Trumpeter 1/32 Dauntless

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Barry
#1
This is my second Trumpy 1/32 Dauntless, the first one I built as a USAAF Banshee IMG00819-20120628-0631.jpg
I loved that build and promised myself that I would build a second.

The plastic fit was outstanding, up to Tamiya standards and the kit was let down only by the terrible decals, stiff p.e for the seatbelts and a sagging undercairrage.

Below is the box top:
IMG_3048.jpg
And I am dealing with the issues with these masks and SAC u/c
IMG_3049.jpg
I have decided to build the RNZAF (top)

I am currently trying to find an alternative seat harness.

Tonight I start preparations and hopefully will cut some plastic.
 
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Vaughan
#4
Barry what decals are you going to use? the Dauntless I was building back in 2014 is still on the bench somewhere minus the decals as with good old Trumpeter they fell apart.
 
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#5
Barry what decals are you going to use? the Dauntless I was building back in 2014 is still on the bench somewhere minus the decals as with good old Trumpeter they fell apart.
I am using masks Vaughan.
There are three lots on this page depending on which Dauntless you are building. There are various sets of masks depending on exactly what you want. Worth exploring.
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It is always worth checking out masks for any build, particularly in 1/32 but they look better whatever the scale. I will never use Trumpeter or Tamiya decals as they are so useless.

Another provider are these:
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The great thing with Maketar is the wide range of 'utility' masks and sets of insignia etc that are generic rather than aircraft specific. You can always find so,ething from either of these.

I find masks easier to use than decals anyway.
 
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#8
I have made a start on the internals...

There is a film for the instrument panel and it needs some cutting.
IMG_3053.jpg
It is glued to a transparency, I used Gorilla Glue and when it dries it will be nice and clear
IMG_3054.jpg
My plan is to place a drop of liquid mask on each dial and to then spray black. I will mask with tape the areas that will need to stay black and then spray Zinc Chromate. Once the masking is removed we should have a nice i.p. ready for a little more detail painting and weathering. I might 'glaze' the instruments though, depending on how they look.

Having just finished that Special Hobby I really appreciate the thoughtful engineering of this kit. If it was SH there would be no positive location for the pedals below. These parts just push so well into place with no issues of fit or worry over whether it is in the right place. Given the complexity of the pit with interlocking parts, getting the parts in exactly the right position is crucial.
IMG_3055.jpg

The plastic on Trumpy kits is nice and crisply molded with a few minor seam lines and little or no flash needing only a quick wipe with a sanding stick , file or trim with a knife. All in all this is so refreshing after SH and Revell.

This is how I left it last night.
IMG_3057.jpg

This is a very complex cockpit and there is a lot more to do before we join the fuselage halves.
 
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#9
Fitted the ip and masked the dials with liquid mask using a cocktail stick.
38AD5CDC-0A34-4B0D-A81E-386687E1C1B2.jpeg
I cannot find suitable seat harnesses in the aftermarket so I am using the kit pe.

I am applying some Mr Metal Primer first the prepare the pieces. I am not a fan of pe but now I have some specialist tools it is a lot more manageable.
AA81A2FE-DD90-457A-BDDF-0F3703861B93.jpeg
21FB875D-1AE2-4AAA-80AC-338766847877.jpeg

Test fitting is essential. It is a complex pit with lots of interlocking pieces. As yet I have barely touched the surface of what is going to be inside and making sure the bulkheads are at the right angle is essential. Test fitting and applying some drops of cement to fix the position.
0800067E-B013-4D77-BF9C-0524C1E9A5D4.jpeg

I am priming the interior with black but using sand yellow primer for the seatbelts 37AF4FD8-FDBB-4F5C-A025-5C8C4F605690.jpeg

Primed and ready.
8CFBD19C-ED7D-460F-A990-8C5D7822913E.jpeg