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Old 15-04-2008   #621 (permalink)
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Because the basics were worked out well in advance the radio gear has all fitted in with no unexpected problems. The throttle servo, bomb release servo and onboard / remote glow driver are located in the engine compartment, their leads have to pass through the firewall so the resultant hole needs to be sealed to prevent the ingress of fuel / oil into the main fuselage.

A standard grommet won’t work very well because the leads have their plugs permanently fitted, so I made a 2 part seal from a rubber wine bottle “cork”; another of those useful Christmas necessities!



An appropriately sized hole is drilled through the firewall, one half of the seal fitted in place, the leads / plugs threaded through, then the second half fitted, the rubber compresses around the leads forming a good seal.



The onboard / remote glow is located in the engine compartment in order to keep the glow plug power leads as short as possible, the control unit and battery are wrapped in foam and held in place by a cable tie. I’ve complicated the wiring somewhat by including a stereo, switched socket, which enables me to use a remote connection for starting and also, using a different jack plug, to charge the battery.



Previously I've used a homemade onboard glow driver, which simply switched on the glow at a preset throttle setting. But this one is an “intelligent” glow driver; it continuously monitors the glow temperature (actually the resistance of the element) and connects the battery only when required, whatever the throttle setting happens to be. In theory it should be a lot better, but I’ll let you know how it actually works in practice at a later date!
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Old 19-04-2008   #622 (permalink)
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I ran the Laser up yesterday to test the plumbing and adjust the onboard glow. As I mentioned earlier I now have an “intelligent” glow driver, that is, it only switches on if the plug goes cold and needs energising not at a set throttle opening. The driver has an LED, which shows when current is being supplied to the glow plug; this is very useful as you can see exactly what is happening.

Having adjusted the driver following the instructions, one thing became quite obvious; with a Laser you really don’t need an onboard glow driver. I’ll still use it if only as extra security just in case a plug goes faulty when I’m sure it would help.
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Old 20-04-2008   #623 (permalink)
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I’ve altered the exhaust slightly by incorporating a 10mm copper 90º bend, I found that as the silicone pipe heated up with the engine running, it tended to collapse slightly at the apex of the bend so restricting the gas flow. I have to admit that I didn’t notice any change in the engines performance but decided that it’s better to be safe than sorry.

Connecting the remote glow lead to the plug can be a problem with Lasers, along with most other four strokes, because the plug is recessed quite a way into the head; there are many methods used to make this connection, this time I’ve used the threaded section from a 3mm “quick link”. A very short bolt holds the solder tag and the rest of the 3mm tapped section pushes tightly over the plug post, being made of “springy” metal the threaded section can be adjusted slightly if necessary to ensure a tight fit by squeezing with a pair of pliers.



The power lead is sheathed in silicone fuel tubing for heat proofing.
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Old 27-04-2008   #624 (permalink)
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I was chatting in the model shop recently and as is often the case when I’m involved the subject turned to biplanes. The consensus was that they’re more trouble than they’re worth, just too fiddly to set up and awkward to takeoff and land in anything but ideal conditions. I pointed out that my Elf, with its folding wings, is easier to rig than most sports models; but I had to admit that it is the exception rather than the rule! I also had to admit that the flying characteristics of biplanes can be “challenging” but in my opinion the inconvenience of rigging is far outweighed by the appearance of the assembled model and that it doesn’t have to be all that time consuming with a bit of forethought.

My decision to use the scale closed loop control system for the ailerons on the SE5a has made the assembly somewhat more difficult and as I explained the procedure it did sound horrendous, which in reality it isn’t. It’s one of those things that sound complicated in words but when you see what is involved it isn’t, so I’ll take some photos as I assemble the model, which won’t be today as my workroom is too small and it’s raining quite heavily; don’t want to get all those rigging wires rusty!

I’ll start with a photo of the “tools” that I’ve made to make the rigging easier and a brief explanation; it will be much clearer what they do when I post the assembly photos.



From left to right:

One of a set of 4, which keep the cables tight during storage and whilst connecting the first quicklink.

The third version of a tool to hold the quicklinks open

A spring-loaded quicklink

Tensioning tool for the rear flying wires.

I'll assemble the model and take photos ASAP, but just checked our 5 day forecast and it's not looking promising for next week!

Last edited by Greyhead; 27-04-2008 at 12:42.
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Old 27-04-2008   #625 (permalink)
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OK. Now you've got our curiosity up and tell us we have to wait for it to stop raining in the springtime? ARRRRRRG!!
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Old 27-04-2008   #626 (permalink)
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This is England we're talking about! No such thing as predicable seasons.
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Old 28-04-2008   #627 (permalink)
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Seasons??? Do we still have them?
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Old 28-04-2008   #628 (permalink)
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nice and sunny at the moment.....get those photos!!! lol

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Old 28-04-2008   #629 (permalink)
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You don't live in the North East!!!!!

20 minutes later and the sun’s out!!

But we’re still surrounded by ominous black clouds; I don’t think I’ll risk it

Last edited by Greyhead; 28-04-2008 at 03:16.
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Old 28-04-2008   #630 (permalink)
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North Scotland, seasons are defined by the warmth of the rain!!
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