wonwinglo

Very strong and practical Grahame,you have crammed a lot of practicality into a small space.
Can I ask where you obtained your carbon fibre tow material plus the rods ?
Also where the rods enter the centre section do these go just into the timber or is this area sleeved as well ? so the grub screws just sit screwed into the hardwood block ready to wind down,very clever,have I got that right ?

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'And there I was oil on my goggles from a broken pipe,then I looked at the altimeter,all I could see was the makers name !'
www.wonwinglo.scale-models.net/

Greyhead

Well the break in the weather means the caravan is on hold for the time being.

Barry

I got the carbon tubes from www.carbonology.com and I must say they were very helpful; the tows are available from our local model shop. I haven’t sleeved the wood blocks because when the screws hold the wires there will be no movement hence no wear, I hope! You’ve got the idea correct, once the top sheeting is in place the only visible evidence of the grub screws will be four 1mm diameter holes and similarly for the bottom wing.

Grahame

Greyhead

The jig is mainly made from ¼ square balsa using plenty of braces to ensure stiffness; it’s got to hold the centre section rigidly in place whilst the cabane struts and bracing wires are fitted.



The jig in position on the fuselage. It will be held more securely for the final fitting.



The initial fitting of the cabane struts is the check that they will actually line up with the fixing points.

wonwinglo

***Details have been added to the Modellers Resource Directory under Carbon Rod & Tube supplies.

wonwinglo

I like the whole setup Grahame,just out of interest how much upper wing incidence will you add ? just at a guess I would say 3 degrees decalage.
This lost jig technique can be used on any biplane model and certainly takes all of the guesswork out of everything.

__________________
'And there I was oil on my goggles from a broken pipe,then I looked at the altimeter,all I could see was the makers name !'
www.wonwinglo.scale-models.net/

Bluewavestudios

Barry,

I added the details of Carbonology.com to the Resource thread a while back, it was them I got the Carbon Fibre from for the chassis for the last Car I built, and as Grahame says, they are extremely Helpful and their prices aren't too bad either.

Still I suppose a 2nd recommendation from us on here won't do them any harm !!

Grahame, that is excellent work....I am enjoying this thread immensely.

Regards...Mark.

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I'm Only Here Coz I'm Not All There !!!

Bunkerbarge

The more I see this build progress the more I realise that you are almost following the real construction techniques with so many aspects of the job.

Ths is one model where the thought and planning is as important, if not more so, than the building itself.

Superb.

Greyhead

Everything on the Se5a seems to be at 5º; dihedral, top and bottom wing incidence and even the tail plane incidence. The tail plane looks a bit odd set at 5º but on my previous Se5a I set it at 0º and ended up having to use a lot of down elevator for level flight. That’s one of the reasons I made the tail plane incidence adjustable on the Elf and this model will certainly have it adjustable, I’ll decide what angle to start with at a latter date!

I had an idea that I’d got the details for Carbonology from here but I wasn’t certain, I just copied the URL from my favorites (uck!! But it’s the way Microsoft spell it) in my above post.

Thanks to all who have posted positive feed back.

Grahame

wonwinglo

Same as the Stampe SV.4,effectively the flying angle coupled to the tailplane as governed by the wing incidence also takes care of the engine downthrust,it is a good system which works well on biplanes.
Adjustable tailplane is certainly a must,I always wanted to try in flight tailplane trim via a threaded rod screw jack,a real luxury.

__________________
'And there I was oil on my goggles from a broken pipe,then I looked at the altimeter,all I could see was the makers name !'
www.wonwinglo.scale-models.net/

Greyhead

Having confirmed that the lower fixing positions are correct the cabane struts are cut in half. It’s far easier to do the bending and drilling for each end of the struts separately then any discrepancies can be catered for when the two halves are joined, I don’t kid myself that they’ll be perfect first time!



The lower tube has a short length of smaller tube soldered into it to form a spigot for the top tube. The pin through the joint isn’t primarily to strengthen the joint but to stop the balsa cladding, which will be used to streamline the cabane tube, from twisting but it also makes sure that the inner tube will stay in place as the top tube is soldered to it.



A small screw holds the cabane strut to the centre section, those hard wood blocks are definitely multi propose.