Screw Loose

Well thats the mechanism wired up. Its pretty straightforward, as long as you read the wiring diagram. Basically theres only 6 points where you put the wires in, a + and - from the battery, 2 points where you put the red power lead from the front plane servo, and 2 leads going to the microswitch for the front servo, via a 2 channel switch.

For the 2 channel switch I used a Subtec SES-3 unit. I have used lots of these in the past and have found them to be very reliable and easy to operate. As long as the electronic switch has a neutral point on the handset you are ok.

II just used the bench to test it as its obviously easyer to see whats going on before you install all the motors and wires correctly.



I cant complain it worked pretty much first time, but I did read the diagram about 4 times, just hate that smouldering PCP smell that you get, and the oh S**T when you realise another is needed.

The only thing I will add is an inline fuse, just for safety and my own piece of mind. It cant harm.

Mankster

Careful with the fuse value you chose, its no fun trying to remove the top hull with the planes stuck extended with a blown fuse.Rather it ran a bit hot.

Screw Loose

Yea thats true! I can imagine its a pain even for whatever reason they get stuck while extended.
I had better make sure that the mechanism is working freely before I put the lid on, thanks for the warning.


I will put a meter across the positive terminal and see how much current its drawing. And put in a bigger fuse to account for water flow or exterior conditions. Basically just concerned about a total lock up of the mechanism. But can definately see your point about trapping the lid on with planes out, what a nightmare !

Screw Loose

Well I have managed to get the motor working for the retract mechanism, apart from the servo which is wired through the retract circuit !

For some reason the mechanism retracts, and extendes and stops when its supposed to but the bloody servo will not operate. All the obvious things I have checked, batterys, terminations, transmitter, reciever but still nothing.

You have to break the positive leg of the feed for the servo, and in series wire it through the retract circuitry. The servo works well enough on its own, but as soon as its wired up, nothing.!

Back to the drawing board!

Screw Loose

Well after much tears and heartache I have got those planes working at last. I have not had much time to devote to it I must admit, but got them working yesterday.

I tried the mechanism last week but found that the worm gear which is attatched to the motor, wasnt perfectly straight. so when the motor activated the rod moved eccentrically. And ripped off the plastic bearing/plate on the inner hull.

So some more thought and stronger resin, and it works.

The electrics were giving me problems initially, but found out that my reciever battery wasnt holding its charge properley, and therefore wasnt activating the switch or servo properly.

Basically in a manner of most blokes I wasnt reading the wireing diagram properley, and had the wire to the electronic switch round the other way. Easily sorted when I read the diagram properly.

Here is a small video I took using t he mobile, not good quality but good to go on with!


The planes are moving as supposed to, but still nead a fair bit of adjustment, as they arent moving together and deploying at the right speed or time. But thats a job for another day.

Screw Loose

I carefully removed the retract mechanism tonight, and with all the wires still in place disconnected it, and put it back in the box. Dont want to lose the wireing just yet

The next thing is to put in the 6mm plastic plates for all the electronics to sit on in the water proof compartment. Its all precut to the correct lengths, and just needs 3 moutning plates to go port to starboard. Its held in with 2-2.2mm self tappers. Pilot holes in both plates and bobs your uncle etc. Pretty much straight forward, but it has to be exactly measured because if its to high the piston tanks wont fit under the pressure compartment lid.

And even if its measured correctly its till a tight fit!

Not the most interesting of jobs, therefore no picture, but has to be done

Screw Loose

I have just finished putting in the 2 piston tanks intothe pressure hull. There are 2 brackets per tank, which are basically just L joints, with a screw into the tank and into the inner deck. Nothing exciting.

But as others have mentioned on here, the gap in the upper lid of the pressure compartment is snug to say the least. The tanks slide in fine, but attatching the screws while there in is a total nightmare
I did consider making the opening bigger, like others have done on here, but I didnt want to have the hassle of making another seal for the lid. In hindsight it would have madelife a lot easyer!

Its like a bloody Chinese puzzle, so much space, so size tanks and no room for maneuver! But I got them in eventualy, really looking forward to removing them for the wiring and silicone tubing to fit on! But they fit anyways !




Now there in the next item is the pressure switch. Just one fixing bracket and it goes next to the forward pressure tank. Seems straightforward enough, but I am sure there is a gremlin hiding around the corner to cock something up.

I was just browsing throught the wiring diagram for the TAE system. Its very good, and all the diagram is clear and precise. But one probem I have found is some of the vital wording, is only in German. I dont know if its just mine, but think I might have to dig out the German-English dictionary on here !

And just found out totally by accident my better half has bought me the power operated conning tower mechanism for Christmas, MUCH better than socks !

Mankster

Looking good! Not too late to make the opening bigger either if you find the wiring a problem. I have a spare cut out but not drilled, polycarbonate lid somewhere if its of any use.

Screw Loose

Thanks mankster ! Definately worth thinking about. Had a spot of bother removing the piston tanks last night! Due to the small opening ! Will have a close look at mine tommorrow !

Screw Loose

Well I have wired up the piston tanks today, which was fun to be honest! Odd I know

The wiring diagram is pretty good, and as long as you follow it EXACTLY you shouldnt have any bother. I must admit I roped my Dad into help, my thinking was 2 sets of eyes cant be a bad thing ! And someone else to blame if it goes bang!

I highlighted the circuits on the diagram, and just followed it step by step. One wire at a time. And put a bit of white tape on the terminations on the board, just to help myself. Marked 1-5 etc.

I have used crimps to terminate onto the male connections, just spade connectors. But I might remove them prior to the final instalation, I dont like crimps, they have a nasty habit of coming off at the worst possible time!

Its all went relativley well. I connected the power leads up, reciever, battery, and got the transmitter adjusted. And with crossed fingers I powered it up. Microswitches flicking, and nothing smelt of burning, a good sign!

Moved the stick and one of the tanks fired up right away, the threaded rod went along, stoped, and on comand came back in. Perfect! the other didnt budge!

After an hour of checking the wires, and dismantling the tank, I noticed that the metal bracket supporting the microswitches was bent! So off it came and a pair of pliers later its straight ! Fired it up with the stick again, and it worked a treat ! That was until the threaded rod came all the way out and snapped the plunger off one of the three microswitches !




But it all works and has came out ok, and theres another microswitch winging its way to sunny Northumberland as I type !

Now to get it all back in that small bloody opening !

Paul