SE5a CONSTRUCTION BEGINNING TO . . . - Page 8

Greyhead · 19-08-2006

The top panel has 3 distinctive parts; there’s a bulge over the fuel cap, the fuel cap itself and something that looks like a submarine conning tower.

Where the plates will overlap the edge of the under plate needs feathering in, even the thickness of the Litho plate would leave a noticeable step. For filling very thin depths such as this I think the best material is cellulose stopper as sold by automotive paint suppliers.

The bulge is first modelled in balsa and glued to the ply decking and given a coat of silver Solalac for both appearance and fuel proofing.

It is quite difficult to work Litho plate from a male mould so I cut an appropriate sized square from an off cut of 1/8th balsa and started to form the bulge from the inside working it into the cut out, when it was approximately the correct depth I transferred it to the actual model to finish it off.

A small ring of Litho plate and some rivets completes the top plate itself.

Greyhead · 19-08-2006

It is impractical to make this part from metal so I’ve used spruce and painted it with silver Solalac, when weathered it’ll look OK. When making small parts such as this it’s useful to keep them attached to the wood until they are as near to finished as possible. Sorry for the blurred photo!

The fuel cap is made from brass soldered together.

The result when the parts are assembled

Greyhead · 19-08-2006

The gun trough was no problem; so that’s the tank cover finished and I must say it’s been an enjoyable few days.

With the way the weather’s been recently it’s a good job I like building as much as flying, it must be a frustrating hobby for the ARTF brigade!

Phoenix · 19-08-2006

looks good

would it not be easier to syringe the rivits on with a paste like glue after the plate had been stuck down ?

**wonwinglo** · 19-08-2006

Coming on leaps and bounds now Grahame,it really looks realistic and your detail is outstanding.
The adhesive by the way is made by De Luxe materials,and called 'RC Modellers Craft glue' it is ideal for things like sticking canopies as it will bead easily and above all dry clear around the edges,as you have found out it has very tacky qualities,and is quite versatile.

**Bunkerbarge** · 20-08-2006

I have to say Grahame I completely agree with your thinking as regards the plate surface. Not only would a perfect finish be difficult to acheive but it would also look considerably less realistic.

I still find it strange that so many people insist on spreaying a large scale model of an old boat hull. They simply didn't have spray gear in those days so the finish was far from perfect as it was applied by vast numbers of shipyard workers with large brushes. When I painted my coaster hull I deliberatley used a small flat brush and painted in all directions. This will be given more coats of slightly varying surface textures in differrent areas to bring the surface to life.

I think your plate work looks superb and a boat hull made with riveted litho like yours would look stunning!!

Greyhead · 20-08-2006

Iain

I’ve only tried the “drops of glue” method for simulating rivets once and I found it extremely tedious. On the other hand the results are fine and there are some occasions when it is the only viable method.

The way I use on Litho plate is very simple, fast and produces perfectly spaced rivets; I use a dressmaker’s copy tool and a straight edge or curved template.

This one has had every other “tooth” removed to widen the spacing.

Mark the position for the rivets on the reverse side of the panel, hold the straight edge or template in place and carefully run along the edge with the tool; a couple of seconds to make a row of perfectly spaced rivets; what could be easier?

Richard

I agree; a hull finished in Litho plate really would look the part. Before I “discovered “ canopy glue, which is water based so not suitable for a boat, I used 5 min. epoxy made runny with cellulose thinners, this works fine you just have to make sure that the inevitable sticky fingerprints are removed before the glue sets!

**Bluewavestudios** · 22-08-2006

Grahame,

This one is getting better looking as each post progresses, a real work of art and a real pleasure to watch your skills. Yes I do have a dressmakers copy wheel in my toolbox too for the very same reason you have used it. I like the way you have modified yours for correct spacing too.

I Trust we can see this model at a Future World Champs meet..?? The way she is building up now she will surely be a Winner when she is completed, the attention to detail is awesome and worthy of recognition.

I hope the Scale Model Mags have picked up on this one !!!!

Regards......Mark.

Greyhead · 23-08-2006

The fuselage front section is now as complete as I want it; in a perfect world I would be able to work on the cowl and dummy engine, but before I do I want to fit the engine to ensure I don’t make things unnecessarily awkward for myself later, and in this non-perfect world I don’t have a spare Laser 70! The spars and leading edge for the bottom wing stubs aren’t permanent as yet; these will be built after the fuselage rear framework is attached.

With the cabane struts and all the bracing wires soldered in place I think it’s obvious why I decided to complete the tank cover first.

**wonwinglo** · 23-08-2006

Grahame the S.E.5A's distinct shape is appearing,this idea of a front fuselage module is a good one,what you need is a slave scrap Laser 70,this one is going to be a floater with that undercambered wing section,and wing area.