Greyhead

Nice work Dave, with those carbon fibre tows I wouldn't mind betting it's a fair bit stronger than the original!!

Grahame

orion1210

Hi,

Your fuz repair thread has really helped me since i snapped my pat teakle ASW17 fuz in the same place.

Just wondering what paint you used for priming and final spraying... did you get a good colour match??

PLease post a pic of finished article.

Many Thanks

Ben

Glider Guider

Ben

The fuselage is awaiting better weather before I spray but I'm going to use Halfords aerosol White Primer and Spectrum top coat. When spraying I use fast thinner from the local motor factors for Spectrum and Solarlac as it’s a thousand times cheaper and works just fine. I give a couple of coats of primer which is rubbed down, then give it a quick flash over with black and rub down, by doing this you can see the imperfections as black marks which can be given a bit of filler or rubbed out.

Unless you know the original paint you'll struggle to get an exact match in white, I'm going to re-spray the whole model not just the damaged areas. You might get away with a close matching paint between fuselage and wings but I doubt that just spraying the tail section will give satisfactory results but try it and see if it stands out, you can always continue with the rest of the fuselage if it doesn’t work.

I will be posting a photo when it is finished.

I’m please my article has helped you - it makes it all worth the while.

Glider Guider

I saw my first swallow today over Swithland Reservoir in Leicestershire which means that the spraying season can’t be far away. The PIK 20 fuselage is going to be boring white so I dusted it off and gave the areas of repair a quick flash of black paint.

Why? This is then removed with wet & dry and all the minor imperfections that are normally invisible until you have just applied the final coat become easy to see and fix with a dab of acrylic stopper.

It was as I sanded away the black paint that I realised my mistake – the black paint doesn’t show up at all on the carbon tows I used for the repair, so after that stopping is applied and rubbed down I’ll give it a coat of a different colour. Now I’ve got some white paint somewhere ……..

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George

'Halford's' do a good spray and fill paint aswell. covers and fills any small imperfections at the same time. I have used it on model boat hulls before the final sanding.

wonwinglo

*** Great stuff George,it is called 'High Build' primer,the material flows into inperfections and sands easily,it is acrylic based as well.
Nice job Dave on the fuselage,I have been listening and watching with great interest how you have gone about this job.

__________________
'And there I was oil on my goggles from a broken pipe,then I looked at the altimeter,all I could see was the makers name !'
www.wonwinglo.scale-models.net/

Glider Guider

The fuselage is now sprayed up and although the repair is not undetectable it is pretty good and only someone who knew it was there would spot it.

I sprayed it with high build primer but there were some small but deep holes that needed a dab of filler, it was then sprayed using thinned Flair Spectrum that gives good results.

I was giving the fuselage its final coat when I thought that I’d need another tin to finish off the model – that’s when the penny dropped. Flair went bust a couple of weeks ago so when present stocks have gone that’s it, no more paint, so I got on to my local model shop and managed to get one of their last tins – phew!

I’m now fitting new servo boxes into the wing to suit the new mini servos I treated myself to and then I just have to spray the flying surfaces before taking it to the hill. The PIK has a total of 9 servos so a big battery will be called for.

I’ll post some photos of the completed model when it is finished.

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Glider Guider

The PIK 20 is complete and ready for the slopes.

Mark Townsend

Glider Guider

I’m pleased you found my ‘article’ interesting Mark especially if it helps motivate you into restoring your Vega.

If I was in your position I would carefully remove the veneer from the whole wing, however if some of the veneer is still so well bonded that it won’t come off easily leave it as you must not damage the surface of the foam core. Obechi veneer is not easy to find but I noticed some on Ebay yesterday, 10 off 36” x 6” packs plus instructions on its use for £12.50 inc P&P which seems a good price. I use Copydex used as a contact adhesive to stick down my veneer, this works well but is quite expensive.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...sPageName=WDVW

I would always cover the wing with glass on a high aspect ratio wing as it gives a lot of extra strength at the expense of a bit of weight gain. To bond the glass you can either use epoxy resin or one of the new water based adhesives.

There are two water based adhesives that I know of Poly C and Skincrylic (from Falcon Aviation http://www.falcon-aviation.com). Do a search for Poly C on this board as Greyhead started a tutorial thread a while back that is quite informative.

As to which to use on your Vega? If you can remove all of the old veneer and totally recover the wing with a good bond then I would go for one of the water based products as they are nicer to use, but if you can only partly re-veneer then I would use epoxy resin as my gut feeling is that it gives more strength to the wing plus there is no chance of the water base causing areas of veneer to lift where they are not fully bonded.

If using epoxy resin apply the resin with a roller not a brush and use many thin coats as thick coats can cause disappointing results, rollers and materials are available from Fibretech http://www.fibretechgb.co.uk.

I bought a ‘started’ Pat Teakle HP-18 recently, unfortunately some not so careful previous owner has rather butchered one wing so I will need to glass it and I will write it up for this forum but it won’t be for a while yet I’m afraid. I had a word with the Falcon Aviation rep at the Teeside MFC Show and he said to lay the glass over the wing and but a heavy(ish) strip of adhesive down the length of the wing then brush this out towards the leading and trailing edges. If either the leading or trailing edges are straight then you can use one piece of glass cloth, do one side leave it until it is almost dry then turn the wing over and quickly do the other side.

Hope this helps.