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I've got some of the Tamiya weathering kits and haven't really used them that much, I know you can get good results using them but I've never managed to do anything to write home about, I don't see why you can't use the cheap makeup kits, they do look very similar, as for pigments I use matt varnish to apply them, and you can use pastels as pigments but you need to get it really fine

The sort of questions you have asked could take a book each to answer so the best way is probably to point you in the right direction so that you can do some further research yourself to obtain more detail.

1) The cheapest and most widely used alternatives to pigments are artist pastels. Rub them on a piece of sandpaper to generate a coloured powder which can be used in just the same way as pigments. You can also use the powder paints that kids use in school, usually quite cheap but you probably have to buy rather a large quantity from an artist suppliers. Don't forget you can mix powders just as you can colours.

2) The ladies make up packs are usually an oil based material and so you could end up with problems trying to use them. I would test a sample from a kit that some femail member of your family is prepared to lend you but I doubt they will be very successful.

3) The technique is exactly the same for whatever subject you are applying it to. Dry brushing is dry brushing however the variables are the type of paint you are using, which is usually determined by what you are applying it to. Matt surfaces take the effects considerably better but the effect is best used for such things as clothing, where a slightly lighter version of the base colour gives a highlight or worn paint effects where you might drybrush a metallic grey to simulate worn paint. As with everything else experiment with scraps to see what effects you can generate.

4) The solvent you use for your wash will usually depend on the base paint you are applying it over. The rule of thumb is to use a different solvent so that it does not disturb the base colour. If I was putting a wash over matt enamel you could use either a water based wash or an oil paint based wash. You can also use a water based wash over a gloss paint, add a spot of washing up liquid to break the water surface tension and allow it to flow, which is particularly useful for things like aircraft panel lines where you want no wash at all on the rest of the panelling.

Bottom line, think of washes as enhancing shadows and dry brushing as enhancing highlights, although this is not a hard and fast rule but it is a useful guidance.

I use artists pastels which i bought from a shop called the works, they cost me £5.00 and you get every colour under the sun and they last for ever they work great too. i use these in three ways first dry, brush grind them to a powder then simply brush on. Second wet a brush with a little tamiya thinner and apply this way good for simulating rust streaks etc. Third i have bought the mig resign add some of the desired colour to the resign mix e.g brown for mud and apply this with a mixing stick to areas such as wheels and running gear. When it comes to weathering less is usually more, as for making washes the paint you use will dictate the kind of solvant you need e.g if your using oils i mix them with turpentine to thin the paint i use Tamiya acrylics so i use their own brand thinner to thin them etc.
scott

Dry brushing works on anythingbe it figures, tanks, ships cars etc.

Originally Posted by Hunty22

Question. If I have painted in Tamiya acrylic, and done a couple of coats of Kleer, can I use an oil wash, oil paint mixed with turps?

Steve

yes you can as the klear seals the paint youcan use oil washes using turps.
scott