Screw Loose

I think your right, coming round to the same conclusion myself. Seems they try to overengineer quite a bit on the boat. They are now removed and pinned with epoxy. Much better finish, thanks

Paul

Screw Loose

I have had to use a fair amount of silicone grease to lubricate the bearings and such. Seems smother now but still not as smooth as I would like. Same as yours, in the proccess of modifying it.

Paul

subzero

Hi guys this is how I did my rear hydroplanes if it of any use :
I mounted the planes on the shaft and secured them in the correct place and in line, then drilled through the hydroplane body into the brass shaft, then removed the planes and tapped the holes in the brass shaft 2 mm. Then got hold of some small 2mm countersunk machine screws and then countersunk the holes on the hydroplane body to match the screws, then fitted everthing together and put the screws in and tightened them up and hey presto solid on the shaft but easily removeable for maintenance etc.

Screw Loose

Thanks Subzero, think I might just use a similar idea on mine. Might make getting the planes out a little easyer than using drops of CA glue like they recomend!

I have fitted the planes and rudders on mine just a moment ago. As others have said I have used a mix of my own ideas, and advised methods from here.

I pinned and glued all the rudder fins, and prop cowls and end flaps etc and used epoxy to cement them in place.



Just 2 pins and Epoxy to fix.

While on the Hydroplanes as I said previous I used a solid brass rod as the pivot arm, and a brass tube as the bearing for it, which is epoxyed into the hull. Greased and free enough to slide out for maintanence if absolutley neccessary.



The brass rod bearing protrudes slightly out of the hull and goes into the plane ( about 4mm ) just to add a bit of extra strength to the structure. Works ok as long as you drill a slightly larger hole for the tube to sit in the plane.

Now waiting on glue to harden properley, and off to keep her happy and get some decorating done

Paul

Screw Loose

Roughly finished.


With an added Rabosh control arm tommorrow. The Engel solution to the problem of a control horn/arm is complicated to say the least! n



Thanks for the idea of the screw to fix the axle in. Works well !

Screw Loose

Well after a week off I thought I better pull my finger out and get those dreaded planes built for the Typhoon. Must admit I wasnt looking forward to them.

I read through the instructions, made sure all the parts were present and correct, and got started. The first thing is the instructions are as clear as mud ! With all due respect to the manufacturers you can tell that they have been written by someone whos first language isnt English. Its not all clear, but Engel arent the only ones, I have found Robbe to be the same.

But they supply EXCELLENT building plans and detailed diagrams. So I used the building and parts diagram in the back of the manual. Its a lot easyer following the picture and the measurements than reading through the written instructions.

Its a pretty good piece of engineering, but a little tricky to assemble, as others have said on here. And if you dont have a GOOD soldering iron, bench vice, good files and a pedestal drill I would not even consider building this model. I have found that you need a fair bit of experience and tools to make the job a lot simpler. Not to say you cant without, just will be a pain in the bum !

The plastic formers are all pre-drilled, and holes all line up well, and its just a matter of inserting brass rods, screws, couplers, grub screws and the usual gear.

Bending the brass connecting rods has to be exact, or I can imagine it will not operate smoothley or accuratley when complete. I have also added waterproof silicone grease to all touching surfaces, such as bearings, conecting rods and couplers to make it smoother.

But basically this is all I have managed to get done today,


As you can see I have not removed excess solder or rough edges, but its basiacally complete I think

Hydroplane control arm;


So now just to glue the plates into the hull and mount it correctly. Bound to be a pain knowning my luck. Anyways enough for the moment, her indoors is forgetting what I look like apparently

Screw Loose

Just been loose fitting the retract mechanism into the hull just to see how its going to fit. Needs a bit of the supporting plastic frame removed but it fits pretty well.

But on thing I cant understand with the instructions, is the nut that runs on the threaded rod assembly for retracting the planes, has no locking nut or spring washer on it. Just a 20mm flat head screw. I have just jury rigged a motor up to it just to make sure it works ok, and the screw that keeps the 2 swing arms on just falls out. So I think the way forward is to fit all the screws into the mechanism, amke sure there all tight or as tight as they need to be and use some LOCTIGHT thread glue. making sure they all work first

I dont know about any other lads on here, but I have measured all distances and degrees of swing etc, but its going to be a case of trial by error I think. Just as Mankster said, its tricky to get them to run smoothly. Grease helps, measuring equal distances for all the connecting rods is essential on mine. But still needs some playing with.

Why on earth they dont recomend lubricating mechanical moving parts with some form of grease I have no idea

And oh S**T I forgot I have not got a spare servo, talk about bad planning, back to Pandan models again me thinks !

Mankster

You do realise you have the shafts for the planes the wrong way around dont you

Looking good so far, measuring didn't work at all for me, just make small adjustments and see what happens.

Screw Loose

I realised just by accident to be honest. I was literally about to mix the resin to fix them into the lower hull and for some reason I looked up at the plan on the wall and realised just in time. But that was more luck than good judgment !

I have fixed them in today, and apart from having problems with the resin not going off due to low temperature, they seemed to go in ok.

What was a pain was measuring and re measuring to make sure I had them in the correct place. I had to make an articulation frame out of wood to keep it in place long enough for the resin to go off.



I have superemposed the brasswork in the picture to make the wokings a little clearer. The origional picture was hard to make out. Basically there just flung together so I could get the brackets glued in. They WONT work in this configuration, but as I said its just to get the pieces glued in.Now dismantling all the brasswear.

The stop for the shaft was awkward to glue in. I couldnt find reference to it in the instructions, so I just chamfoured the bottom edge and used resin to stick it in. Same with the control unit for the planes.

I think all the time I spent measuring all the dimentions was critical, as others have said on here they are awkward to get running correctly, and any error in measuring exagerates the fault with the planes.

Now just to clean up all the mess I made with the resin, damned stuff gets everywhere when it wont go off.

Screw Loose

Well been introducing myself to the electronics of the Typhoon for the first time today. You get a comprehensive wireing diagram which is pretty good, easy to follow, but I still feel the instructions could have a little more detail in them. Just for daft things like, a microswitch which works in conjunction with the servo to move the front planes. But a diagram to where it goes would be helpfull . Just as well theres people to ask on here ! (thanks lads !)

Rigged up the brass work today, and it works pretty well, but still not happy about the smoothness of the planes coming in or out. But I think its going to be small adjustments all the way to get it right. Just as Ramesh and Andrew have said about theres.

But the motor and circuit board that comes is first class. Its good quality and it has been made well. And wireing it up is pretty straight forward, as long as you read the diagram carefully. But I am working carefully, and might put an inline fuse on the positive feed from the battery. Cant harm, and have burnt out a few boards before, and they get pricey. An inline fuse and holder from RS, £3.56, replacement circuits ?!?!?!?!



As you can see not a lot done, but I will be changing those crimp spade connectors for soldered ones. I hate crimps, have had lots come loose in the past. I know a lot of people use them, I just dont trust them. The last thing I need is a trip in cold water in Tynemouth lake to get the bloody thing back !