adzam

can`t wait bud

Phoenix

hope to be reading the next part soon

wonwinglo

Grahame once again some really useful and practical tips here,these scale details make all the difference in the world to a model,your piano hinge looks most convincing.
These are the tasks that really eat up the time but if you enjoy doing them then that is the main thing to improve the end product,the Parnall Elf just has such great character.
I was a bit alarmed last year when Shuttleworth were considering selling her off,she would have vanished Stateside never to be seen again,thankfully someone saw sense and she has been retained at Old Warden.

__________________
'And there I was oil on my goggles from a broken pipe,then I looked at the altimeter,all I could see was the makers name !'
www.wonwinglo.scale-models.net/

Greyhead

No time today, terrible thing having to earn a living, roll on retirement!

Just a photo of the exhaust side of the cowl.



Reading through my last post I realise that I didn’t explain how to ensure a well fitting cowl, wonderful thing hindsight.

First of all make the templates for the formers using the model not the plans, remember to remove 1/16th for the covering, mark the hinge line and partly cut. Then fit the balsa longerons with the assembly in situ using cling film to stop unwanted adhesions, only then fully cut the sections free.

BreizStone

Hello,

Your work is impressive. Your technical solutions are constructive and original.

I'm also at the the bench with a 1/3 Tipsy Junior. It's also a long time project with pauses.

Hope to read you soon on the forum.

Congratulations,

Marc.

Greyhead

The cowl is covered with a combination of litho plate and printer paper. Where there are compound curves use litho but for flat plates printer paper is lighter and easier to stick, it’s also a lot cheaper, if you can’t find a friendly printer. The rivet lines are embossed from the rear using a dressmaker’s pattern copying wheel, the spacing may not be correct but who knows? At least they’re evenly spaced. For individual rivets use an old “Biro”.

The louvers are a simple job on the Elf as they are separate items riveted on. They are made from strips of litho bent to shape and glued through holes cut in the side panels. Don’t be tempted to just stick them on the outside; they’ll look terrible and won’t help to keep your precious engine cool! The secret is to mark out all the holes, cut the first hole and glue the louver in before cutting the next hole. This maintains the curvature of the panel. I also strengthened the strips between the louvers with a few carbon fibre tows but this is not really necessary, it was just a bit of “belt and braces”.

The exhaust is from paper rolled around a felt tip pen. Use medium cyano and then roll the pen on the workbench adding more glue as needed. I use kitchen foil, as it appears to be about the only thing cyano won’t bond to, to stop the lot sticking to the pen. Coating with a mixture of 30min. epoxy and micro balloons produces the pitted surface if you keep dabbing it with a “suitable implement” for the first few minutes as it cures.

The “suitable implement” I used was my finger but I’m sure the Health and Safety establishment would tell me I’m storing up all manner of ills for the future, so the choice is yours!

duncan

Exhaust is superb ! I thought you had welded-up a miniature metal one and then put it out in the rain for a couple of years. Cant wait to see the Albatros.

Greyhead

The twin air scoops are made from litho and really help the cooling by directing air down over the rocker box onto the cylinder block. The other bits and pieces use litho, copper wire, brass tube and washers.

You get a good view of the cabane struts with a coat of paint in this view and can just about make out the carbon fibre "tongues" that lock the wings in place.

The Elf logo was printed onto self adhesive white paper, once again after a bit of manipulation using Photoshop.



The fasteners are not functional, the sides are held in place by magnets, very useful items these, they also hold the luggage hatch and the rear section of the lower wings which fold down to allow the main wings to fold back. There’s a thread about them on the site, they are still available from Maplin and in fact I’ve just bought a new supply today. I prefer the ones originally designed to be used as electrical connectors, they are in a metal holder with a stiff wire attached; this helps with the positioning.

Code: N51AK
Description: Magtrix Connectors
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Phoenix

good posting dude

Glider Guider

The inkjet vinyl for making the logos is available from Overlander Batteries and comes in clear or white and costs £9.00 for between 8 and 10 sheets depending on the specification. On the white film I get good results using the 'Photo Quality Glossy Film' setting on my Epson printer but beware it can take a quite a while to dry so be careful not to smudge it. I have not tried clear film.