1/35 Workshop diorama / display base

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I figured I'd have a go at building a mini workshop since I've spent all of my working life in & around them. Initially I'll use it to display the Sd.Kfz. 247 that I've nearly finished, but it should come in useful as a backdrop for future models, hence the separate blog.

This was the initial mock up to get an idea of sizing. Looking at it now it's probably a bit small for some larger vehicles, but I could always extend it if needed. There'll be a bit of outside space for the usual junk dumped outside these places, and a tiny bit of water in the back corner for practice / something else to look at.

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I'll be using a lot of the accessories from this kit. Some very tiny & fiddly parts are included but they ought to add to the realism when scattered about.

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I started with one of the larger pieces to give me a size/scale reference - the workbench. It's quite nicely moulded OOB but I chopped one of the drawer fronts off to make some innards, so that it could be displayed open

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And here it is with some of the other items I've started putting together. I'm not sure how many of them I'll use, but if they are all built I can swap them around for future "photo shoots"

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I've also made a tentative start on the walls. I've never used foamboard before so a huge thanks to John Race for holding my hand and giving me plenty of helpful advice. I'm still the one making the cuts though, which is where it all goes a bit pear shaped :smiling5:

I'm planning to peel the paper off the foam and carve some brick or block detail into them. John suggested it would be a good idea to laminate two boards together for this, as otherwise the board could bend. With some very careful measuring I managed to get all four wall pieces cut accurately (2 walls, inner and outer face for each) but my first attempt at cutting out for windows and doors didn't go quite so well.

I tried temporarily sticking the two boards together and cutting through both in one go, but didn't account for how much my blade would splay off vertical. This meant that by the time I'd cut right through to the outside things were way off line. I certainly won't be making that mistake again.

I'm happy with the insides for a first attempt

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But the outside is another story. It doesn't look as bad in the pictures as real life due to camera angles and a bit of sanding to try and rescue it, but you can see above the door just how much offline I'd started to cut.

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I could fudge the part above the door with some kind of visible lintel, and the fact that it angles out so much isn't noticeable on the pics but could be disguised by a door posed ajar. However, I think I might just take these as practice pieces, and cut a couple more walls. I've got to start somewhere, but at least I've popped my cherry and already learned something :smiling3:
 

Jim R

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Hi Andy
I'll follow this with interest. Always good to try something a bit different.
Jim
 
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Thanks Jim.

There'll be lots of trial & error along the way, and I'd almost decided not to do a build log just in case it all went Pete Tong, but in for a penny and all that :smiling3:
 

therapy

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Should make for a nice 'photo studio' for you builds Andy. I'm sure you'll do it justice as always..


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Neil Merryweather

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Great idea, Andy, I love it. When working with foamboard start with a new blade, cut through the top layer of card first,then the foam, then the bottom layer of card. You'll get the hang of it, I'm sure
 
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Thanks Nick, I'll try my best.

Cheers Neil. I think trying to cut through the whole lot at once was my biggest mistake, especially with it being double layered. I'll try that approach and see how it goes, thanks.
 

adt70hk

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Andy, looking good already!

ATB.

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Tim Marlow

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Looks good Andy. Should be a real assestwhen you finish it.
The thing with cutting foam board I have found is to keep the knife angle shallow so it doesn’t grab the foam core. Cutting out window opening is sometimes better if you some material out of the middle first. This allows the waste material to deform inwards when you are making the final accurate cuts. I always cut away from the corners as well, so I don’t cut into the material to be kept.
 
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Thanks Andrew & Tim. The shallow angle I'm already using, but will have a go at cutting some of the bulk out first, thanks.

I've cut two more windows into the other wall and still can't get the blade to track vertically, just need to keep practising!

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Would be fine if I were going for this kind of thing :smiling5:

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Rome wasn't built in a day they keep saying. I was going to subtitle this topic as "fumbling about with foamboard" but didn't want to rock the boat. Would be appropriate though at the moment.
 
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Looking great so far Andy and it seems like a steep learning curve with foamboard, something I have never used yet so looking to pick up some tips here.

Andy.
 
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Thanks Andy, although I'm not sure about picking up tips lol.

This is more of a "how not to" at the minute :smiling5:
 

Neil Merryweather

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Don't sweat it Andy. I have worked with foamboard in my job for over 30 years and there are only a few people I know who can get a 90 degree cut! Light pressure is the key, and lots of room so that you can move your whole arm rather than just your hand or wrist.
 
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Neil Merryweather

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Don't sweat it Andy. I have worked with foamboard in my job for over 30 years and there are only a few people I know who can get a 90 degree cut! Light pressure is the key, and lots of room so that you can move your whole arm rather than just your hand or wrist.
And always cut towards you, unlike we were told as children!
 
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Thanks Neil. I'm prepared for it taking me a good while to get into the swing of it. For my whole life if I wasn't instantly good at something I'd just give it up, but this modelling lark has taught me a whole new approach!

As for having plenty of room, I think I'm going to try some cuts standing up. It's the way I do my job so is much more natural than sitting down. In fact the vast majority of my airbrushing is done standing as I'm used to moving my whole body. Worth a crack!
 
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Neil Merryweather

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Thanks Neil. I'm prepared for it taking me a good while to get into the swing of it. For my whole life if I wasn't instantly good at something I'd just give it up, but this modelling lark has taught me a whole new approach!

As for having plenty of room, I think I'm going to try some cuts standing up. It's the way I do my job so is much more natural than sitting down. In fact the vast majority of my airbrushing is done standing as I'm used to moving my whole body. Worth a crack!
I was cutting some this afternoon and I realized that it makes a difference :cool:
 
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Standing up, I mean
It seems like it does for me too! It's still early days but I definitely managed to get the cuts more square when standing.

I re-cut the doorway and added a frame from lolly sticks. Still not perfect but I'm loads happier with it.

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Then on the side wall I started scribing in the blockwork on the inside. The outside will be rendered but with the odd missing bit here & there. I made a few mistakes so there are some "damaged" blocks now too...

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And cut the card from the inner face of the outer wall to rebate in some clear plastic. Hopefully once the two layers are stuck together and a frame made on both sides it'll look ok and save me having to cut the glazing accurately.

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JR

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Nice Andy, I like the block work .
 
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Plodding along with this. I'm learning as I go, which is the whole idea of the exercise. As long as I'm picking up the basic techniques I'm not bothered if it's a bit rough & ready, I'll hopefully get better with time.

I scored the blockwork on the rear wall, which was going ok until my ruler slipped, then stippled a PVA/grout/sand mixture over the outside to try and get a rendered type look. Once dry the whole lot had a thinned coat of grey as base to start me off

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After a second (but not final) coat I tried them in place, with the raised walkway and steps.

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I wanted as few seams as possible on the walkway so bevelled away the foam on the inside so I could bend it and leave the outer paper intact

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Now they've seen some paint the walls have bowed considerably, so I took the plunge and laminated the two leafs together and I'll leave them overnight under plenty of weight, hoping it'll sort them out.

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