solo

Thanks for the tip Screw Loose

Whilst waiting for the epoxy resin to harden an the wtc bolts decided to start on cutting out the conning tower (big piece to remove here),going well.

solo

Not a lot to show this week its holes holes and more holes.

Screw Loose

Looks like a well finished hull. Think it looks beter than my Typhoon was when I got it !

Great fun isnt it, cutting all those holes out Even better when you trail all the dust in the house and there are no end of complaints

solo

Fitting Prop,dive planes and protector. Lots of filling and shaping to do yet but it's getting there

solo

Spent this week sorting out stern linkages. With little room to get the throw on the rudder linkages had to improvise here.

Its not pretty but it works well and is strong.
Also tried several methods of mounting servo's and decide to epoxy nuts to the board. Again works well.

solo

Help.
I have 2 speed controllers and two motors how do i wire them for independent control. Do i just treat them as two singles on seperate channels. Any help here would be much appreciated as the instructions i have leave a lot to be desired. Also the ballast tanks,can i just fill or empty them the instructions say use a 4 position slider switch (dont have one) I have 6 channels 4 on stick 2 on switches.
Sorry if this seems basic to you all but as a newbie it has lost me.

subzero

Hello Solo, thanks for the build update.

You can do exactly as you have said, plug them in to 2 separate channels, BUT you can purchase a mixing unit which basically plugs into the channel for the speedo and then the rudder channel and you plug the 2 spedos into the mixer, so you will mix both speedos with the rudder and you only use 1 channel on the receiver for the 2 motors ...see ?. when you apply rudder when moving one motor speeds up the other slows to assist in the turn. When stationary one speeds up the other goes into reverse to assist the turn, all very clever and they are not dear to buy mine cost £15 its a MTRONIKS W tail mixer, what speedos have yo got ? MTRONIKS speedos fit directly into this mixer etc.

Hope this assists
Sub

Mankster

Hi Solo. If you purchaced the TAE Kit then you'll need one 3 position switch or one slider (or 1 stick with the the self return spring removed). If you got the TAES kit then you'll need a 4 position switch ( don't exisit AFAIK) or a slider (or one stick with the self return spring removed). Its not really recommended to use a stick to controll a ballast thank though, so I reccomend fitting a slider or upgrading your TX if its not possible to do with the kit you have.

Screw Loose

Hi Solo, as Mankster and Sub have said, I use a Mtroniks mixer with a Robbe handset. I was initially going to use just one speed control but Mankster said the turning circle was too large, so I mixed mine. For the piston tanks I am using a 3 way switch, with a neutral point in the middle. I did consider a slider but since the tanks are either on or off on mine and not proportional it wasnt worth it.

As they said, I turn the rudder left the starboard motor activates and vice versa. Seems to work pretty well.

Paul

solo

Many thanks to you all for your replies i am digesting the info given to me.
I have a futaba 6ex which I am told is not so good for submarines (cant replace it yet Wife thinks I have spent to much already).
I have two Viper marine 20 speed controllers. I believe I can mix channels on the reciever but not sure yet how to do this. I wired the dive tanks this evening and the only control I have is full open and full shut. Its a steep learning curve but with the help of this friendly board I am getting there
Thank you sub this would seem a good solution for me