Screw Loose

Hmm the rudders that inefective huh? Might have to look for a new speed controller then me thinks !

subzero

I am in the process of wiring up a dive module with two screws. I have gone for twin Mtroniks 10amp marine controllers with a Mtroniks "W" tail mixer for that very reason.
A very clever device full forward / reverse from 1 channel and both motors full forward and reverse BUT move the rudder and when stationary the inner turn motor goes backwards and the outer motor speeds up according to rudder throw. When full or reverse is on the go again the inner motor slows etc very,very clever, all for under £60.00 and all the units are tiny and waterproof compared to many other speedos.

Screw Loose

Thanks Sub thats a good idea!

I wouldnt care I have just bought 2 Mtoniks speed controllers (the waterproof ones, just in case) on Friday. Shame I didnt get one like yours, typical.

But you have give me a good idea, I might try to mix the motors with the rudders like you suggest, using the handset mixer. I am not sure how or if it will work, but I know the Robbe F-16 handset was designed for helicopters, so I think I can mix the chanels. Like you say, when you turn the rudder make one motor turn the boat along with the rudder etc. Might have to get the instructions!

Mankster

Your ESC's (yes you will need 2, though they only use up 1 channel) are fine to use with an onboard rudder mixer. I use the one from JJC. Yes you can use the TX's computer mixer as well though you'll need an extra channel and plenty of head scratching to program it

Screw Loose

Over the last couple of nights I have been putting on the control linkages and fixings to the servos etc. Not particularly interesting but it feels at last as if its not going to be the back end of next year before its close to being ready

Pretty much standard control arms, just I have modified the path they take into the inner hull, due to them slogging around too much under load. I think I might modify mine like Mankster has done in his, by putting a sort of strengthening bar under it to give it a bit more support. Especially the forward one on mine, bends a little when the servo is moving.



The only problem was the rudders. Engel use a plate mechanism with 2 ball joints to move the rudders. But the plate has to be filed a little smaller on mine, and the edges removed to make it move a little easyer in the hull. I might remove this mechanism entirely and use a standard control Horn set up.

I have all the control surfaces moving as they should, and since I am waiting on Engel getting back to me about the periscope mechanism, and still wating for 1 speed controller, I have started to finish off the upper hull. I have nearly finished the last of the holes, just a bit of finishing off the vents.



But I forgot to cut out the 3 holes in the deck for the conning tower to sit on, and for the mechanism to go through. I also forgot how thick this hull is, and have went through 3 carbide disks cutting it out. But at least its done. I have ran out of time tonight but will be glueing on the conning tower this week after drilling the holes for the periscope mechanism.

Anyways back to working out this Robbe handset, trying to mix channels for rudders and speed controllers is no small deal on this thing !

subzero

Ah!!! the wonders of modern Technology

Screw Loose

Well I am still waiting on my second speed controller. So the wiring has ground to a halt. I have tested all the systems, tanks, dive plane mechanism and servos and everything works ok.

I recieved a new Robbe 8 CH reciever the other day and got all the servos working, only thing I have done differently is I connected the forward planes up to the rear ones. Basically to cut down on a function on the handset. I have found little use in having independantly controlled planes, its only usefull if the ballast is out a little, but will hopefully sort that out in the test tank.

So its basically down to the uninteresting fillers and sanding off rough edges. Not terribly exciting but needs to be done. I have glued on the conning tower as well. But had to pay particular attention to the holes for the extendable periscopes etc. I fitted the lid on the waterproof container (where they are fixed onto) and placed the lid on the boat. Extended the periscopes and slid the conning tower on top of it. Marked it and glued it in place. Seems to work but sure something will go wrong


The only dishapointing thing is some of the gaps between the lid and the lower hull are rather large. Not the end of the world, I used a bit of twin pack putty (name escapes me here) and smoothed it off with a wet hand and fingers. Normal fillers for the other bits. 24hrs to dry

Now off to watch youtube videos of the real typhoon for some more details.

PS
What paints has anyone out there used on there boats ? I was thinking of plasticote spray enamel ? I have used it before and found its good. Just rather small cans. Think this ones going to use a few

subzero

Milliput ???

I spray all my models with Tamiya Acrylic's with an airbrush , have found them OK then a couple of cotes of Satin or Matt lacquer, works for me.

sub.

Screw Loose

I have just tried to use my airbrush this morning and surprise surprise its not working

Dont know what it is about it but from day one its never been very successful. Looks like its going to be matt black Plasticote after all.

I did mention buying a new one this morning, but I am pushing my luck with my better half as it is. 2 new speed controllers, 1 new reciever, 1 new battery, lots of paint and fillers. The term skint came into the conversation this morning

Screw Loose

Wel I thought I would install the bow thruster this morning. I am using a standard 6V Robbe unit, nothing special. So I carefully measured it and marked the hull where the circular holes needed to be.

Hmm and the holes a little bigger than its supposed to be. So while the fillers are drying I though I would write this.

I am going to encapsulate the motor and the electricals in a heat shrink sleeve. The benefit is its completley watertight and lasts for years. I have fitted the thruster tubes into the hull with P38 car body filler. The benefit of this is its like a bridging compound, so its easy to fill the gaps. Externally I will use standard fillers and scribe the seams as per the origional panels.

Thinking of putting in a stern thruster as well, but might do this at a later date. Will see how it handles in the water first.

Paul