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Old 05-03-2008   #11 (permalink)
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I remember watching a chap on discovery cutting small brass parts for trains, he used a pantograph , same sort of thing they use for engraving, he made the master 4 times the size and it would cut using a small high speed cutter on the othere end so even very small masters where not a problem.

peter
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Old 06-03-2008   #12 (permalink)
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In reply to Alan's post above,
As for the Dremel, I certainly dont fancy all the strapping ideas fitting the drill into a stand, all that's needed is something that can slot into the stand and then slide out again when needed. I like the look of the Proxxon tools you have posted up too, I have had a check of the website and the attachments are pretty much the same across the range of all these types of power tools...which has got to be good news for us modellers at the end of it all.

I have posted a pic of the B&Q Version which is just under £30 and comes with the stand and flexi drive as shown attached as well as numerous attachments, the stand will also house those attachments for quick and easy access.

I would say one thing, which ever make drill you settle for, the flexi drive is a definite must have, makes precision work so much easier !!

Regards.......Mark.
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Old 06-03-2008   #13 (permalink)
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thanks guys.

One question for Alan. I am very tempted by the CNC option although i can affrod the hardware i am finding the relevant software is working out the same again.

I only have photoshop, i dont have a CAD/CAM software i belive i also need to have some doftware that can convert the CAD image into path instructions for the tool. Is there further software needed? Do you know any good cheap CAD/CAM packages?
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Old 06-03-2008   #14 (permalink)
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As for the cad software I believe that the German CNC conversions come with a copy of PC NC - although I might be wrong.

There's a few issues with CNC...

Basically two different types of machining to make a conponent. If all you need is a small part cut out from styrene sheet, with a few holes drilled etc, and a slot machined for example. You can use something called 2.5D Software. This is basically a 2D Drawing with the various machining steps drawn in various colours, i.e. lines drawn in red are cut using a 2mm endmill, lines in green are machined to a depth of 2mm etc. Parameters can be set for each tool, feedrate, clearance etc. You can also define the order the parts are cut so it drills the holes first and then cuts around it last.

2.5D machining is basically very similar to using a pen plotter, but rather than having different colour pens it uses different toolbits set to cut different depths of cut.

Then there is the setup to make a 3D part, from a complex 3D model created in an advanced 3D software package, like Solidworks or Rhino. These packages are very costly, and also very timeconsuming to use with a steep learning curve. The machining process is very long too, as the tool passes must be very close together to get a good finish.

The first method offers a lot more flexibility as you can normally import dxf, or dwg files from a drawing package, corel draw, macromedia flash, adobe illustrator etc. The software used by the machine will vary, but most if not all will accept the autocad drawing format.

As far as the software, I use Roland 2D Design as that came supplied with my machine and Virtual Modela for machining 3D Stuff.

The software that generates the toolpaths and runs the machine, you can use PC-NC or Mach 3. Artsofts Mach 3 is a low priced but highly capable NC controller suitable for controlling up to 6 axes.

Artsoft
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Old 06-03-2008   #15 (permalink)
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I would recommend also trying thin sheet brass for making hinges. If you cut out a shape with two prongs on the end of a square, you can roll the prongs back using a small pair of needle nose pliers, then use heavy gauge wire for the hing pin. If you look at how a real door hinge is made, you will see what I mean. If you need pictures I can try to throw something together in paint.

Then you can spend your 500 pounds on lager and nuts.
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Old 07-03-2008   #16 (permalink)
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For making small working hinges, I use a piece of K&S Brass flat and solder it to a length of brass tube. If you solder up a reasonable length you can then slice off sections as required with a fine tooth saw and a jig. You'll still need the proxxon grinder to put the screw holes in the hinges though!
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