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Originally Posted by ajg141 Very, very neat work Ramesh. I can see you've done this before! It's going to take an age to evenly tighten down all those nuts poolside though! And I thought mine was bad - I've used wingnuts to make it easier for my less than dextrous fingers. What are all the extra holes intended for though?
Andrew |
Hi Andrew, thanks, yes on my first Typhoon I fitted a clear lid but kept the opening stock size and used a slicone gasket type seal. This time I will be using an oring cord seal. The white bit below the lid is a 3mm thick plasticard plate that will form a channel to hold the oring and limit overtightening of the lid and overcompression of the oring. This way I just tighten the nuts as far as they will go and I have an even seal, also I will be able to see the oring compressing and the seal forming evenly. Engel has 9cm between their screws, but I played it safe and went for 5cm. I hope that the boat will be reliable enough that I only need to remove the lid to charge the battery. The advantage of a clear lid is that you can satisfy yourself that all is well, without removing the lid. I will have an onboard digital voltmeter/ammeter as well. The inspection hatch at the front will house the on-off switches and charging leads and will also serve to ventilate the WTC when out of the water to prevent condensation. Using an electric screwdriver I can do them all in about 2min, not too much of chore, considering the size and weight I have to haul to pond side! The extra holes are for electrical connections (external servos, lights, sound, thrusters etc...) and an extra servo pushrod seal (at some point I hope to a working missile). The connetions are water/pressure proof through bulkhead type.
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