1:100 'Typhoon' Submarine Building Thread - Page 8

Mankster · 10-01-2007

Finally getting to more interesting parts of the build. I deviated from the kit instruction and components when it came to fitting out the stern gear and linkages. Here are a couple of pics from the supplied plans. The Engel method probably works well enough but I wanted to fine tune it a bit.

These are the bits I discarded, 2 brass prop shafts, the two stern bushing that hold the shafts and the kit supplies 6 blade props (the original had 7 blades so I bought a new set).I fitted a traditional prop tube with end bushings and a stainless steel shafts. This will allow me to fit internal thrust collars on the shafts to help protect the motors and gearbox.

The push rods to the rudder and more importantly the dive planes are rather long and prone to flex. The Typhoon in long and heavy sub and the moment forces on the rear planes are large. An automatic pitch controller will be making small adjustment to rear planes when the sub is operational to keep it running level so I want to take as much slack out the of the system as possible. Also for ease of fitting and adjustment instead of having a very long pushrod I spilt it and joined it with a straight brass coupling. The white plastic sleeves on the pushrods will eventually be fixed to a cross brace, and will prevent and lateral flexing of the push rod. An alternative would be to double up on the thickness of the pushrod to reduce flex

The prop tubes are bonded to the hull at the stern and supported at the front with braces. I intend to replace the straignht prop shaft coupling with a double universal joints. Overkill ???.... probably

Still a bit to do at the back, but here what it looks like from the back...

Those holes at the bottom to adjust the pushrod connections will be covered up.

I extended the stern end taper by about a couple of inches to be almost flush with the end of the rear dive planes as per the original.

Mankster · 31-01-2007

I've dry fitted the dive plane retract mecanism and it seems to work fine despite me messing up with one measurement. I'll post some photos of this when I finalise the installation. Here are some progress pics. Next step is the working periscope mechanism.

ajg141 · 31-01-2007

Great work Ramesh - I particularly like all those grilles. The strengthening to the rear push rods is something I'll be doing to mine as well - as you say the originals are a bit floppy. Interesting to read that you made a wee error with a measurement on the front retracts - join the clan! I'm afraid mine is currently sitting forlorn under a cover whilst other projects are finished off - but at least it's getting back towards the front of the queue and my determination to get it finished is beginning to grow again! And then I'll need to start thinking about that 'Resolution'!

Andrew

Mankster · 03-02-2007

Thanks Andrew, as you see in the first pic, the vertical support for the front dive plane is closer to the hull in portside than the starboard. Not much, the angle of the phoyo make it look worse than it is. When shaping the supports to fit the hull, I must have sanded one more than the other. Now I have to adjust it so oneside gets more throw and make adjustments so that the diveplanes project equally out of the hull on eachside. I had to experiment with 6 different hole positions on the tiller arms till I found a combination that worked. Here a video http://s136.photobucket.com/albums/q...t=MVI_2974.flv

Since I took that one, I have got closer to 90 degrees of throw.

periscope · 04-02-2007

Look forward to following your progress - very interesting stuff.

Ian

Mankster · 13-02-2007

I've finshed the peiscope mechanism with some modifications.

Heres a video of it in action http://s136.photobucket.com/albums/q...t=MVI_3016.flv

Mankster · 08-04-2007

Sorry, haven't updated this thread for a while. Not much done in the last couplr of months, but things are starting to pick up now.
I have cut out the tower and bonded it to the main hull, which is now complete. I didn't sand down the final layer of primer and sprayed the balck down in short dusting type bursts out of a spray can. I'm pretty happy with the result which is a textured almost speckelled' finish, which I think is more indicative of the real ones after a couple of patrols under the ice caps. Next up is to fit out the windows and lighting. For this one I am going with filament bulbs rather than LED's (colour is less intense and looks a little more authentic) and then laying down the water line and other makings; and finally some weathering incuding rusting all those limber grates.

subzero · 11-04-2007

What a fantastic model a real credit to you for your patience and skill..some people say subs are boring and there is no detail...especially on a modern Nuke...Well folks..all I have to say to them is " Open your eyes and look at this "..more detail than " most targets " errr sorry surface boats.
I have a particular interest in the Typhoon and have been looking at some plans I have and also the drawing you posted on the 20/12, the hull appears to have bilge keels on the drawings I have and the one you posted...just before the inlets for I believe the reactor ?. Have you any knowledge of these please and are the drawings incorrect as don't want to bother with them if the info I have is wrong...I cannot tell if you put them on your superb model from the pics posted, if indeed they are reqd.

Any advice you can give would be greatly appreciated, you have obviously researched your build very thoroughly, You have some pics I have never seen. I would even say that your boat is the best model sub I have ever had the privelige of seeing..( I have seen quite a few ).And don't let any one else tell you different ! Well done.

Mankster · 07-05-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by subzero

What a fantastic model a real credit to you for your patience and skill..some people say subs are boring and there is no detail...especially on a modern Nuke...Well folks..all I have to say to them is " Open your eyes and look at this "..more detail than " most targets " errr sorry surface boats.
I have a particular interest in the Typhoon and have been looking at some plans I have and also the drawing you posted on the 20/12, the hull appears to have bilge keels on the drawings I have and the one you posted...just before the inlets for I believe the reactor ?. Have you any knowledge of these please and are the drawings incorrect as don't want to bother with them if the info I have is wrong...I cannot tell if you put them on your superb model from the pics posted, if indeed they are reqd.

Any advice you can give would be greatly appreciated, you have obviously researched your build very thoroughly, You have some pics I have never seen. I would even say that your boat is the best model sub I have ever had the privelige of seeing..( I have seen quite a few ).And don't let any one else tell you different ! Well done.

Thanks, sorry for not replying earlier. If you mean those long stablisers that run down the hull, than yes, the Typhoons have them

I have chosen not to have then on mine for handeling reasons. The finished model is going to weigh 50lb or so and will need lifting straps to haul it out of the water and those will be the first things to break off

.

If you need any info for your build just ask!

Mankster · 07-05-2007

Well my Typhoon has finally got a personality. I have chosen to model her as TK-20 Severstal (the last Typhoon to be commissioned and one of the 3 sea going ones left) as seen in 2001. Here she is sporting the emblem of her sponser the Severstal Steel company.

I need to rust up the limber hole grills a bit more and stick the Russian naval ensign on the tower and the cosmetics will be finished. I still have to install the electronics and pistons tanks. I have everything laid out on the table and working, just need to figure out how to tidy and route the wiring.