3:
 
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#9
Evening Mike,
Looks like that a real big ‘un you have on your hands! Gonna need a bigger bench:smiling5:
I have utmost faith that you’ll wrestle this into submission....great start already:thumb2:
 
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#11
Hi Mike
Scratching skills working well :thumb2: Probably sticking to the old Tamiya kit is wise. The accuracy of the Takom kit may have been a mixed blessing with regards to the fit of the AA stuff. Gonna need a reinforced display shelf!!
Jim
 
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#12
Dear Annoyed, As your local agony aunt I can sympathise with your plight. As with all agony aunts I have sent you a leaflet to help with your problem.
John I know what you mean and agree with your method of dealing with the sellers, I will be doing the same in future.
Jakko, This has been a long time complaint regarding the instructions and at £50 to £200 a time you would expect better. And as for reference, most of the photos available show the vehicle stowed, but i have enough to go on.
Si, Ian and Jim R, Many thanks for the comments. Si, I mentioned a bigger bench to she who commands and the reply that can be printed went like this - You can tell that Si (unprintable or untranslatable) bigger bench my eye, he has a shed (unprintable or untranslatable). But what she forgot to add was it is full of her decorating items yet to be hung or assembled....
 

John Race

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#13
Dear Annoyed, As your local agony aunt I can sympathise with your plight. As with all agony aunts I have sent you a leaflet to help with your problem.
John I know what you mean and agree with your method of dealing with the sellers, I will be doing the same in future.
Jakko, This has been a long time complaint regarding the instructions and at £50 to £200 a time you would expect better. And as for reference, most of the photos available show the vehicle stowed, but i have enough to go on.
Si, Ian and Jim R, Many thanks for the comments. Si, I mentioned a bigger bench to she who commands and the reply that can be printed went like this - You can tell that Si (unprintable or untranslatable) bigger bench my eye, he has a shed (unprintable or untranslatable). But what she forgot to add was it is full of her decorating items yet to be hung or assembled....
Mike .... Good to read that, I agree with the " at £50 to £200 a time you would expect better. " The thing is if every one sent parts back at some point they would listen, no company like bad press. If I was on FB again I would send a post to them, in full public view, as Cpl Jones would say " They don't like it up them "

1541698992020.png .

John
 
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#14
Update,
The smaller rams were next on the replacement list. To make them operable they are required to be drilled out so that the piston rod can operate. On the first one the wall gave way, and the second followed suit.
20181105_215020.jpg
As can be seen from the above pic..... The two items below these are the start of the replacement rams. Here I have two sizes of aluminium tube - one slides inside the other forming two collars - one each end. This was then coated in car cellulose primer filler (Do this in a well ventilated area, if your eyes roll and you hear the waves beating on the shore - your fault.) which will be shaped once dried.
ram parts.jpg
Working from the centre outwards, you have the now shaped ram bodies, below them are the 'hydraulic pipes' to the left are the small bits of ally tube that the pipes will be fed through. The white discs are the end plates for one end of the ram, above that is the piston shaft (grey tube) which is strengthened with a length of stainless steel tube. And above that are lengths of lead sheet strip cut to match the straps around the rams. The one item missing is the attachment point.
So in quick sequence.
End plates added.
End strap and flange along with attachment point at other end of ram with 'flange'.
Pipe tube holders (small ally tube pieces) 3 in number.
Straps to hold the above tube holders.
'Hydraulic pipe' fed through tube holders and then attached with simulated nuts at each end.
The end of the resin piston was removed from the kit part, a guide hole was then drilled into this, then both the s/steel tube and the grey plastic tube were fed into the ram to find the length and marked. both the plastic tube and the s/steel tube were then cut to length, the s/steel with a cutting disc. This was then assembled with super glue, cleaned up as was the ram and then dry fitted in place.
newramsinplace.jpg
And that is it for this edition.
Cheers,
Mike.
 
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#15
Mike .... Good to read that, I agree with the " at £50 to £200 a time you would expect better. " The thing is if every one sent parts back at some point they would listen, no company like bad press. If I was on FB again I would send a post to them, in full public view, as Cpl Jones would say " They don't like it up them "

View attachment 319056 .

John
LOL:smiling6:
 

John Race

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#17
Mike.
Interesting post and photos, this is what is needed on a forum.
The thing that I find interesting is when guys like you come up with the things like aluminum tube.
I collect bits of packaging for dios, but real scratch builders seem to have a never ending supply of the correct material.
Is there a list, a secret list that you all know ! :flushed:
All I have apart from the dio bits is plastic sheet and some sections, oh and some wire .
Impressed of Stamford.
Jr
 
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#18
Steve,
Many thanks for the comment, it will be a slow cracker I'm afraid, I have not even looked at the bridge yet :tired:.
John R,
No secret list John. I obtain a lot of my items from EMA Model Supplies, I did use Albion Alloys but I have trouble getting to their site - does anyone have a current site address? As an example, on the Cent ARV build I had to send to China for the thin copper sheet I use. I do not know if some people have trouble working out thou from guage even when it is written...... But happy you are impressed.
Cheers
Mike.
 

Pete Low

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He at it again and I for am very pleased, it's education time, great work Mike keep it coming.
Just one thing, Mike got it wrong about the secret list John if you send me £25.00 cash I'll send you a copy of said list.
Pete.
 
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