Vallejo primer. What am I doing wrong?

[Gern]

Hi folks. I need some help here.


I normally use Halfords primer which gives an excellent bond so my paint doesn't fall off every time I look at it. I have to use that outdoors obviously so with winter coming I thought I'd try Vallejo Surface Primer which I can spray indoors.


Sprayed a couple of parts, left for a few hours then sprayed with Vallejo paint. I left it overnight and tried to mask it for more painting using Tamiya tape. The tape touched the part in the wrong place so I lifted it to place it correctly and it took off the Vallejo paint and primer right down to the bare plastic.


I could maybe understand if I'd burnished the tape down, but it had barely touched the surface. What am I doing wrong, 'cos I've read that Vallejo primer is usually pretty good?

 

[Razzie43]

I think This has nothing To do with the primer.after Vallejo Paint spray a Matt varnish of Vallejo....you known when You use a brush with tap water It vanish some parts of Paint.so It's easy To retouch with Vallejo.

 

[dubster72]

Well Dave, I'm sure you know what I'd say .... here's a hint - use e*&@#$s!


Just an example - I bought the Vallejo 4BO set to practice on a KV-2. Sprayed it as per the instructions, left the primer on overnight before laying down the 1st colour coat.


Left that overnight, but upon handling the model wearing nitrile gloves I immediately saw the paint & primer was rubbing off!


It's actually taken 2 weeks before I could handle it safely!!



I'm not sold on Model Air as you can tell


So back to your original question, based on your obvious desire to keep smells to a minimum, try using any Tamiya acrylic as a primer - I've done this when I can't use my preferred Poundshop rattle can primer & it works very well. Grips the paint well & its v. durable.

 

[Dave Jay]

Did Patrick mention the E word:eek:...........uh oh............!!!


I have problems with paint no matter what I use.!

 

[Gern]

I'd like to Patrick but even with a mask the fumes get right into my throat. Think I'll have another look at getting an extractor booth. Am I right in thinking that you can manage without a primer when using enamels because that would help a lot?

 

[Gern]

Just had a look at this one:


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Portable-airbrushing-spray-booth-extractor-E420-/401027969615?hash=item5d5f21324f:g:~98AAOSweuxWShbQ


Anyone know if it's OK?

 

[Robert1968]

another good idea for primer in acrylics if not Tamya I have used Revell 43 thinned down with acrylic thinners it's a bit drying when out of a/b but I used a drop of flow reg and it works a treat .


I have found val grey primer not as good as their black even if you shake the hell out of it


It doesn't play well on some plastics and don't like being mixed or used with other products ( strange but that's the Italians for you ( think Vallejo is Italian )


Robert

 

[John Rixon]

Apparently, badgers new primer is the shizzle, but I'd always go for a rattle-can primer, quick, easy and sets rock hard in next to no time. Yes it whiffs a bit, but not anywhere neater as bad as Mr surfacer, or thin cement. Just mask up, hold your breath and let it go, it covers ridiculously quickly, and soon the fumes have gone. Better still, pick a dry day and do it outdoors. Better than cleaning out your airbrush every 20 seconds, or waiting 3 days till it's actually cured properly! There are some things in life that are not to be, fat free crisps, non alcoholic beer and acrylic primer.... I'm being glib now, so ignore me...

 

[John Rixon]

Nothing to see here

 

[Adrian "Marvel" Reynolds]

Just had a look at this one:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Portable-airbrushing-spray-booth-extractor-E420-/401027969615?hash=item5d5f21324f:g:~98AAOSweuxWShbQ


Anyone know if it's OK?

Gern, that's like my extractor but mine has the hose on I can't see if that one comes with it or not, you can buy them separately if need be.


TBH I sold all my Vallejo primers as there more hassle than they're worth, I know lots disagree but having swapped to Stynylrez I have no issues with long drying times or masking issues. Just hope they release a wider range of colours in time


Adrian

 

[dubster72]

I'd like to Patrick but even with a mask the fumes get right into my throat. Think I'll have another look at getting an extractor booth. Am I right in thinking that you can manage without a primer when using enamels because that would help a lot?

Dave, with enamels I generally don't use primer - I've never seen any difference with or without primer. If I'm building an aircraft, then I'll usually hit the fuse seams & wing roots with some Tamiya just to check they're filled and smooth.


Having said that, recently I've been using my Poundshop primer just to see if it gives a smoother finish & also because I'll confess to being influenced by those who advocate priming everything! No names!


A spray booth would be an excellent investment. As was discussed at length on a couple of previous...umm "spirited" threads, all atomised paint is ultimately harmful to ones health.


I built one myself, using a base of MDF, scrap Perspex I sourced on eBay for £5 & a pair of computer muffin fans. Some wire mesh holds the particulate filter & behind the fans is an active charcoal filter to keep whiffs down to a minimum.


Total cost was probably less than a score, it's bigger than the store-bought type & has better extraction

 

[Dave Jay]

Just had a look at this one:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Portable-airbrushing-spray-booth-extractor-E420-/401027969615?hash=item5d5f21324f:g:~98AAOSweuxWShbQ


Anyone know if it's OK?

That's the one I have Dave, got it from the same place, great price, quick service............just get it, it's great, I couldn't do without it. It pulls the paint particles away quickly, filters them and exhausts virtually fresh Air.


I used to use primer from a rattle can on my car bodies, if I masked something up the masking tape would peel the paint and primer off together, I only used tamiya tape.


Now I don't use primer on the shells and paint sticks really well, apart from when I have to strip the paint when I've cocked up with the gloss!

 

[Dave1973]

Depends on the surface you sprayed the primer onto.


Vallejo primer needs to be sprayed on in light coats, and not in heavy coats. If its heavy, it wont cure ONTO the plastic, and will create a skin above the plastic.


Also as imsaid, if the plastic is not clean then it wont work. Needs shaking well, too!

 

[dubster72]

Depends on the surface you sprayed the primer onto.
Vallejo primer needs to be sprayed on in light coats, and not in heavy coats. If its heavy, it wont cure ONTO the plastic, and will create a skin above the plastic.


Also as imsaid, if the plastic is not clean then it wont work. Needs shaking well, too!

I think you left out the human sacrifice which is a necessary part of using Vallejo stuff Dave! :P

 

[John Rixon]

One brand simply cannot fill your every need, end of. Vallejo make pretty decent air-brush acrylic, and their pigments are non too shoddy, but move on for other stuff, AK for washes, tamiya for glue, etc. etc the story goes on! A lot of the stuff you can make yourself, enamels and a drop of odourless thinners make brilliant washes and filters. Cheap acrylics and plaster of Paris / baking powder make brilliant mud, Superdrug hairspray makes brilliant chipping fluid, I could go on...

 

[noble]

Dave try games workshop chaos black, comes in a large can and it covers sooooo well and goes on smooth it even stays on.


Scott

 

[John Rixon]

And if Grumpa can make such awesome dios using simple hobby-shop acrylics, the n we could all learn something from him. There are many modellers out there making pure magic with their imaginations and ingenuity, embrace the diversity and share it. Hippy moment has passed, as you were...

 

[John Rixon]

Damn this malt whisky...

 

[Razzie43]

What I read here is incredible!!


I never have problems with vallejo air and model color.


But i never use a tape on my paint!! (and i don't gonna try now to see what happen :P :D :eek: )


I use plasticine (for kids in colours) if you want a camoflage


After my paint i go directly on with powder of MIG Pigments and i sealed with thinner of Humbrol (nothing else or i have troubles)


Washes from AK and Mig are enamel seals also the paint and again clean it with thinner from humbrol.....

 

[Gern]

I have no intention of moving exclusively to enamels (sorry Patrick!) because I'm happy with the results I get from Vallejo provided I use the Halfords primer first. It's just that I can't use any spray can primer indoors so my painting is very restricted in the winter months. My modelling is slow enough without losing two or three months a year 'cos it's too cold or wet to work outside!


I think I'll get that spray booth and take it from there. I'll have the option then to use either sort of paint and maybe even a spray can indoors if the booth works well enough.Thanks everyone for the quick replies.