1/35 Valentine Bridgelayer - a FDM print.

Dave Ward

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It's taken a time to complete the print of this! I bought the files at the beginning of August
DSCF4601.JPG
The bridge parts will be treated as a separate model/ The part I had difficulty with was the 'A' frame. bottom left - I eventually succeeded at the 7th attempt. It was a matter of finding the correct orientation for giving the best detail with supports that could be removed without breaking the part!
For some reason, I thought that the bridge was deployed using hydraulics, but it is actually screw driven.. The giant gearbox ( bottom middle ) pushed the threaded rod backwards & forwards. pivoting the 'A' frame about the front glacis plate. I still haven't worked out how the bridge is unfolded, I suspect cables!
Instructions?
assembly.jpg

That's it - I haven't printed the small pins, I'll make those with something a bit stronger. The illustrated model is slightly different, it has separate 'fenders', whilst mine has them incorporated. The parts needed varying degrees of clean up, from minimal ( tracks ) to tedious ( gearbox ) Now it's a matter of using the CA to get the bits to stay together.........................
Dave
 

Dave Ward

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After a few minutes work withe the Loctite & the Kicker.................
DSCF4602.JPGDSCF4603.JPGDSCF4604.JPG
Theres's one more piece to add to this - the drum wheels - at the front on the instruction sheet ( previous post ). Not sure whether these should go on the bridge, or the tank - I'll have to have a ponder on this...............
Dave
 

Dave Ward

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Well, a long gap in posting - I had a lot of trouble cleaning up the bridge sections - I ended up printing them again & even then managed to break one!!
DSCF4620.JPG
The underside is really horrible - but only had to clear up the open ends, the rest is invisible.................
DSCF4621.JPG
I was thinkng I was on the home stretch, but I broke the front wheel assembly ( the bit that the forks fit over )
DSCF4622.JPG
DSCF4623.JPG
Printing another out now - at least I've an unlimited source of spare parts. I was asked if it was possible to make the bridge workable. My answer is, absolutey not! You could do it deployed, but even in a static position of it half-deployed would involve a lot of work. Some masochist might do it, but not me!
It will be along time before I print out something that needs more clean up than these bridge spans - just because it printed OK doesn't mean that it is immediately usable!
Dave
 

Graeme C.

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Looks an interesting one Dave, what scale is it?
 

David Lovell

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Really great intresting stuff looking in from the outside ,im assuming that by blowing up the scale it makes it easier to print/obtain better detail but in smaller scale ,please don't take this wrong I understand that your kinda working with more entry level printers and not something you'd have to mortgage your home for but if you printed the same model in 1/56 would it be less chonkey so to speak less of the rows of knitting? As I said not to be taken wrong just trying to be more with what you do ,personally love the way you've grasped it with both hands and taken a diffrent fork in the road. Dave
 

Dave Ward

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Really great intresting stuff looking in from the outside ,im assuming that by blowing up the scale it makes it easier to print/obtain better detail but in smaller scale ,please don't take this wrong I understand that your kinda working with more entry level printers and not something you'd have to mortgage your home for but if you printed the same model in 1/56 would it be less chonkey so to speak less of the rows of knitting? As I said not to be taken wrong just trying to be more with what you do ,personally love the way you've grasped it with both hands and taken a diffrent fork in the road. Dave
David,
It's the limitations of FDM printing that decide how a print may look. The detail may be present in the .stl computer file, but the printer may not be physically capable of doing it. The standard nozzle size is 0.4mm dia, so that really sets the resoulution. You can change the nozzle size, but that introduces a new layer of complications.
If a model is designed to be printed at say 1/100, then certain features will have to be modifies, so they will actually print - for example tank gun barrels - will be enlarged. If you alter the scale - blow it up - then thesr features will look chunkier - in cases where I blow up from 1/56 to 1/35, then this may not be too glaring, but going from 1/100 to 1/35 will look odd! Each model has to be looked at on it's own merit. What may look OK on the computer, may not print at all well!
It depends on the computer model files, but this will be the same for resin printing as well. A model designed for resin printing is generally not viable for FDM printing. I would love a resin printer, but I don't have facilities to cope with the toxic fumes, chemicals etc, at least if I expect to live in my flat as well!
Dave
 

David Lovell

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David,
It's the limitations of FDM printing that decide how a print may look. The detail may be present in the .stl computer file, but the printer may not be physically capable of doing it. The standard nozzle size is 0.4mm dia, so that really sets the resoulution. You can change the nozzle size, but that introduces a new layer of complications.
If a model is designed to be printed at say 1/100, then certain features will have to be modifies, so they will actually print - for example tank gun barrels - will be enlarged. If you alter the scale - blow it up - then thesr features will look chunkier - in cases where I blow up from 1/56 to 1/35, then this may not be too glaring, but going from 1/100 to 1/35 will look odd! Each model has to be looked at on it's own merit. What may look OK on the computer, may not print at all well!
It depends on the computer model files, but this will be the same for resin printing as well. A model designed for resin printing is generally not viable for FDM printing. I would love a resin printer, but I don't have facilities to cope with the toxic fumes, chemicals etc, at least if I expect to live in my flat as well!
Dave
Thanks Dave I find it it fascinating (although over my head)as I said love reading your updates please keep them coming. Dave
 

Dave Ward

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I finally managed to print off the final part - I've assembled the bridge, substituting metal pins for the printed parts
DSCF4625.JPG
The bridge isn't fastened to the chassis, yet - so I can prime a bit more easily.- I have quite a few models to go under the airbrush, so I might leave this until the weekend............... ( other models waiting, Churchill, Matilda I, Guy Armoured Car, Vickers Light tank Mk.II, universal mortar carrier, Bison, Terrapin - all 1/35 )
Next pictures will be in the completed section..............
Dave
 

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Well, a long gap in posting - I had a lot of trouble cleaning up the bridge sections - I ended up printing them again & even then managed to break one!!
View attachment 490813
The underside is really horrible - but only had to clear up the open ends, the rest is invisible.................
View attachment 490814
I was thinkng I was on the home stretch, but I broke the front wheel assembly ( the bit that the forks fit over )
View attachment 490815
View attachment 490816
Printing another out now - at least I've an unlimited source of spare parts. I was asked if it was possible to make the bridge workable. My answer is, absolutey not! You could do it deployed, but even in a static position of it half-deployed would involve a lot of work. Some masochist might do it, but not me!
It will be along time before I print out something that needs more clean up than these bridge spans - just because it printed OK doesn't mean that it is immediately usable!
Dave
Don't look at me, I have done my share of bridge building...
 

Scratchbuilder

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Dave, Well done on the final print, at least you now have something the main manufacturers have not flooded the market with and in some repects takes us older modellers back to the days of actually scratchbuilding what we wanted.
Looking forward to the painted model.
Mike.
 
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