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Old 03-09-2007   #471 (permalink)
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I’ve thought some more about the glow plug connector and decided that it will be best to mount it under the hinged flap and not the oil filler cover. Having made that decision means that it will have to be a working hinge and I have to consider how to keep the flap shut. To ensure that the hinge will take the “punishment” I’ll make it from tinplate so the obvious way to keep it shut is with a small magnet.

The flap and half the hinge are made from a single piece of tin plate



The hinge is bent around a 1mm drill and soldered then the slots cut out with the Dermal and cutting disc. The other half of the hinge is made in a similar fashion, I used a drill as opposed to piano wire to form the hinge around because solder won’t adhere to it.



To attach it to the fuselage I didn’t want to rely on the small amount of gluing area available so the pin is bent at 90º, this will go though a hole in the fuselage side and be securely epoxied inside.



The “catch” is a 14Ba washer soldered into a “cross” slot.
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Old 05-09-2007   #472 (permalink)
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A slight change of plan in so much as I’ve made the hinge pin in 2 halves so as to be able to have a 90º bend at both ends. The backing plate, which will fit inside the fuselage, is 1/8th lite ply, it will give a firm fixing for the ends of the hinge pins and also hold the small magnet.



The hinge pins have a small brass keeper soldered in place, I’ll reinforce it with a layer of epoxy later to prevent any vibration causing the holes to wear.



The flap in position and closed



With the flap open there is a nice sized hole for the remote glow plug connection.




The flap is held securely shut by the magnet working through the 1/32nd ply fuselage sides.
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Old 08-09-2007   #473 (permalink)
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Grahame

Your attention to detail and metal working skills are awesome. I can see that this project is going to take a while, and I will be watching your progress here on the Scale Models Forum. Thanks for taking the time to post all the pictures.

John
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Old 16-09-2007   #474 (permalink)
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The first thing people seem to look at on any scale model is the cockpit; therefore the padded edging needs careful attention. A good starting point is some split earth wire sleeving. Given a coat of brown paint it’d look just like “brown painted earth sleeving”, so it really does need covering with leather.



I searched high and low for some thin brown leather but couldn’t find any anywhere, then I remembered that I had an old “reversible” leather belt, black one side brown the other. Because it was made from 2 pieces sewn together the leather was not all that thick, but still too thick for what I needed! After separating the 2 halves, more in hope than expectation I fitted a rough sanding drum into the Dremmell, much to my surprise it worked and half an hour latter I had a strip of very thin leather; the down side was that I had produced what seemed to be an inordinately large amount of rather unpleasant smelling dust.

I used contact adhesive to glue the leather to the sleeving. I fitted the split sleeving to some paxolin sheet after first having covered the edge with paper, applied the glue then held the leather in place with clamps and a couple of steel rules.



The observant will have noticed that it isn’t earth sleeving in the photo; for the first attempt I used fuel tubing but the contact adhesive wouldn’t stick to it! I’ve used fuel tubing before with no trouble but this was a new “environmentally friendly” contact adhesive.

The finished padding was first stitched to the fuselage, which was then turned upside down and thin cyano “wicked” around the edge to finally hold everything securely in position.

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Old 16-09-2007   #475 (permalink)
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Another use for the thin leather is the headrest. This is simply a piece of soft 1/4 balsa covered in leather, which is then suitable “distressed”.



The rear section of padding has been added and although not that noticeable in the photo the cockpit edging has also been scuffed.

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Old 17-09-2007   #476 (permalink)
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Absolutely stunning attention to detail. Great work sir!
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Old 17-09-2007   #477 (permalink)
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As always Grahame it is the use wherever possible of the correct relevent materials in conjunction with an appreciation of the effects of scale on these materials that really sets your model apart.

Superb again.
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Old 26-09-2007   #478 (permalink)
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There’s not a lot going on with the SE5a at the moment as I’m waiting for the PC10 paint to arrive from America. Phil from Fighter Aces tells me it’s on the way so hopefully it won’t be too long as I’m starting to get modelling withdrawal symptoms and the better half is finding me other jobs to do!!

For the centre section tank overflows I’ve used copper wire from domestic house wiring cable; this is very useful stuff, it bends easily and comes in various sizes, this is the earth wire from 2.5mm2 with a 14BA nut and tinplate mounting brackets, which are simply cyanoed into small slots, soldered to it.



The top of the centre section now looks suitably “busy”.

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Old 28-09-2007   #479 (permalink)
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Hey Grahame, let me know if you are still at a loose end! I could think of some scale bits you could make for my SE5! Ho ho.
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Old 28-09-2007   #480 (permalink)
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Grahame,

If you are short of things to do on the SE5a - you could always post a few more pics of the aircraft in it's current state of completion to pass a few minutes!

I'm sure everyone here enjoys seeing your craftsmanship and miss the steady updates as you wait for the paint to be delivered!
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RE: SE5a 1/6 Scale Scratch Build Refback 17-05-2008 09:28
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