subzero

Paul
Glad to see you havn't lost heart, its looking good again, only a minor hicup, besides what would you have done with your time if it had been finished first time ????

regards sub.

Mankster

Looking good with all the scribed detail standing out like it should.

Screw Loose

Thats true

Must admit last Sunday I was Pd off with it, thats why I left it a couple of days. Really happy the way its come out luckily. Just as well Mankster told me about that stripper. I wasnt really sure how to remove it.

Paul

subzero

Yep ....
I think we have ALL learnt something by your experience here ....thats why good forums such as this one can and are invaluable.

Screw Loose

The black paint has stayed on overnight. Noting has fell off! (yet) It hasnt blistered and it hasnt got Fisheyes So far so good, kind of waiting for it though

So I diecided to get some extra paint, the same stuff as the black, and put the extra markings on it. I made sure the room was at "room temperature", the surface was abraded to give it a key. And cleaned with spirit wipe. So far so good masked off the sections and sprayed the chin and other bits. Fifteen minutes between coats (as per instructions) and hey presto it hasnt dropped off or run (Yet!)

I left it a few hours and it has taken this time. There is not many blemishes on the surface, a few minor bits that need touched up, but nothing major.



Since I am happy with the paint, (got to call it a day sometime) I got the trimline out. 2 Runs of it round the hull, and a section on the stern. It was then I realised that the lower trimline is a bit lower than it should be. But at the juction its staying there. If anyone at the lake decides to get the ruler out hes getting poked in the eye with the transmitter aeiral I need to remove bits of the trimline that are round the chin etc, but decided to put it on in one section to keep it straight.

I put the depth markings on, and started the detailing round the conning tower and hatches on the outer casing. But I have ran out of paint, so more pots of it tommorrow.

Have to keep it off the bank statement, think shes starting to notice all these £20 and £50 here and there
Got some mesh coming this week from "The model dockyard" in Cornwall, so that will need to be put on. Then When all the detailing is done, a matt laquer or something over the decals, and other bits that are shiny may be called for.

When all that is over with I am going to weather it. I dont think that even when Russian boats are new they ever look "New"!

Paul

subzero

Nicely done Paul,

Where did you obtain the depth marking from ....//or are they supplied in the kit ?

Regards sub.

Mankster

There not part of the kit, but I have just been on the Engel site to pick up some bits and noticed that they are selling markings for a range of their subs separately.

Screw Loose

I got mine from a place called "The model dockyard". Been getting a few bits from them recently. One of the only model shops I can find that have a great selection these days.

Welcome to the Model Dockyard

Think the depth markins come in different sclaes. I had to get 1/100th scale, it was the closest one to my boat.

Paul

Screw Loose

The word sieve seems appropriatee at present. As in "leaks like a"!

I have pretty much completed the painting. Apart from the some of the weathering and bits and bobs its sorted.

So for a change of scenary I decided to pressure test the whole thing. I have put a Schraeder valve in the W.T.C, because I like to have a very slight positive pressure on my subs, just to give it a slight second chance in case of any water ingress or missed leak. But to cut it short the air was coming out faster than i could find the leaks

I am using a small air compressor to provide a constant supply of air, albeit a slow flow, along with a gauge to measure the internal pressure. Basically fire it up and get the leak solution, and a paint brush and go bubble chasing!

I found that the brass bolts that keep the motors in, had a very small weap coming from around the fixing rod that are glued into the hull. Now its all firmly fixed in place, and I am not going to dismantle the whole thing for that, so I have put a VERY small amount of sealer around the nut heads. I could remove the nuts etc, and glue the mounts in again, but I am a little concerned that once i remove one thing, I will probably have bother with something else down the line. And for the sake of a bead of sealer, I think its worth it. And it comes out easily enough.

So the W.T.C is fitted in correctly, and no leaks around that, so I checked the seal around the lid. Absolutley awfull!

The one that came with the kit got slightly damaged during the build. So I have had to replace it. I have used a rubber sheet, cut in one section. But it seems its to stiff, to mould to the lid when fixed on.

Now I know I can use window glazing trim, and have had good results with that in the past, but I was talking to a guy a while ago from the club, and he used silicone sealant. I have tried this in the past and to be honest I havnt had a great deal of luck with it, but I have tried again. And hopefully it will be more successful this time.

All I have done is put a fair bit of silicone on the top of the W.T.C, and coated the metal lid with the periscope mechanism on with lots of Vaseline. As I said I have tried this before, so I know it wont stick together, but whether it will make a good seal only time will tell.

But lets put it this way, it aint going anywhere near the water without it holding an internal presure for a few hours on the bench! Never mind when it heats up and the air expands! The last thing I need is to be dipping into the lake at Tynemouth in the middle of winter ! Sure the other boat drivers wouldnt laugh much ! Can hear them now, "Oh you should of bought a lifeboat or a trawler !" Aye aye

So fingers crossed!

Paul

subzero

PAUL.....

..................CAUTION......................... .......

sealed my 3 lids on my scratch type 9 when i built it 10 yrs ago .....its still water tight.

AS LONG AS THERE IS PLENTY OF GREASE ON THE LID YOU SHOULD BE OK.

The silicone needs about a week to harden off , a word of CAUTION the silicone WILL give off ACETIC ACID FUMES when curing, ( smells like vinegar ) you would be well advised to REMOVE ALL ELECTRONICS BEFORE using the silicone it WILL eat them and turn brass GREEN.

Hope I am not too late with this advice... Sub.