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09-09-2006
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#1 (permalink)
| | Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Hertfordshire Real Name: Richard My Models: Special Designs and Patches to match Visit rjwood_uk's Gallery
Posts: 2,231
| Concrete Slabs i made this by cutting a scrap of wood to size. for the slabs i got some cheap sheets of assorted sandpaper, looked through them and chose what corse to use. i settled with G2 but obviously this will change from scale and personal prefference.
I sprayed it white, waited for it to dry over night then sprayed over it with nutural grey. Again obviously this would depend on what you want the concrete to look like.
I then cut them down into 80x120mm sections (again obviously this would vary for different scales and personal prefference)
I have stuck them down with sticky back tape for now but they easily peal off with no damage. Dont use spray glue as it is not strong enough.
You will find the sand paper (being paper and all) may curl up after painting. Make sure you blue tack it down during the spraying stange. Then once all dry just stick it under a weighty book for a day or too to flatten it out!
let me know what you think. all comments, good or bad will be greatly appreciated! |
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09-09-2006
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#2 (permalink)
| | Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Halifax, Yorks: Nassau, Bahama's:Port Canaveral, USA: and all points in between. Real Name: Richard My Models: Robbe U-47, Deans Marine Cossack, Steam Coaster, Revell U-Boat, Motorcycles. Visit Bunkerbarge's Gallery
Posts: 3,581
| I think it looks pretty convincing Richard.
Just remember do not align the joints with the frame you put it in. Have it at an angle with one corner made of grass as the edge of the hard to give a far more interesting effect. |
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09-09-2006
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#3 (permalink)
| | Scale Model Member
Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Aberdeen Real Name: Jim My Models: Boats mainly working small ships and tugs Visit BigJBB's Gallery
Posts: 136
| Escellent finish there Richard! As hsa been said in a real diorama setting remember to stagger the joints and also a cracked corner would not go amiss.
cheers
Jim |
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09-09-2006
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#4 (permalink)
| | Scale Model Member
Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: gods country [scotland] Real Name: Marty.. My Models: serious injuries..childrens shoes.. Visit deakon's Gallery
Posts: 98
| the black coloured wet n dry paper makes excellent tarmac..as well!!!!! |
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09-09-2006
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#5 (permalink)
| | Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Halifax, Yorks: Nassau, Bahama's:Port Canaveral, USA: and all points in between. Real Name: Richard My Models: Robbe U-47, Deans Marine Cossack, Steam Coaster, Revell U-Boat, Motorcycles. Visit Bunkerbarge's Gallery
Posts: 3,581
| Quote: |
Originally Posted by deakon the black coloured wet n dry paper makes excellent tarmac..as well!!!!! | I have used that to put motorcycle models on to good effect. There are a couple in the gallery. |
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09-09-2006
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#6 (permalink)
| | Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Hertfordshire Real Name: Richard My Models: Special Designs and Patches to match Visit rjwood_uk's Gallery
Posts: 2,231
| yea i was going to use that then realised aircraft dont park on tarmack! |
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09-09-2006
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#7 (permalink)
| | R.I.P. Respected Member
Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Basildon Essex Real Name: Nigel My Models: All sorts Visit Nigel.D's Gallery
Posts: 788
| As another aide to this icelolly sticks make for great american carrier decks and if you want the cracks in your concrete to look real crease or crunole the paper to create them then fill in the creases with ink |
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09-09-2006
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#8 (permalink)
| | Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Halifax, Yorks: Nassau, Bahama's:Port Canaveral, USA: and all points in between. Real Name: Richard My Models: Robbe U-47, Deans Marine Cossack, Steam Coaster, Revell U-Boat, Motorcycles. Visit Bunkerbarge's Gallery
Posts: 3,581
| I actually have an article on this in an American mag in my cabin and the guy used mounting board from a picture framers.
He scored it with the back of a knife and then shaded the slabs with his airbrush dusted over a right angle peice of thin card, laid on the scored edges. Finall a bit of a wash in the creases, a bit of crack detail painted in and it looks amazing and very simple to do. |
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01-05-2007
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#9 (permalink)
| | Scale Model Member
Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Essex, UK Real Name: Alan My Models: Anything that isn't worth throwing out Visit alan2525's Gallery
Posts: 921
| Any more tips when it comes to creating a realistic looking concrete surface?
Really battered old concrete items you see at the coast and on old military fortifications have a real character of their own after the years of neglect have taken their hold and weathered the concrete.
When it comes to making military vehicles look battered, theres lots of tips ranging from using marmite as a masking fluid for chipped paint, graphite powder for burnished iron parts, drybrushing silver on worn edges and a whole host of washes for making it look greasy, oily, dirty, plus the weathering powders for, dirt, dust, mud, and more rust...
Any good products for making that old scratchbuilt military bunker model look like it's been there for the last 60 years or so?
There's the obvioud sand, to build up a corroded surface, washes, drybrushing etc...what else? What other household products can we scrub, flick, or splatter?
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02-05-2007
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#10 (permalink)
| | Scale Model Member | Hi rjwood_uk it looks a good and cheap way to go
sorry for hijacking the thread but can I ask alan2525 how?: Quote: |
using marmite as a masking fluid for chipped paint
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Last edited by tag; 02-05-2007 at 08:15.
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